Great detailed info and pics

:thumbsup:

 

CarBizIndio, Excellent write up and pics!

I have to replace my dampener. How much did the parts cost? How many hours of labor would you say this would be for a MB specialist?


Additional info on this topic:
If your dampener needs replacing you will hear a howling sound that peaks at 2000 RPM then disappears above that RPM. MB has a service buliton about this.

 

My accumulator/dampener was $187 with 1.5 hours labor @ $141. So, I'd say $330-ish.

 

Its a very quick and easy job, you should give it a shot. I don't think the labor rate will pay very much on this job. I have to look up the invoice on that part, I forgot how much it was, I'm pretty sure it was around $150 give or take $20. The most time consuming part of the job was bleeding the system which didn't turn out so well for me, I bleed each side 4 times and couldn't full get rid of the hissing noise from the area. But the humm is gone and it rides top notch.

 

 

does the white plastic piece that on top of the new pulsation damper needs to removed before installation

 

Absolutely!
That white plug is inserted into the hole to keep out contaminates until you install the damper. Look at the picture of him holding the new one on the left and old one on the right.

Good luck,

Bob

 

My CL500 had that horrible howling sound below 2000rpm. When I heard it I initially thought the tandem pump is shot...Thanks to the internet and this thread I have fitted a new pulsation damper and filters and my car is now whisper quiet !
Just some notes from my side: If you keep all four wheels lifted off the ground (chassis hoist or stands) and let the car rest for 15min+ first, fluid spillage is minimal and there was no need for me to release pressure before or bleed/rodeo it afterwards it also helps to fit the new pulsation damper quickly after the old one is removed to avoid air entering the system. The valve into which the pulsation damper screws is also mounted on rubber mountings and if the damper is on tightly you have to carefully brace the valve body when un screwing the damper otherwise you might shear the mountings or cause more damage. Not a very complicated job one just has to be clean and gentle.
I am still amazed how well a car with working ABC rides and handles!

 

A few months after this I replaced the front and rear accumulators as well as the return damper to solve a choppy ride and fluid "burping" out the reservoir . Not a very difficult job either and preventative maintenance IMO

 

Yeah at this age all 4 air cells need to be Changed . Best to do it in one shot with new fluid and filters

 

Do you guys have the part numbers for them? I ordered the one in the bulletin. I ordered 12 quarts of chf 11s. I also bought 6 quarts of tranny fluid. Some amg lsd diff fluid, brakes and fluid. I am about to service the s65. Since i drive the car once week i will also do the coils, plugs and get a tune also install my renntech cooling package.

 

Do you guys have the part numbers for them? I ordered the one in the bulletin. I ordered 12 quarts of chf 11s. I also bought 6 quarts of tranny fluid. Some amg lsd diff fluid, brakes and fluid. I am about to service the s65. Since i drive the car once week i will also do the coils, plugs and get a tune also install my renntech cooling package.

I'm attaching the EPC printout for the 4 AirCell/Accumlators for your S65. Are you sure your car has LSD? Fluid may be different if it does not. Also, are you doing coil packs due to miss fires? I am just curious as it seems that others change them for miss fires.

Good luck,

Bob

 

I get random misfires mostly on driver side. But Cylinder 3 always has a misfire. The dealer told me to get there "amg" castrol 75w140 lsd diff fluid.

My misfire is usually on a cold start but it triggers a misfire after 20 misses. The last time i drove the car it went into limp home mode from the misfires but when i restarted the engine all was fine. My m275 master tech told me to change the voltage transformer first. The issue with mine is it will function good but then it will misfire randomly or a loss of power (sort of fells like heatsoak because i can hear the wastegates operating so i assume its not a boost leak). When the car heatsoaks it backfires like crazy an officer told me he saw flames out of my muffler tip. My master tech told me to replace ic pump and voltage transformer for the coil packs. He says i/c pump failure will cause misfires when the engine is warm. When its in the 40 degrees outside engine pulls like a 65 should.

 

Very simple part to replace. Literally took us 10minutes and we rodeoed the car 3 times. The ride got better and no more noise. How many bars is "normal" for the abc suspension when tested with star? Also all 4 of the shocks were replaced in 2015 with arnot units (amg model) which suprised me also the pump was replaced they all date tags of 09/15 even the lines. But my cousin said i should change thrust arms and ball joints little play in the wheel and clunking sound.

