000 074 11 13 is the Mercedes part number. 0438100088 is a Bosch number and is probably correct. Look on yours.

I don't know how they determined you need a new one. You can pour some fuel down the throttle or use starting fluid. If it starts it is fuel related. If not it may be spark. When you turn the ignition on without starting do you hear the fuel pump run for a second or two? If not it is probably the fuel pump relay or even the pump.

Are you sure they said timing change? Could it have been timing chain?

 

Hi! Thank you for responding! Aaahhh I see so that is the Bosch part number, ok got it! The car is with the shop, I am going to pass this message onto them or rather ask them to try this and see what happens. I am true girly girl so I do not know much about cars and couldn't tell you what the fuel pump sounds like LOL I am learning though and doing more research on my own, hence how I ended up here. This is my second 380SL; the first one was an 83. I love this car!

 

Fuel distributor suddenly went bad to the degree that the engine won't even start? It's not impossible, but highly unlikely.

What makes you think you may need a timing chain? (I assume you meant chain and not change).

Get a can of starting either and spray a small amount into the air intake...then try to start the engine. If it starts and immediately shuts off you have a fuel problem. If it doesn't start you have an ignition problem.

Perform that test and let us know the result and we can take it from there.

Welcome to the forum.

 

Good Morning, thank you kindly for your input. I am going to forward these messages over to my mechanic. My first time using this shop. They got really good reviews and work on all cars. Someone else told me it's probably not the distributor either. I did called the shop a little while ago and they insist its the distributor and that is what will get the car started. Do not know what they did but I am going to ask to speak to the mechanic myself.

 

Yes I meant timing chains. I know my car has 2 timing chains, opposed to the 81, 82, 83 that has only one.

 

Actually its been my experience there is only one timing chain. A nice long one, 68" long. Now if you're referring to the short chain that drive the oil pump I suppose this could be viewed as a "timing chain". These timing chains are not hard to change doing the right-cam-sprocket-feed-method. Just be sire to check your timing marks before starting it. Remember to change out all 4 of the chain guides in the heads.

 

Your problem isn't hard to diagnose with a little effort. The key to owning one of these cars is to not just throw parts at it, but to figure out what is really wrong and fix it the first time.

As others have said, your fuel distributor is not the first suspect. The tests they recommend are simple and inexpensive, and well worth doing.

 

What the bit with the timing chain means is not that you have two of them, but that the one that's in there is made up of two rows of chain links instead of just one. That yours has the dual row chain is a good thing.

 

There is one timing chain. '81-'83 North American 3.8 were single row. All other years and models are dual row. How many miles are on the vehicle? Timing chain service doesn't always mean replacing chain. Upper guide rails get brittle and need replacing. Tensioner gets weak and needs replacing. Some replace the chain. It is about $100.00 for IWIS which is OEM.

How much are they quoting for all of this?

Fuel pump is a buzzing sound.

US is a vague location. Prices vary.

 

My mileage is 102K. They haven't quoted me anything yet, just diagnosis and was trying to help me find the fuel distributor.

 

Being a reputable shop does not mean they can't be wrong and still be reputable. It is not the experience of most on this forum that fuel distributors suddenly go bad to the degree that the engine won't start. It's good that you are passing this information on to your indy but apparently he or she has not changed their original diagnosis. Keep in mind, we are offering suggestions based on our experience with these engines over many years and a widely varied owner base... unless your indy is seeing something that you are not passing on to us via your description, the fuel distributor is just about the last place we would start looking.

If spraying starting either into the air intake results in the engine starting, then you can rule out ignition problems and concentrate on fuel supply. If spraying starting either into the air intake does not result in the engine starting then you can rule out fuel supply... which includes the fuel distributor and numerous other components as well. Your indy must have a reason for turning his attention to the FD. It remains to be determined what that reason might be.

 

Right! They lady I spoke to (not the mechanic) which I told them that is who I want to speak with. She was very helpful and filled me in however I do need to speak to he mechanic. Which I am going to do when I get there. I still do not have a clear answer as to why they choose the FD except for that is what they need to do to start the car however the consensus here is that is not the case and I am starting to feel that it's not. I will give them these suggestions as well. I am just trying not to "offend" them however at this point I really don't give a damn as it's my money on the line and my car. And honestly you guys are making their job easier by giving them these good suggestions. Again I appreciate all your input!!

