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Crankshaft position sensor P0336 code - apparently was wiring

29K views 6 replies 5 participants last post by  Road_Ghost  
#1 · (Edited)
Hi all,

Haven't posted much lately cuz very busy with work and the B's been very good till recently.

Had the engine light come on. Car would take about twice as long to start (cranking time). Was quite unsettling, hearing the starter motor working for so long.

Anyway, the engine light was on and the engine would run a little rough, not too noticeable. Was down on power, but noticeably, but at higher RPM's (maybe above 5K) would wake up and you felt the power kicking in.

I have an OBD2 scanner, only showed a P0336 code (and a pending code also P0336).

Replaced the sensor with a brand name aftermarket, still same problem after clearing codes.

Read that these cars are sensitive to voltage, and since my battery was reading 12.5 (in instrument cluster, when you press reset three times), I replaced the battery. Still no change after clearing codes. Problem persisted.

Then I read in the WIS and internet that after changing crankshaft position sensors, that you have to hook up the M-B Star diagnosis Xentry tool and do a "rotor sensor adaptation"

So basically, for a DIY'er, you're stuck going to the dealer no matter what.

They checked the code, replaced the sensor with an OEM (of course they would, lol) and THE PROBLEM PERSISTED.

They ended up telling me that the problem was in the wiring, near the plug.

$1100 later, the problem is fixed.

Do I believe them completely? No. Is it possible that all they did was replace a good aftermarket sensor with an OEM sensor just to make some money and hook up the star diagnosis to fix the car? I probably will never know. It's hard to believe, but they said the problem was the wiring, even though I didn't notice anything unusual. But then again I didn't check too thoroughly.

Anyway, food for thought. In retrospect, I would have replaced the sensor with an OEM so I didn't waste $100 on a sensor. I'd also do a wiggle test and check the wiring better.

Hope this helps someone.

I'm now looking for someone with an Xentry tool that is cheaper than the dealer.

edit: even suspected bad gas originally, cuz problem started right after a fill up. Waited till tank was empty and refilled, but problem persisted.
 
#2 ·
Paulo...

Thanks for the heads up on that sensor...Shame that we can never trust the dealer..
You know your stuff so much better than most of us here, and you still got caught...Damn..!!

We are "so screwed" when it comes to dealing with our dealerships. You can never be sure with them. Your brother would have to be a MB mechanic working in the back...

Do you have more info on what exactly this "Xentry tool" is ..? I guess that there is some kind of re-calibration going on and they have to recognize each other,.. and then the reset..

Did you keep the old sensor and the new replaced sensor as a study tool..?
 
#3 ·
Xentry is a system consisting of a lap top, a multiplexer and software. You can buy it from Mercedes for 30-40K or look on eBay. There are all sorts of chinese knockoffs from people in the Orient. Wanting nothing to do with these questionable types, I found Paul Christiansen (sp?) in Florida. He sells the systems but lists his phone number if you need help. Lot easier to call Florida than Hong Kong. Also believe his system is an European knockoff. You are looking at about $900USD for his system. I bought one for my mechanic then take it out in trade. Works wonderfully. The last email address I had was Paul60600@gmail.com
Anziani
 
#4 · (Edited)
Dave: ^ Yeah, that's what the Xentry is all about. I've seen the ebay knockoffs and am not going to risk it.

Anziani, yeah looking for someone with acess to the system to do little jobs like the "rotor sensor calibration". But preferably closer by.

Everyone didn't believe me that I had to have the car hooked up to a computer after a CPS change. I think that when the code pops up, Mercedes forces you to hook it up so they can make some money.

It's just a magnetic sensor that reads the 'toothed wheel', so it shouldn't need calibration. But according to the WIS, you do.

Anyway, I'm hoping the dealer was honest and indeed there was trouble with the wiring.

Paulo

edit: yes, I kept the original sensor I took out and the aftermarket sensor as well.
 
#5 ·
When I bought my car I was already mentally/financially prepared to be dealer dependant. Thankfully my indie is very capable/knowledgeable for the most part.

I'll be moving onto the Metris once my B200 becomes too much of a liability. This way I'll get to know the dealer really well. lol
 
#6 ·
Paul you should have spent the $1100 on a Xentry system, would have been cheaper and most likely faster. You can get a good working system in the US for under $900.
The hardware is always a Chinese clone. These are very powerful tools you can do everything the shops can do and a little bit more. They usually come with wis ane epc (parts catalog and repair manuals)
The software is complex but easy to use.
 
#7 ·
The dealer has to do the TCM as per three different German specialty shops (one of which is very well established) when I had CVT issues. I'm sure there are other items that indies can't do/access on Mercedes.