722.9 Tranny Service Procedure...

Check out this link ... talks about 722.9 and 722.6 Tranny...


http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w211-e-class/1438555-cost-transmission-flush.html

This link details the 722.9 Tranny Dealer's service @ $400 !!!
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w209-new-clk-class/1442034-7-speed-auto-gearbox-atf-change.html

So what do you think?

 

Thanks. The references were helpful but I'm still confused. My goal is to get the transmission fluid change done right and be sure it was. I use dealers for lots of things but this seems to be an area where they are doing a variety of things which may not be the right things to do.

Part of my problem is that it seems the dealers don't really change the fluid, they drop the pan, change the filter, and replace whatever fluid was in the pan. This doesn't seem like the right thing to do and can't be all that hard for a DIY.

If the desire is to change more of the fluid then it gets harder. Here is seems that the dealers use the BG system and often use the BG chemicals. Is this approved by MB? It isn't clear but seems unlikely. If they do it this way, they don't change the filter.

So, if you're anal about these sorts of things (I am), how does one get the fluid out and have the filter changed? It isn't clear that the dealers have this figured out so DIY looks like the best way to get it done. (If I'm wrong about the dealers, I'm certainly willing to go that way.)

So, if I want to do it myself, how is it done without all the expensive MB special equipment? There was a mention of starting the car and letting the transmission pump the fluid out of one of the cooling hoses. If one did this, the fluid needs to be replaced. Assenmacher makes the adapter needed for the 722.9 transmission to add fluid (and has a kit that includes it and a pump). So, will pumping the fluid out via the hose and pumping new fluid in via the Assenmacher kit work? If so, if I measure what comes out and pump that amount in, is that OK? It seems to me that this should work, but I'm not sure.

Some of the links talk about measuring the fluid at specific temperatures using the MB Start Diagnostic system. If this is needed, can't that be done via a non-contact external measurement rather than using the Star Diagnostics and computer? How critical is it to monitor the temp if about the right amount of fluid is replaced?

I hope this helps explain my quandary.

Thanks again for any help.

Best regards.

 

Fluid change for the 7-speed trans (722.9) CANNOT be performed DIY. Period.

Requires special tools, as fluid is drained and refilled from the same place.

Take to dealer and specify they use the recently upgraded fluid, i.e. 236.14.

You know that for $18 you can subscribe to WIS for 24 hours and print out the procedures. When you read them I'm pretty sure you'll give up trying to do this yourself.
http://www.startekinfo.com
Mercedes-Benz Operating Fluids-Extranet

 

oh... sorry... the link did not work ... here it is again: W209 New CLK Class - Page 2 - Benzworld.org - Mercedes Benz Discussion Forum

Click on the topic: 7-Speed Auto Gearbox ATF Change

But Ikchris has the right idea: go download the WIS to get the correct procedure.

That said, I don't see why the Assenmarcher pump could be used to replaced the ATF removed via the front radiator line, assuming that it has a graduated reservoir so an exact amount can be pumped back into the Tranny? Of course, the tranny would have had the filter replaced before starting the procedure and would then have to be warmed up and monitored by an external Infrared Temperature gun.

Let us know if you do this... please document and post here! :thumbsup:

Good Luck...

 

Here's Assenmarcher Tranny pump for Mercedes 722.9

http://www.asttool.com/detail_page.php?tool_number=ATF%201007-5%20EURO

:thumbsup:

 

This is the pump/adapter I was thinking of (ATF 1004-5 MB). It's specifically for the MB transmission and a little cheaper than the Euro kit. Is there any reason to get all the adapters?

AST

 

2006 had the 7 speed

thought that was last year for 5 speed, im probably wrong.....

 

2006 CDI has 5 speed, others in 2006 have 7 speed.

 

There is no reason to get the other adapter unless you want to service a BMW and other makes....

Did you get the WIS procedure downloaded?

So what do you think?

What are your plans?

 

Adding Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF to 722.9 tranny

I changed the fluid of my R350's transmission for the sole reason that the dealer's price is $400 without replacing the filter (only flush). I removed the plug to see the shape of the oil and it was pitch black. I bought the R when it had 38k miles, and I somehow missed the changing at around 39k miles. Now I have 70k. I drained about 6 quarts and added the same, but I am woorried that the Mobil 1 synthetic is not for this tranny. It drives smoothly though. I did not know about the torque converter plug, but I will change the oil once more. I am glad I removed the pan since it was full of gunk and I noticed the shifting was a bit stiff. Not anymore. I am worried that the fluid I added will affect the tranny in the long run, although it says on the bottle that it is MB 236.14 approved or compliant. What if we need to add emergency fluid and we don't have the proper one?

 

I think the torque converter plug was discontinued around 2002.

 

Drain torque converter



So how do you drain a torque converter for a 722.9 (06 R350) tranny, besides flushing it?

 

That is one way. The other is a 14 liter procedure.
Do a normal drain and filter replacement. Top off with approx 5-6 liters. Then disconnect the
ATF coolant return line. Start the vehicle and allow the vehicle to pump out 3 liters.
reconnect the ATF coolant line. Top it off with 3 liters. Start the engine again and at idle
cycle the transmission through all the gears and allow the fluid to get to 80º C. Check level
of fluid and it should be finished. That gets 95% or more of the all the old fluid out.
There is a WIS document around the forum in a recent thread that details the procedure.

