I just spoke with the dealership and they wrote up "front thrust arm bushings are leaking oil". I'm perplexed. I thought maybe they meant the boots were leaking. I didn't think the bushings themselves have oil. When I got home and rolled under the car I looked at the control arms and saw no oil on the bushings or the boots. I would like some help sorting out this mystery please. I'll try to attach some pics I took of the boots. Am I missing another link somewhere? I would prefer to replace the mystery part myself if I can figure out what the hell it is rather than pay the shop 1000 bucks to do it.
BK

 

Not sure what shop is talking about maybe breakdown of rubber bushing looks like grease and they said oil? In any event your pics show the ball joints bushings are on other (interior) side of the control arms. I'm a DIYer so take this for what its worth but I wouldn't consider replacing bushings particularly difficult and would tackle that job myself. Only you know what you're comfortable and equipped to handle though. There are tons of you tube videos on this watch a few and decide for yourself. It's easier and much fewer parts to leave control arm on vehicle... only one bolt and nut but you'll need a special press tool to remove and install a new bushing. The tool alone is about $300. If you take the control arm completely out of vehicle you'll need to remove a few more parts but will also have more options to replace bushing. You will need a press with appropriate cups (or the aforementioned tool) to do it yourself. You might be able to have a local shop press old bushings out and replace new ones for a reasonable charge (most likely less than cost of buying the press tool if you don't have one or access to one). Also you could just buy new control arms with bushing and new ball joint already installed. Anyway if you're reasonably handy and own the right tools it shouldn't be that difficult to do job yourself. Hope this helps and good luck with project!

 

Look at the bushing on the inside end of the arm. Even if it leaked fluid, I’m not convinced it would cause your clunk, so check and convince yourself. It could be the sway bar link, for example.

On the arm, I would just replace the whole part with bushing included.

 

You are showing picture of the ball joint. Look at the other end of the control arm where it connects to the subframe, that rubber is filled with oil. That is what they're referring to.

 

Does anyone know what the torque specs are for the upper and lower control arm bushings and ball joints?

 

Thanks for the info

 

Believe both are two stage torque spec. Bushing 80 Nm plus 120 degrees. Ball joint 50 NM plus 60 degrees. Bushing should be torqued when car is on ground in normal driving position.

Note certain bushings may be filled with hydraulic fluid check part number to be sure.

 

Really appreciate the info👍👍👍

 

Well I installed the four new control arms which wasn’t that bad a project. I’m not sure why but my steering wheel is now slightly turned to the right. I’m scheduling an alignment.
I must confess that I am eating crow pie after my previous remarks. The bushings on the upper control arms are indeed liquid filled. This is the first car I’ve ever worked on with said bushings.My apologies for doubting those with far more knowledge than I. Even though the bushings looked dry the drivers side was drained of fluid and the other side was fine. The fluid must have drained sometime ago. The noise is now gone and it’s tightened up the very slight play I had in the steering.
Thanks again for your valuable insight.
BK

 

Well I installed the four new control arms which wasn’t that bad a project. I’m not sure why but my steering wheel is now slightly turned to the right. I’m scheduling an alignment.
I must confess that I am eating crow pie after my previous remarks. The bushings on the upper control arms are indeed liquid filled. This is the first car I’ve ever worked on with said bushings.My apologies for doubting those with far more knowledge than I. Even though the bushings looked dry the drivers side was drained of fluid and the other side was fine. The fluid must have drained sometime ago. The noise is now gone and it’s tightened up the very slight play I had in the steering.
Thanks again for your valuable insight.
BK

I know this post is a little old. But do you have pictures of your old bushings showing the oil? We’re they genuine control arms? I’m getting ready to tackle mines myself. How did you manage to compress the suspension in order to torque the bushing end? I plan on using a bottle jack method.