 

Shop doesn't know what the hell they're doing. "Reputable" means nothing when their experience is on modern cars with computers that tell them what to replace.

Ask them how they lead to this determination. They probably spent little time trying to diagnose your problem and their suggestions will easily cost $1k+ Expensive fixes that have no guarantee to fix them problem. These cars require old school troubleshooting.

You need three things: fuel, air, spark.

Are you getting spark? If not, I would check the ignition system.

Are you getting fuel? Have someone stand next to the fuel pump (under the rear of the car) and listen for a "buzz" when cranking. Do you hear it? If not, check with a voltmeter on the probes if it's getting power. If it's not, I would check the fuel pump relay. This lives behind the glove box and is a common failure item that prevents starting.

Let us know what part of the country you're in. There's a reputable shop section here on the forum for places that know what they're doing.

I would also suggest taking up wrenching as a hobby if you plan on owning this car long term. The skills to do so aren't difficult and you appreciate the car a lot more. We're all a fun bunch here anyway ?

Edit fuel pump is under the rear AXLE ie trunk. D'oh!

 

Shop doesn't know what the hell they're doing. "Reputable" means nothing when their experience is on modern cars with computers that tell them what to replace.

Ask them how they lead to this determination. They probably spent little time trying to diagnose your problem and their suggestions will easily cost $1k+ Expensive fixes that have no guarantee to fix them problem. These cars require old school troubleshooting.

You need three things: fuel, air, spark.

Are you getting spark? If not, I would check the ignition system.

Are you getting fuel? Have someone stand next to the fuel pump (under the rear of the engine) and listen for a "buzz" when cranking. Do you hear it? If not, check with a voltmeter on the probes if it's getting power. If it's not, I would check the fuel pump relay. This lives behind the glove box and is a common failure item that prevents starting.

Let us know what part of the country you're in. There's a reputable shop section here on the forum for places that know what they're doing.

I would also suggest taking up wrenching as a hobby if you plan on owning this car long term. The skills to do so aren't difficult and you appreciate the car a lot more. We're all a fun bunch here anyway 8)

I think you want to edit the pump location. :grin:grin

It is behind the right rear axle.

 

Hello! I have A 380SL 1984 that is in need of a fuel distributor and possibly a timing change. Vehicle was running just fine and all of a sudden wouldn’t start.

I had the same thing happening on my car. Ran fine one minute and the next minute I couldn’t start it again. It turned out being the fuel pump relay.

 

Ok, so you guys were a huge help in identifying the problem. They did everything you suggested with the starter/either spray to get the car to start. The car still won't start. The fuel and water pump works just fine. My local mechanic checked them before I took it to these guys and he said that was fine as well.

They finally checked the timing chain and that is what they believe the problem is, not the fuel distributor. They apologized for the misdiagnosis and ensured me it is definitely the timing chain. They gave me a quote of $525 that does not include parts. If I buy parts from them obviously they mark them up and they were honest about that, however, I am getting my own parts tomorrow. I am going to buy a timing chain kit. What do you guys think? Also, I was just looking at the timing chain kits and I see it's saying single row chain but I thought my car was 2? I totally forgot to ask him that or maybe he did tell me and it just went over my head. I will call first thing in the morning and ask him to check for me.

https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/11941...BRAWEiwAiAqZh6-yVd7WMVJaiKVBtvZCe4HsF-mzEb_rkBBp8rv2U9lAMB4UylUM6BoCOXAQAvD_BwE

https://www.partsgeek.com/gbproduct...a6ebIHpY-WIo0GuZdYmwg1O3MS3pjRUDvnONiuLUnmbAmkTb9FBoCdYoQAvD_BwE&ad=47433948732

 

Both of those kits are wrong. They have single row chains.

 

This is my baby that I’ve been bugging you guys about all day??? lol I love my car!!!

 

Thanks for posting the pic. Nice looking car.

 

@gina You stated you have a 1984 380sl... that engine is an interference engine... which means if the chain brakes or even skips a few teeth, the valves start hitting pistons and that is a very bad thing. If that is the case, replacing the timing chain is only the beginning... the head(s) must come off and a few valves replaced. I don't like having to doubt someone else's mechanic but my advice to you at this point is to find a different mechanic. First a diagnosis of a bad fuel distributor and then a bad timing chain??? Perhaps it's time to find a mechanic who knows a little more about vintage Mercedes V8's. It's looking more and more like your current mechanic is not up to speed on your engine.