 

Thanks Noodles. That really helped. Although I used about 27 liters of ATF fluid (9 Mobil 1 @ $8, and 18 MB ATF 134 Fluid @ $15.75, which normally $23.14, plus filter $45 and $13 for a set of new round magnets that are suppose to replace the grid magnet on oil pan). Overall, I spent $72 + $310 + $63 = $445. Dealer's price: $400, although, I believe they would have found a way to charge me $800 for other stuff. The oil pan's bolts are tightened by HAND ONLY. Maybe a little ratchet torque if it leaks. I used this link for checking the ATF: 722.9 Fluid Level check

 

Well it sounds like with that much fluid being used it is safe to say that you have a good
clean load of the MB fluid back into it(if I understand your post that you used the MB
fluid after the Mobil 1)

That is the correct way to measure levels. I also went with new magnets.

 

Torque Converter on 722.9

I was wonering why my transmission fluid was all dark, and I read that the torque converter is made out of graphite, which causes the oil to turn dark. I drive the R the way I drive the CLS, which is rough. I attribute my driving to the fluid, but I have never experienced the fluid to be so black. The magnet did not have much metal particles on it, so that is why I believe something else is causing it. I may be setting myself for needing a new torque converter. The R350 is killing me, not the CLS. I thought it would be the other way around, this is why we bought an extended warranty for the CLS and not the R. I have probably spent about $3k-$4k on repairs and maintenance for the R, and the CLS, about $800, and we have had both cars about the same time.

 

Drain plug for torque converter is still there. 4mm allen.

In regards to aluminum 6 oil pan screws they must be replaced after removal. 4NM then 180 degrees.

Oil pan and fill tube may need to be ugraded if not beveled version due to improved flow.

Just did my S550 for the 3rd transmission fluid and filter change last weekend.

 

2009 E350 Sport
Guys:
I was wondering if there isn't a way to add a transmission dipstick to the side of the pan? To get the correct level, all one would need to do is change the pan to the new pan, install fluid per the method originally described and then checking the new dipstick and adjusting it to get the levels correct. At least it would allow for an easy way to visually check the condition of the trans fluid. I live in Arizona and I am sure the extreme road head helps break the fluid down here. I was thinking of using top quality stainless steel semiconductor grade fittings so there would be no leakage etc. Any body know of a reason to NOT add a dip stick kit? Is the lower pan area "pressurized"...I don't think that it would be since the bolts are torqued to such low force.

Thanks!

Milkman

 

That would be a neat project, it would save our members a ton of cash(changing their own ATF), you may want to use the 5 speed dipstick arrangment and calibrate the indicator based on the 7 speed fluid level.

 

I would love to do this and post the specs and pics. I have done this for various vehicles that I have owned in the past and this seems to be a BIG problem for the end user. I am a mechanical engineer and actually an ex rocket scientist so if I do it, I will do it right...but I also know that the "collective" usually has some insight into problems that can arise. This is my first MB and I LOVE it. I was thinking about using one of those cool stainless steel braided hose kits for the trans dip tube/stick and there is already a "vacant" bolt hole in the back of the engine block facing the fire wall. I would want to mount to the engine in case any "torquing" of the engine would cause a twisting effect...I want it all to move as one so there is no leaking. I'm going to start a new post for this so the more experienced MB folks can chime in.

 

there is a drain plug on torque converter as well and easy to access is just a small round rubber cover not even a bolt or anything in its way i jus flushed almost 8 quarts my first time ever from the bottom through the drain plug with a hand pump and make sure car is level flat. with engine running keep pumping new fluid into filler aka drain hole like 2 quarts you will see the watery goo mucky muck start come out keep pumping new into it aslong nasty crap keeps come out. then do it all over again but this time pull the torque converter drain open or remove pan and filter open or remove drain plug at torque converter and let it drip drip drip all nigh if need be its such a hard pain in ass job empty that gunk out a second time put a second filter in then start try do regular fluid changes at 30000 mile like in the book so it wont get to the point clean right first time you wont go through it a second time,, DIY...

 

Dealers in USA "don't do" converters fluid change.
Per my observations, most of transmission contamination lands on pan bottom, so for me wiping the pan clean is crucial part.
Even with converter drain, you will have several cups of fluid trapped in the housing, so I don't consider draining the converter crucial.
I did it on setups, where it was easy, but in the past my W210 did not have the plug, when present W212 with 7G+ has electric fluid pump at the transmission bottom, with inspection hole off-center, what make huge mess when draining, so I rather skip that part.
Just do the service more frequently, if it makes you feel better.

 

Would they do it if the customer requested it?
It was done on one of MLs at least 12 years ago.

 

My 2007 E350 with the 7 speed transmission has a drain plug on the torque converter. There's a plastic cover in the bell housing to remove, and a couple of wire loom mounts to get out of the way. I put a big wratchet on the crankshaft front bolt, and rotated the engine with one hand while using the other hand to feel the torque converter moving through the bell housing hole. The drain plug is easy to feel when it comes around.