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DIY Balance Shaft replacement project 2006 E350 (M272 engine W211 chasis)

15K views 26 replies 6 participants last post by  cgrutt  
#1 ·
Hi new member here about to tackle balance shaft replacement on my wife's 2006 E350. Figured I'd join forum hopefully for some good advice (which I've already received :)) and to post progress hopefully others can benefit in future. I'm not a professional mechanic but consider myself pretty handy and have a lot of good tools that I've been collecting over a lifetime. Also have a good friend who likewise is not a professional mechanic but also very handy with this stuff. Been watching youtube videos over past several months and reading as much as I can from forums about this and think I have a pretty good handle on the project that lies ahead. Of course, I realize from past experience that it's never as easy as it seems on "paper" but hopefully will get through it with wife's car in better shape than it is now.

Purchased new in 2006 and currently has about 177K miles. It's been a great car overall and only had a few significant problems... fuel pump went while it was fairly new, fuel tank was replaced by dealer under warranty, I replaced intake manifold, had a drive shaft come apart, which unfortunately set off most of the airbags, and now, the dreaded balance shaft, which is by far the most serious of the issues to date. Unfortunately past several years has been really difficult for us financially and we need to keep this car running. I'll be tackling the air bags after balance shaft is resolved...

Confirmed VIN falls within affected range, timing marks are off under hall sensors and currently generating P0016 and P0017 generic codes that come immediately back after reset.

So far I've just ordered parts and a few tools for the project. Parts were just under $1,750 and tools were about $350. I think I'm set with all the tools needed for project but will have to improvise a couple things where I just can't justify cost of specialty tool (e.g., removing camshaft pins). I also need to purchase a scanner that can handle resetting the adaptations and teach-in process but still holding off on that purchase (mostly due to lack of discretionary funds at the moment). Think I've settled on an Autel MP808, which is about $750 and supposedly can handle what's needed for this project. I'm hoping it will also allow me to reset airbags when those are replaced and provide a good tool for future projects on this and my other vehicles (currently a 2007 Ford F150).

Here is what I've ordered to date:

Balance shaft kit including, adjuster magnets, timing chain tensioner, pulse wheels, oil filter cartridges, rear crank flange/seal and front crank seal, and various gaskets and seals
Timing chain and guides
Oil pump, chain and guide (no issues currently but figured better to replace now)
Water pump, thermostat housing and thermostat (also no current issues)
Gasket set (heads, intake and exhaust manifolds, and valve seals)
Head bolts
Serpentine belt
Crankcase position sensor
Crankcase breather cap
300 ml Loctite 5970 flange sealant

Above parts approximately $1,750 shipped. Still need to purchase all of the fluids (oil, antifreeze, power steering, etc)

Tools:

Timing chain kit (separator and rivet kit) -- Chinese knockoff approx $105 before tax
OTC master Torx set (including e-torx, torx, torx plus and tamper proof torx sockets) -- approx $75 before tax
CDI (Snap-on Industrial) 1/2 Torque wrench (20 to 250 ft lbs +/- 4% CW) -- approx $150 before tax

Still need Scanner:

Autel MP808 (currently considering) -- approx $750 before tax.

Will post pic and write up of timing chain set next...
 
#2 ·
Timing chain kit. I labeled the parts to help me make sense of it.

A - Separating tool, Pressure screws and extra pressure pins (3mm and 4mm)
B - Rivet press tool, and mounting kit 1 parts (die and centering fork)
C - Mounting kit 2 parts (dies (3mm and 4mm))
D - Chain link (3mm and 4mm), outer plate and safety clasp (in bag)

Image


Note Final torque spec on new chain rivet 32 Nm.
 
#4 · (Edited)
Thanks I'll look into it. Hard to believe that does the required clearing of adaptation codes, teach-in process after engine replacement and adaptation of camshaft position process. I already have an inexpensive scanner that can clear generic codes. Or are you saying these processes aren't actually needed and control module will relearn adaptations on its own? That would be awesome! Thanks again.