 

Hello. I hear both from the cockpit and from the outside a sound of "leaking air" coming from the right front wheel (passenger). It's definitely the pulsation damper I think. However, I also have another problem. If the car stands still for a few days, the rear axle is lowered. In which case what should I replace?

 

I hear both from the cockpit and from the outside a sound of "leaking air" coming from the right front wheel (passenger). It's definitely the pulsation damper I think. However, I also have another problem. If the car stands still for a few days, the rear axle is lowered.

Your car your choice.

I gave you my opinion based on the info you supplied which I quoted above /\ /\ /\

Now you supply different info ...............

This noise appeared after replacing the tandem pump (ABC + power steering)

I'm not psychic.

 

It is virtually certain that your car has "Airmatic" suspension (pneumatic/compressed air), not ABC (hydraulic) suspension.

This should help you to understand your system.

Airmatic - W220 S-Class Encyclopedia

w220.wiki

 

Absolutely not. I have a CL500 with ABC system. However, ABC still has some nitrogen-containing components such as the pulsation damper.

 

I suspect you have 2 separate issues ................

1) Valve Block on rear Suspension needs rebuilding or replaced.

and

2) An Air Leak somewhere in the right side of the Engine Bay .................

Accumulators will only hiss once even if they have an external leak, whick is unlikely as they usually burst intenally and discharge into the ABC Fluid which can result in the Reservoir "burping" out some ABC Fluid

HTH

 

Let's tackle one problem at a time. Let's start with the noise problem. This noise appeared after replacing the tandem pump (ABC + power steering). The initial problem was that the CL was in too low a position and no longer rose. Replaced the pump manym problem solved. Now CL rises and runs. But this "whistle of air" has appeared which comes from the area of the front right wheel (passenger). The noise resembles a punctured bicycle wheel leaking air. The noise can be heard both from the passenger compartment and from the outside. You can hear it as soon as I start the engine, so even at idle speeds in P or N. Instrument cluster shows in blue: "Active Body Control ABC go to the workshop".

 

Maybe you got it wrong. I have both problems that you highlighted in bold. But my CL 500 C215 has an ABC system. It does not have Airmatic. CL C215 has ABC system as standard on all versions.

 

But my CL 500 C215 has an ABC system.

I know very well that your CL has ABC I have been professionally working on these cars for many years

 

Please read my post about first problem: pulsation damper. Excuse me for my bad english. I am italian.

 

So, let’s start with noise.

There is a pulsation damper on the pressure regulator. If (or when) it goes, there will be noise, getting louder at approximately 2,000 RPM. I wouldn’t call it hiss, but resonance.

The ABC visit workshop message is concerning. It can often be low pressure from the ABC pump. Rebuilt is not the same as good. You need to get this car on SDS and read out the actual pressure from the pump.

The suspension sagging is a valve block. Rebuild it. Problem solved.

 

Hello. Today I did some tests with the CL 500. It had been standing still for more or less 1 week.

As previously mentioned, starting the engine immediately starts the loud noise of the air vent and comes from the front left passenger wheel (LHD). As soon as I turn off the engine, the din slowly fades away. The car is well leveled and does not lose height.

Driving the car on the road, I notice that it sways more than it should and I hear a disturbing noise of rotation like: "zurri zurri zurri zurri zurri zurri" like the wheel of an old unlubricated trolley, and this noise is always coming from the front wheel left passenger (RHD).

 

Hello. Today I replaced the pulsation damper located behind the right front wheel. I did the job myself (it was very easy). As soon as I removed the old pulsation damper, very little oil came out. I screwed the new spare part by hand and tightened a little with the wrench (24mm). With the car lowered, I start the engine and go for a ride. No problem solved: blue error "ABC visit workshop" still present, sound of leaking air coming (in my opinion) from near the right front wheel still present (during the noise I touched the pulsation damper and from that point no air arrives) , car on the road that rocks / dances even on the straight still present and above all a very hateful rolling noise (which occurs only when the car is running) that makes "zurri zurri zurri zurri zurri zurri zurri zurri" still present. Obviously I also hear annoying noises from the service area (new MB service belt installed, did not solve the problem), and the 2 culprits could be either the famous noisy climate compressor or the "new" rebuilt ABC pump. In short, the road to having a CL without problems is still long.

 

Hello! Did you manage to solve the problem, if so, what was it?