Shifter is part of the vehicle immobilizer, so yes it is fairly important. No communication, no shifting or even no start.

Yes it will need programming...unfortunately only dealer and licensed locksmith can get new shifter ($$$), programming a used one is a crapshoot. 90% of the time it won't work (most of the shifters for sale are original, not replacement...but that's a discussion for another time) and the 10% of the time it does work the guy doing the programming needs to know what he's doing.

Other option is to get the ECU/EIS/key/shifter combo from another W220 and try that.

Either way you're spending at least $500, if not more. Dealer usually charges $900-1200, who knows how much a licensed locksmith charges.

EDIT: didn't see you were in south america. Guess your options are a lot more limited than ours?

You could get a shifter from another car and swap over the black box, but if the problem lies with the black box inside the shifter, you still need a new shifter.

 

Thank you very much DEPLORE for your quick reply on it. In deed here in Chile spare parts are little complicated to get due models and availability.

I was suggested to replace it for a used part which will be effected on next week and I aready found it in Paraguay (been there a lot) and I could get that used one for US$ 470 and hopefully works out. A brand new part must be very expensive and expert locksmith in here could be hard to get.

I was told no need for reprogramming (used part) but I will take your word for it. Once I solve this out, will place a review here...any additional ideas...welcome to hear it.

When you mean a second option (ECU/shifter, etc.), you mean some like this?: https://www.ebay.com/itm/00-03-MERC...ter/152676398538?epid=1011274383&hash=item238c38f5ca:g:kcoAAOSwQWlZnxYe&vxp=mtr

Still needs programming this option?

And scanner cannot tell if problem is in the black box or not??

Thank you and looking forward.

 

Yes, like that ebay listing.

No, a used one won't work. The shifter is part of the vehicle immobilizer security, programming a used one is very difficult. You need to find someone with the know how. This isnt the older S classes where you could just swap shifters willy nilly and everything would be horky dorky.

If you buy a complete set, no programming needed. Plug and play.

And given that in your first post you said the scanner said "ESM - Electronic Selector Module failure" -- that's pretty conclusive proof that the black box has gone bad.

 

I have a work around. See my post under "gear shift selector implausible" if your car starts you can use a used shifter without any issue. If you have a different shifter with a module that won't start your car I can help. I dont want to give out my email to the public but would welcome mods or admins to contact me through my email. I have no intention of profit. I will freely give my work around. It costs $10 in parts if you have a used shifter with a good module. (The car must start with your old shifter installed) You need too be able to understand basic wiring diagrams also, which i will provide.

 

Can you email me the specs @ betin242@gmail.com

 

Can you just post the workaround so we can add it to the encyclopedia

 

Yes I plan to today. I also may do video showing how to do it. Not sure aboutt the forum rules regarding links. That is only reason for admin/mod comment in my previous post.Z

 

Copied From Thread "Transmission Issues" :-

Hi, @Deathknell

Hmmmm, s/h Shifter ............

I can think of a very good reason why that will not work, so now you have got me very, very curious and interested, sometimes the simplest of work arounds escape me as I over think things

I would be quite happy for you to post up your work around here, but if you really don't want to then please can you EMail it to me at footerbare@btinternet.com

Much appreciated,

Cheers Dave

 

I think I know this workaround... you buy used shifter, and you swap the black electronic box from one shifter to another. So technically you're using the hardware shifter from another car, but using original electronics of your own car.

But he mentioned wiring diagram....so my guess is removing the black electronic box from your original shifter, and plug it in, but set it aside. Then soldering wires on the PCB of the replacement shifter for the shifter position, since the actual sensor is inside the black electronic box. Who knows.

 

I think I know this workaround... you buy used shifter, and you swap the black electronic box from one shifter to another. So technically you're using the hardware shifter from another car, but using original electronics of your own car.

But he mentioned wiring diagram....so my guess is removing the black electronic box from your original shifter, and plug it in, but set it aside. Then soldering wires on the PCB of the replacement shifter for the shifter position, since the actual sensor is inside the black electronic box. Who knows.

Hi,

@Deplore

I wondered how long before you saw this :devil
I was going to discuss it with you :wink

That is my guess, along those very same lines.............

Use the Immo part of the original "Black Box" and the "Shift Position" part of the "New Black Box"...............

Now, I'm gonna "go out on a limb" here, as I haven't even looked at a Wiring Diagram, but I believe the Immo info gets transmitted via CAN Bus, does the PRND and Tiptronic + / - Signals not also transmit over the Powertrain (same) CAN ??

