Might be other ways to remove the bolt, but you might consider cutting just the head off and use the remainder as a stud.
If the bolt you are holding is the actual length there looks to be plenty still embedded.


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Once the head is removed it will let you remove the bracket to fit 2 nuts on remaining thread locked together will extract it so you can use a new bolt or up the size of the head.This would make it better to,remove next time

 

Skippy, plinker:

2 great ideas I can decide once head is cut & bracket off.

IF there are sufficient threads still in frame body hole, I'll just use a Nylock metric nut to secure, aka stud / nut layout. [I don't think DW will object !]

OR use 2 'jam' nuts to remove "stud".

It's been soooooo many years since I've broken or rounded a bolt those options just didnt occur to me, mentally @ midnight.

I've seen some wrenches that are like a vari - fit head with knurled dog pawl, that can grab edges of even round bolt. Anyone tried them ?

I like your ideas better cause it doesn't destroy the fastener but may save it !

I have a cordless Dremel cut off tool that should do the trick !

Gratefully - David in Texas

 

For these silly E head bolts, do you guys use the E sockets or just go with the MM equivalent size ?

I think I would have been better off if I had used the 8mm to start with.

My E socket has a rounded inner edge & I think that combined with stubborn 20 year old threads = problem I now have.

Reason I ask is on the 'other side' bracket one of the bolts is stubborn, too.

I did soak it with PB overnight so perhaps that has helped....we shall see....

Thx - David

 

You had to use lousy wrech to start with as E torx gives you such a strong grip, that you suppose to twist the bolt before rounding the head.
In this case I would use the square teeth wrench as on the picture. I found box wrench as a sample, but they also make the design in sockets . Between metric and SAE sizes you should find one who will make a fit require some tapping on.

Than you always have removal sockets

Lastly the problem probably is due the bolt corrosion or dirt on thread on the other side, so technique is to make some turns right and left to loose the dirt.

 

More great ideas Kajtek thank you !

All I know is that after the 'rounded head' incident, I switched to an 8mm deep socket on the next E10 bolt and it felt WAY more secure on bolt head. Go figure.

Even though threads are hidden up inside unibody 'frame rail' I think you're correct, there was some crust, dirt, what have you on those threads.

I'll do the back & forth on that stubborn one for sure.

I will also try to pick up a set of those 'removal sockets'.

In our small town, we pretty much have Lowes & Harbor Freight as tool sources - mostly they have whats needed, sometimes not, than it's "Amazon it & wait !"

 

Those tools are mostly available at Sears and Sears ships tools for small charge.
When I needed big E sockets for engine disassembly - I search whole Las Vegas and nobody had them.
So mail order and usually they deliver within 5 days.
Amazon very often has 1-day delivery for me.