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BASICS: Where to put Jack/Jack Stands

15K views 9 replies 6 participants last post by  amgtuned  
#1 ·
Hi all,

I have some very basic questions for the forum (copious photos are appreciated):
• Where can I safely put my jack to lift the front of the car? To lift the rear of the car?
• Is there a single place I can put my jack to lift the entire front end? To lift the entire rear end?
• Jack pads seem to be a good place for jack stands, but where else can I put the car on jack stands?

Can I safely jack the car up from this (see photo)? It looks like a strong piece of the frame, but I don't want to assume. The edge of jack pad is visible at the top edge of the photo. This spot is immediately adjacent to the jack pad.
 

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#2 ·
I jack the rear by placing the saddle of the jack directly under the diff. At the same time I have the front wheels chocked. To suspend the rear I place jack stands directly under the anchor point for the rear subframe. The front part in your pic is where I place front jack stands but it's a good idea to have some plywood to protect the underside and spread the load. I am sure other members will chime in.
 
#3 ·
I use the 4 jack pad points with a hydraulic jack, then placing a jack stand under the frame rail with cut 3/4" plywood to level the load. There are times that I will slip the jack saddle under the diffy to place jack stands at the jack points, again with wood to level the load. I always keep some jack (I have 4) there holding 25% of the load in the unlikely even that a jack stand fails. Rhino ramps are part of my arsenal as well, the heavy duty ones and I use heavy rubber chocks. I have used wood on stands at the cross member and jacked just ahead under the engine at the engine support area. I also have hockey pucks on all of my jack saddles.
 
#5 ·
^^^^
I like this and consider the same for some time.
 
#6 ·
I do similar when I don't have the need to pull the wheels. I made wood blocks with 6X6 post scraps I had here and added half again (6X9) for the width of the tires. I made them long enough to add a chock of sorts so the car won't roll off of them. The concrete cap blocks I use sometimes give me an additional 4 inches or so of height **PLEASE NOTE** these are solid concrete cap blocks and NOT cinder blocks with the open holes, cinder blocks will crumble under the weight of the car and are not safe to use for this. Once I have everything "set" I've never had any fear that the car will come down on me while under there, solid as a rock
 

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#7 ·
On a lark, FSM states that lifting at the diffy in the center of axel is ok along with the center of the engine crossmember (not the tranny crossmember with bolts on each side)
 
#9 · (Edited)
I would use wide base at engine cross member, the diffy and all 4 jack pads


If you don't have something, you can buy 2 sets of rhino ramps with 2" plywood on each surface. Slide them accordingly to the support location.