If so, I'm guessing that's where the "fooling" Circuitry would come into play, otherwise there would be conflict

If PRND and Tiptronic + / - is analogue like a lot of other, ("lesser" :grin), Cars then it will be real easy :dunno:

Cheers Dave

 

Hi again,

Thanks for taking the time to do this, I'm pretty sure links will be fine, providing they're not advertising, porn, racist etc etc :wink

OK, so now I've said that /\ /\ I'll take the heat if I got it wrong :devil

I am quite happy for you to post it all here, if you can, try and get as much of it without links, in this Thread, and then it will make my life easier to compile it all into our Encyclopaedia :wink

Cheers Dave

 

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=2338970&stc=1&d=1513952979

this is the gear selector diagram. Plug in your shifter normally. (the one that won't start the car)
splice the green/wht the green and the brown wires so your old module is connected along with the new module. (mounted on shifter) now the red/yellow wire must go to both modules also, but the wire you splice into the old module has to be on switch. the ecm needs to see this module to start. After the car starts power (red/yellow wire) needs to be switched off to the old module. I have done this on 2 S-430s. You can use a toggle switch or you can hook into the purple 10 gauge wire in the passenger side under hood fuse block. Check the purple wire with a test light to be sure it has power ONLY while cranking. I used the purple wire method and it works great. I haven't used a toggle switch but it is the same concept. The other way is to use a timer. The one I used I got from Geri tech. It is a 12V delay relay turn on/turn off module. You can get them on Amazon. The model is FC-32. The timer I set turn off after 40 seconds.

 

The tiptronics are on the can/bus. the thing with can/bus is that it is proprietary so the ecm only sees what it needs. there is no limit to the number of nodes that can run on the bus.

 

I hadn't even thought of that /\ /\ /\ it makes perfect sense actually :wink

For me it would have to be "purple wire method" every time, Car must work exactly as designed, so no switch or timers :wink

I'm glad I didn't bin my old shifter, because that works perfectly, but became redundant after an EIS fault, which I cured by replacing the 4 piece "Theft Relevant" Set :wink.

Next time I get a W220 or C215 with a Shifter Position issue I'll give that a go, seems to me it will work ok :grin

Thank you for sharing this with us, stick around, I'm sure you could be very helpful on benzworld :smile

Now................... :devil

How's your knowledge on 2 Stage Turbo'd OM646 and OM651 CDI Engines :devil
..................................................................................................... :devil

Cheers Dave

 

the ecm only needs to see the original module for a couple seconds. the reason I like the timer is because if the car fails to start for whatever reason you can turn the key off and try again. with the purple wire method if you get a no start then you have to unplug or turn off the new module.
I only had it happen once but that is why I decided on the timer. The first car is in my shop now and just installed timer in it for peace of mind. (the customers and mine)

 

toggling power between the two is fool proof. The timer method does the same thing only no switch to mess with.
Will post how to set and wire timer for anyone that's interested.

 

here is the timer the black wire is attached to the modules ground. The red wire on the left goes to the yellow and red wire and also goes to other side of timer. the screw above that is where you hook the yellow and red wire going to the old module. (only to the old module not both!)
I have this set to turn off power to the old module after 4 seconds. notice how the jumpers labeled S-1 S-2 are postitioned (top of photo) at the bottom only S-6 is jumpered. This set timer from 4.4 seconds to 42 seconds. (adjustable with the screw in blue square. bottom left.) counter clockwise is less and vice versa.

 

May be the NC powers the old one and NO powers the new one? Bcasically the relay can be considered as a toggle.

This concept also proved that the ecm only need DAS at starting but not constinuesly supervised by DAS.

 

Is it difficult to transfer the shifter electronics from a donor to the old one ?

It seems to be a problem of gear recognition / implausibility rather than a CANbus error. This can be verified by knowing the exact 3 digit codes that pop up from the ETC/TCU. I believe this is the module that reports the problem.

Are there any OBD codes (P7XX series) ?. It could be a problem with the R/P solenoid control issue, if you cannot put the car in reverse or Park, and a key reset remedies it.

 

The problem is that the shifter electronics on the W220 contains the immobilizer chips -- but it also contains the gear range sensor as well. And this gear range sensor is really three different hall sensors, but they're quite fragile...just the heat from a soldering iron is enough to damage them.

 

I had the issue, below.
I tried the Ebay / used part route, but that didn't work; according to the Mercedes dealer; the parts are tied to the VIN number and cannot be re-programmed.
I then removed the the center console (Torx 27, Torx 20 a Phillips head screwdriver, and 45 mins) is all it takes.
I then drove to the dealer, let him replace and program a new shifter module, and put the center console back together myself.
total cost: 1,100 for the part
300 programming and and labor
Saved: $1,000.00 in labor just by taking the center console out.

P1856 Selector Lever Position Detection Has Failed
Electronic Selector Module eplace the floor mounted shift module"
220-267-33-24 Transmission Shifter Module
P240c
The CAN signal for the selector lever position from component N15/5
(electronic selector lever module control module) is implausible

also check the fuse for power and see if its blown, the fuse is located passenger side of engine bay fuse 37, it also powers the trans module

 

according to the Mercedes dealer; the parts are tied to the VIN number and cannot be re-programmed.

That is incorrect information, that should read that Mercedes cannot and are not allowed by MB to virginise / reprogram the Theft Relevant Parts, there are plenty of specialists who do this all day long with used parts

Thread now closed.