Also, does anyone have a link or PDF of the options sheets for the 2013 E-Class for Canada?

A lot of dealers are advertizing "leather seats" and when I pull the data cards using VIN's it's the man-made stuff.

Does one or the other hold up better over time? Is the quality/feel noticeable?

 

You are not trying to start another diesel v/s gasser debate?
The truth is that most of the owners, once they drive good diesel - will never buy gasoline car anymore.
Best sample is W210, where originally in 1998 diesel option was the cheapest one and $15k cheaper than AMG model. Now take today's prices of E300DT and E55 AMG from those years.
The AMG models with ca 200k miles have the value of tires on them
That said, "good diesel" become questionable term and the OM642 (?) engine you are considering is high-maintenance engine, with weak oil cooler seals, intake flaps that require cleaning before 200,000 miles and with complexity of the engine, it is top end DIY item.
When it comes to seats - I would not sweat it either way.
I actually prefer vinyl as it usually last 30 years with no problem, when leather will need few replacement in the time.
Lately MB makes combination when center of the seat is leather (for advertising purpose) and sides vinyl for long-lasting. Point is that even experts have hard time to tell the difference.
Good luck on your search.

 

E350 is going to be the most reliable but might not last as long as the diesel. I get 30+ mpg on long trips in my E350. I have a diesel ML and wouldn't buy one again unless it was a super deal.

 

So all bluefficiencies are all Diesels? I thought it was only bluetecs?

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Those are marketing names, so take them with a grain of salt.
I did hear that gasers can be bluefficient as well, but have never seen one.
The principle is, that beside more efficient engine, the cars have ECO stops, regenerative charging and few other gizmos.
When they help to gain minimal % on mpg- they are additional maintenance items.
Lot of drivers don't like ECO stops and shut the feature off.

 

Okay that's good if you can shut that off. The car I'm looking for according to the data card is an E300 4matic blue efficiency.

I like both diesels and gas engines they each have their pros and cons. Would never want to start anyting on here.

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Bluetech is Diesel. Blue Efficiency is a marketing term basically for the direct injection.

 

Google is your friend
https://emercedesbenz.com/autos/mer...mercedes-benz/e-class/the-2010-mercedes-benz-e-class-blueefficiency-technology/

 

I did plenty of Googling and did run across that article before. Thanks for that anyway.

I came to the conclusion that blue efficiency is a group of different Technologies that can be applied to both gas and Diesel.

Blutec is Diesel only.

The reason I started the thread is because I came across two vehicles nearly identical and the one with blue efficiency was about $4000 higher value according to CarGurus. They were actually selling for similar price so I wanted to know what's up.

Was the blue efficiency really that much more when buying new?

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Don't know about blueeficiency, but OM651 diesels were sold in US as bluetec only.
The 2012 models of OM642 were sold as bluetec in E class, but as cdi in ML class, but that's the only exception I know.
Meaning you never had bluetec and non-bluetec from the same year to compare.

 

That makes sense.

I was comparing two E300 4-Matics, one with and one without Blueefficiency.

From what I understand now, Blueefficiency can come in gas and diesels:

From https://media.daimler.com/marsMedia...ns-package-of-measures-for-efficient-environmental-protection.xhtml?oid=9361730

erodynamics: controllable fan shutter behind the radiator
Energy management: on-demand control of the ancillary components
Alternator control: conversion of braking energy
ECO start/stop function: switches off the idling engine to save fuel
Cockpit display: information for energy-saving driving

 

When you use your car for commute- fuel savings are not your priority, but we often do sightseeing and it gets exciting, how much modulating your right foot can change fuel economy. After cold engine starts first mile with mpg in 20's later on it can get excited to see it climbing to 35mpg, 40 mpg and 50 mpg.

 

The average MPG on my 2010 E350 4Matic has been 22.78mpg, highest 26.6mpg, lowest 15.6mpg. That's over the course of 55 fuel ups, probably a 60:40 mix of highway and town driving. I've got 70k miles on the car. I've dealt with 2 oil leaks* (currently working on one of those in another thread here), the AC system drain getting clogged, and one power lock failure in the 25k miles I've owned the car. Nothing that would leave you on the side of the road, but it's definitely been more temperamental than the 2009 Toyota Yaris it replaced (one MAF sensor failure in 110k miles I owned that car was the only issue). Mostly fiddly stuff that seems due more to the complexity of the car than design flaws.

Basic maintenance on the E350 is really easy. Oil changes, spark plugs, that sort of thing are a snap. Other work that requires getting under the car can be a pain, since they're too low for ramps and it can be a bit of a pain to put the car on jack stands without risking damage to the body or undercarriage. Not a lot of room to work in the engine bay. I don't have a lot of experience with other modern cars so they may all be that way. My 87 W201 (300k+ miles) and 86 Nissan D21 (272k miles) are a ton easier to do major service on.

The only modern Mercedes diesel I have experience with was a 2015 GLK owned by a coworker. It was fine for the first 175k miles or so then became problematic, she spent several thousand dollars a year in repairs on it between the 175 and 215k mile marks. We don't work together anymore so I'm not sure if it has gotten any better. It left her stranded on the side of the road at least 2 times.

I'm a huge fan of the OM602 and OM617 but I don't know how much experience with those translates to the modern engines. More of an 80s man myself

* this has been corrected below, but it was in fact 1 oil leak and one coolant leak, not 2 oil leaks. More details in post #16.

 

Maybe for the sake of convenience you can mention here where your two oil leaks are. Will keep an eye out on the cars I look at.

 

Actually I looked back through my records and I was wrong. The first leak I had was coolant, not oil. It was caused by a faulty coolant tank lid. Replacing the lid resolved that problem. The second leak is oil, coming from the vacuum pump on the back left side of the engine.