ETA: Looked up technical specs for this and it only supports generic DTC codes on Mercedes and does not support any coding. Don't believe this product will handle what I need scanner to do for this job. Thanks anyway.
 
#5 ·
What’s your plan to remove then torque the crank pulley? I’m not familiar with the M272 but most MB engines take a modestly priced tool that attaches to the oil pan or starter opening to hold the ring gear from turning.


Optionally, some take a pricier tool that holds the pulley itself.


Not recommendations, just examples.

Sixto
05 E320 wagon 186K miles
 
#6 ·
Thanks for the heads up! I've been planning to basically follow following procedure outlined in video below which now appears to pass over that small detail, lol...


Will look into special tools above or consider alternative methods (e.g., possibly strap pulley and have my buddy hold it with crow bar? ... just thinking outloud). Also see I missed special tool for rear seal I'll look into that as well. Appreciate the head's up.
 
#8 ·
So received most of the parts. Ordered from autohausaz.com. Everything was received timely and appears to be in good order. Still waiting for the Loctite 5970 sealant , and complete gasket set and new head bolts. I'm not sure if we're going to remove heads yet but wanted to have parts on hand in case we do. Decided to start project next Tuesday. Stay tuned!
 
#9 ·
So passed a Snap-on truck this afternoon pulled a U-turn and caught up to him. Waved to guy as I passed then pulled ahead of him and tapped my brakes a few times. Pulled over at a rest area and he followed me in. They must get that alot lol. Anyway he happened to have a 1/4" E12 universal socket on the truck. Surprised as its somewhat of a specialty item. Anyway was worried about clearance for a few of the bolts inside head into timing cover this should handle it...

Image
 
#10 ·
Made a "slide hammer" for the chain guide pins using a 3lb scap piece of bronze bearing stock I had lying around and a few pieces of black pipe. Can anyone confirm that thread size on these pins (part no. 1660520074) is M6x1.0? If not I'll have to run out for some other bolts. Thanks.

Image
 
#11 ·
Found a rear main seal tool that was used once by another DIYer on another 2006 E-350. He said it worked perfectly. I looked up part number on Kommen website but was unable to track it down. It looks identical to the Baum tool and am assuming it is a knock-off. Either way hopefully will only need to use this once so not that concerned about it especially knowing it was already used on another M272.

Image


Spoke with the guy and he gave me alot of useful tips. He only used a generic scan tool to clear the CEL and it seemed to work fine. No resetting adaptations or relearning cam position, etc. Assuming computer did the relearning process automatically after driving it. He also said the tranny was bucking after the job was completed. He reset with manual procedure involving the car key and gas pedal. I feel much better after speaking to somebody who has recently gone through this.
 
#12 ·
So been at this for two weeks. Ran into issue with differential running through upper oil pan set us back a few days. Anyway got that straightened out...

So we got it all back together wheels on the ground. Started it up running pretty bad but running nonetheless. We checked and rechecked everything putting it back together fairly confident nothing wrong mechanically. Throwing three codes P0300 P0304 and P0306 generic misfire, misfire cylinder 4 and misfire cylinder 6. Thinking possible problem with injectors and/or electrical connection. Or something on wiring harness got messed up pulling engine or putting her back in. Coil packs and spark plugs were replaced new about 4 months ago. Pulled plugs on cylinder 4 and 6 and they look fine. Any ideas much appreciated.

No other codes on generic scanner.
 
#14 ·
Thanks don't think it's coil packs kinda newish but will try swapping. I'm going to pull fuel rail and check injectors my hunch is that's where problem lies I put some grease on them reinstalling and may have clogged something. Vacuum leak is certainly a possibility just confused by codes showing cylinders 4 and 6 would have expected random cylinders with vacuum leak but it has been consistent 4 and 6....l
 
#16 ·
Well back with update after many months.... got engine put back together and dropped it in. Started up but was running very rough and throwing random misfire codes. We tried everything and couldn't get it to run right. I started it up moved car and shut it down to shovel some snow. Started back up and heard a really bad clunk. Motor blew up. Pulled head and found Piston 4 and both intake valves were completely gone. Catastrophic failure. Not really sure what caused it probably had timing off.


