Your problem is "most likely" electric. Check the date code and brand name on your OVP (over voltage protection) relay. It is behind the battery next to your ECU.

If it has a date code (mercedes/siemens/KAE mostly has it) it will be "work week".year.

Something like 25.07, meaning WW25 of year 2007.

If it is older than 10 years you may want to replace it with a good unit (not a used one as it is considered a wear item)

If you would rather keep diagnosing, you should wire two long wires to your Idle control valve, run them thru your firewall behind the battery (where all the other harnesses are going thru) and run them to the interior of the car. Constantly monitor the IACV voltage as you are driving. Your IACV wires to the ECU should be connected to the ECU as well, so do not break that connection, you can strip the insulator from a wire and stick them into the connector or solder them in.

My bet is that you will notice that the IAVC voltage will start "misbehaving" when the stall episodes happen.

If these do not help you circle back and we can do some more diagnosis.

I had a similar stall with my Manual transmission and the problem was the OVP about 6 months ago. Look for "random stall" under my name and you will see it. Your's could be different of course.

 

Your problem is "most likely" electric. Check the date code and brand name on your OVP (over voltage protection) relay. It is behind the battery next to your ECU.

If it has a date code (mercedes/siemens/KAE mostly has it) it will be "work week".year.

Something like 25.07, meaning WW25 of year 2007.

If it is older than 10 years you may want to replace it with a good unit (not a used one as it is considered a wear item)

If you would rather keep diagnosing, you should wire two long wires to your Idle control valve, run them thru your firewall behind the battery (where all the other harnesses are going thru) and run them to the interior of the car. Constantly monitor the IACV voltage as you are driving. Your IACV wires to the ECU should be connected to the ECU as well, so do not break that connection, you can strip the insulator from a wire and stick them into the connector or solder them in.

My bet is that you will notice that the IAVC voltage will start "misbehaving" when the stall episodes happen.

If these do not help you circle back and we can do some more diagnosis.

I had a similar stall with my Manual transmission and the problem was the OVP about 6 months ago. Look for "random stall" under my name and you will see it. Your's could be different of course.

i see you have the same car i have but 3years older (e320 4matic) mine did bassicly the same thing op’s car did except just Died and didnt spike in rpm. Havent been able to get it to start since it happened. Battery still has power so i know that aint the problem.Got Any tips to get it rolling again asap as it is on the side of the road and i dont want it destroyed. Thanks!

 

Besides the OVP which has already been mentioned, you'll need to check your Fuel Pump Relay as well. It's right behind the OVP and the solder joints inside often fail which leads to the fuel pumps suddenly shutting off. I had an issue where my car would sometimes randomly shut off going 25mph, RPMs would then drop to zero. Changing the FPR fixed my issues.

Besides those make sure your cap and rotor are in good condition as well.

 

Can you check the carbon brush inside the top of the distributor ,look at it and see if it moves up and back down as you push it. And another item is the ht coil itself ,it might be on the way out ..Take a look under the hood in the dark for shorts on the top of the coil .

 

Ignition Switch

Maybe you have a bad ignition switch? A bump in the road or some humidity causes the contacts in the switch to fail and the motor cuts off while the rest of the electricals work normally.

This is located behind your ignition tumbler. Remove the instrument cluster and remove the switch's connector by wiggling it out very slowly and carefully. Remove the three screws, replace the unit, reinstall the three screws and reinstall the connector. Replace the instrument cluster. No more stalling.

 

Thank you all for the good responses, I'll be trying everything you suggested and tell you the updates. Also I'm sorry if I'm taking too long to answer, it's just that I'm really busy with the winter preparations for the car.

 

Hi,

I got a similar issue, but on a A Class. The problema was with one of the air intake vales that was durty.

At MB they just changed me the valve and Chargers me 250€. Later I learned that one could celan the valve and ti would be ok.

Só I would sugest you to inspect the air intake vales.

Mane thanks

Filipe

 

Also the pipe in the picture that goes to fuel pressure regulator is split and will be a problem if it goes ,, fuel will soak the engine and could go up in flames . What possision is the economy gauge pointer sitting at idle ?

 

Quite a good observation about that pipe,I'll look into it. I don't have an ecomony gauge reading in my car's readings but the rpm is at 9.

 

E320 (94/95) is quite a different car and does not have much in common with the W201. I would suggest you post your questions on the W124.

 

While I agree that the W201 and W124 are different cars, the same principles of electricity will still apply. Based on the description of the problem, it sounds like it might be some type of an electrical short somewhere in the system. I agree that the OP should ask their question in the W124 section.

 

94-95 W124 has complete different engine management than any W201.

 

Yep, Had one of those in the past. entirely different ignition system and fuel injection system for the 94-95 M104 engines. There are no similarities whatsoever.
Hopefully Klampie already posted on the W124 forum.