Good luck.

 

I can't even argue your point as I've stated I am not well versed in the mechanism of cars. The chain is not broken rather loose and not on the proper marks. I am going to bring this point to their attention and got from there. I did ask the group for any shops in my area and did a search and did not see one. I am going to stick this out and see what happens. Wish me luck! Thanks

 

Timing chain should be easy enough to check before spending any serious money, just have them pop the valve covers and check if all the timing marks line up.

 

That is what they did. To be fair they did initially say the timing chain was apart of the issue. Still not sure why they felt it was the FD but the timing belt was mentioned. The marks aren't lined up and the chain is loose.

 

This is another one I found that looks like a double chain. They open at 9 and I will call them when they open. This is where I order all my parts from however they did not have a kit but everything separate. I also just found the double chain on partsgeek as well its just not in the kit, I have to buy all separate which is fine as the price for everything is still similar.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/me...s/mercedes-engine-timing-chain-380se-380sl-420sel-380sec-380slc-0009977594#desc

 

fcpeuro looks good. I don't use partsgeek. Bad experience years ago.

I also don't use Febi but it is hard to justify the difference in price on the tensioner.

 

Here's an oldie where chain jumped and car ran. https://www.benzworld.org/forums/r-c107-sl-slc-class/1665006-im-open-your-opinion.html

 

Thank You!

 

Any news?

 

Hello! My parts should be there today. Depending on how early they arrive is will determine if they work on it today or tomorrow. I’m hoping today! Definitely going to keep you guys posted. Thanks

 

By the time the work discussed here is done, I hope your baby purrs like a kitten.
Good Luck!

 

Ok just spoke to the shop and I am headed there now to discuss further in person. Received the worst news; it's my engine. They had a Mercedes Benz tech come in and upon further inspection it is definitely my engine. They sent me 2 videos that I would have to figure out how to upload here if I can. The videos is of the tech showing me the engine and all he parts and what went wrong.

At this point I need to figure out if it's worth me salvaging or getting a new car. I'm sure they have engines around but if the price is too high then I can't afford it.

 

Call me a cynic but I'm not buying any of it. First the FD... then the timing chain... and now the engine?

Do they honestly want you to believe that they misdiagnosed a blown engine as a bad fuel distributor?
Please get your car out of there. Pull the valve covers and take some videos of the timing chain and the sprockets on the ends of the cams while a helper cranks the engine and post them here. We'll diagnose the problem for you. If the engine is actually blown we'll be able to determine that but either way... if your indy diagnosed FD when the reality was the engine was blown then at the very least you need a new indy.

 

@Gina I sent you a PM... please email the video to me.

bTw… you might have mentioned the knock before now. A knock... depending on how solid the sound is... could very well be a game changer.


Having said that... the original diagnosis of a bad fuel distributor is now even more of a mystery.

Lets hope for the best.

 

Gina!

GET YOUR CAR OUT OF THERE!

These guys do NOT know what they are doing or talking about. They may be nice, but they're straight up idiots and are taking you for a ride. Tow the car back home and call around for a shop that knows what it is doing.

You are being taken advantage of!

You might as well withdraw $4 grand and light it on fire because that is what they're recommending you do.

Upload the videos to YouTube and link them here.

 

I just Forwarded you the videos Ed. I just realized I did not mention the knock; thought I did. My mind was going a mile a minute in my initial post.

 

I watched the videos you sent me... sorry to say, from what I see in the videos the diagnosis is correct... your engine is indeed blown. The timing chain guides broke which cause the chain (on the drivers side) to skip quite a few links which resulted in some valves hitting their pistons, at least 3 that I can see. The video doesn't show the passenger side but I believe the damage is usually restricted to the drives side when the chain skips rather than breaks).

Anywhere from $3K - $6K to repair (and the $3K number is being extremely optimistic).

Sorry.

 

@okyourabeast Thats what I’m going to do. I may Just have it towed to Mercedes just to get the final answer. I’m going call them when they open today and see how much it cost for them to diagnosis it.

 

Mercedes Remanufactured Engines
Here's a link I found for you. It lists engines specific to the Mercedes model.
There are other sources, too. Google rebuilt 1984 Mercedes 380SL engine.

Also, here's a link to Mercedes:
https://www.mbusa.com/mercedes/service_and_parts/remanufactured_parts

 

Hey, Gina! Any news or updates?