So car sat for most of spring until I sourced a "new" (used) motor. Picked one up from 2007 E350 with only 80k miles. Was told motor was "mint" and serial numbers were past the problem numbers with updated balance shaft. Got it home and immediately ran compression and leakdown test. Very little compression. Ran a bore scope and cylinders were badly scored. Back to salvage yard...

They sourced a different motor that I was told was from dealer in MD and was supposed to be from an 2008 with low miles and guaranteed to run. What I got was a very low serial number motor that had a sticker from PA. It looked like they did a good job inspecting it everything was marked and hoses capped etc. Still has to be from an early 2005 or 2006 with low serial number. Told salvage yard and basically never heard back from them again...

Sat for another several weeks... I checked compression and leakdown and got good numbers. Decided to tear it all down (which voided salvage yard warranty) and build it back again with all the new parts I bought for original motor.

Cylinders appeared to be in good shape aside from a couple of very light and small scuff marks (smooth to touch) on cylinders 2 and 5. To my surprise balance shaft seemed to be in good shape. I replaced balance shaft, timing chain, chain tensioner, chain guides, oil pump (incl chain and tensioner), water pump, thermostat and most of the parts from original motor (oil pans, differential, manifold, alternator, etc). So motor is used block, pistons, crank and heads almost everything else is from original motor or new.

Put it all back together Started up was running OK but a little rough and throwing random misfire on Cyl 6. Pulled coil and plug (both new Bosch) and the gap on the plug was closed shut. I must have dropped the plug or damaged it while installing. Fixed the gap reinstalled and motor is now purring like a kitten!

Throwing a speed sensor code in transmission and had a rough shift during test drive. I got the valve body pulled out and am waiting for UPS to deliver a new conductor plate. Hopefully will get this running correctly tonight. Need to get inspected before I can renew registration freaking NYS...

Wish me luck been a long journey...
 
#17 ·
I did a few of these when I had the dealership. We basically replaced everything and it was a big job. The timing is not difficult but you have to follow the procedure to the letter.

The timing chain has color coded links which line up perfectly when things are set properly. My hats off to you for doing that job. Wow...it was a lot for us.
 
#18 ·
I swore up and down the timing was dead on both with timing chain links and marks on cams/heads as well as the hallmarks on pulse wheels at 305 when it was all back together. Honestly I don't know why it failed could have been something else (stuck valve maybe?). Anyways water under the bridge. Yeah definitely a big job but learned alot in process. I think the hardest part was getting the exhaust bolted back up by myself. Was using ratchet straps, universal joints and alot of swear words lol. All and all took much longer than expected but came out good in the end. Just came back from test drive and it's running pretty good.
 
#20 ·
Yes counter clockwise at I believe 70Nm to engage timing chain tensioner then two full revolutions clockwise. I followed all the procedures even put together a notebook. There was no binding. Engine started and ran (rough) several times over period of days before it exploded. Have no idea what caused it. As I said water under the bridge...
 
#22 ·
Thanks not at all there's a good video on you tube where they do entire balance shaft repair. It may actually be a Mercedes training video walks you through step by step. I think I may have actually posted it earlier in this thread. If not I'll find it and post link. Good luck if you're doing this really not that bad once you get engine out.
 
#26 ·
Na not a chance everything was bagged and labeled as it came off I even kept the old pulse wheels in bag with the cam gears and they're marked right/left and intake/exhaust. I don't know what happened motor was turning freely by hand, hallmarks on pulse wheels were where they needed to be and it started and ran (albeit roughly) several times before it failed. Really weird.
 
#27 ·
Yes cams, timing chain, timing chain cover, flywheel, rear crank seal cover plate, oil pans all have to come off. It's possible to do job with heads on but easier with them off. Need to pull heads to change 3 of the timing chain guides. Basically entire engine needs to be torn down aside from pistons and crank.