P0346 left intake y49/4 part # 2761560790, see attachments.

 

P0346 left intake y49/4 part # 2761560790, see attachments.

View attachment 2632534
View attachment 2632533

Thank you for sharing. Where did you get your PDF instructions? I need to replace my cam exhaust and intake gears and adjust timing.

 

Thank you so much! I'll work on it and update the forum if that's the only problem I need to fix.

 

I finally replaced the solenoid y49/4 after breaking 2 bolts!! Cleared code and SEL went away. Car is smooth again.

A lesson learned. I tried to reuse the old bolts thinking 5 NM is not much to worry about. To my big surprise one snapped half way in. So had to wait a few days before new bolts arrive but even one of the new bolt also snapped before I could torque to the spec. Anyone has this problem before?

 

I'm getting the same code now on my M276 ML350. How did you know whether to replace the solenoid or the camshaft position sensor?

 

Those are aluminum bolts, they will shear off. 5NM is basically snug, you don't torque it down.

 

I think you can change the passenger bank one without removing the intake manifold but definitely not the driver side bank ones. Or should I say, if there is a way, I don't know of it and if you go to a shop, they're likely going to take off the intake.

Something to note though...I had my sensors changed on drivers side recently. I had P0346 and it was the only code. I really thought changing sensors would fix my issue. Changing sensors only helped with extended cranking. My car still rattled horribly at start-up, and now I'm replacing the left intake camshaft (it's definitely worn-out) and the camshaft adjuster. Praying this is the solution. I say that to say...it may be the sensor but if you're seeing other symptoms, it may be the camshaft, the adjuster or a combo of the two.

 

Thanks. I dread removing the manifold just to get to the camshaft sensor.

 

????????? Where are you looking at? All four camshaft sensors can be replaced without removing anything.

 

????????? Where are you looking at? All four camshaft sensors can be replaced without removing anything.


driver side. #1 and #2 are camshaft magnets. #3 is camshaft sensor, under the manifold. I can’t find the 2nd camshaft sensor. This is a 2012 E350 M276 engine. Thanks.

 

This is the part I'm referring to when I say you have the remove the intake manifold to replace the camshaft position sensors.

The parts you have labeled as 1 and 2 (camshaft magnets/solenoids) are super easy to replace and do not require removal of intake manifold.

 

This is the part I'm referring to when I say you have the remove the intake manifold to replace the camshaft position sensors. View attachment 2737662

The parts you have labeled as 1 and 2 (camshaft magnets/solenoids) are super easy to replace and do not require removal of intake manifold.

This is the part I'm referring to when I say you have the remove the intake manifold to replace the camshaft position sensors. View attachment 2737662

The parts you have labeled as 1 and 2 (camshaft magnets/solenoids) are super easy to replace and do not require removal of intake manifold.

And where is the 2nd camshaft sensor on the driver side? Thanks.

 

Oh, I was thinking M272. Still, on the M276 it's super easy to remove the intake manifold. I think there's less than 4 or 5 bolts total. You have a E class, a lot easier to remove it compared to a ML W166.

 

If you ever plan to take off and then take manifold. You better have purchased the new intake gaskets. They are pressure gasket. When you get ready to reinstall if you see any blue on the intake bolts you would have to refresh them and get blue Loctite. The torque is only between possibly 10 to 15 lb but stop at it's a two-step torque process start slow at 7 the blue tightening will start to bond which will give you a different rating of the completion torque. These are notes to look at and understand when using blue Loctite anywhere. And I was told many times to start from Center on both sides outwards. Good luck give me the force be with you.

 

No, this car has 4. If you remove the intake manifold, you will see the missing 4th.

 

Correction: There are 4 camshaft position sensors...there are 4 camshafts, so duh...4 sensors idk what I was thinking. anyway lol

If you skip to 12:07, you will see him remove both of the driver bank sensors.

 

One more question - some people use a pigtail wire extender to prevent oil from leaking into the wiring and eventually the ECU. Is it necessary or where can I buy the kit for the Camshaft sensor, not the Camshaft magnet. Thanks.

 

The timing chain cover on the M276's are notorious for seeping oil. In both pictures, I can see lots of oil residue around the timing cover and the cam magnets. If untreated, the oil can make it's way into the ECU through the harness and that's when the fun really begins.

 

The problem for Cam Magnet and Position sensors are oil leaking inside of connector. then the oil will all go into ECU. Sounds a bit crazy but very common issue with M272 and M276 engine as well as some other engines. I highly recommend to change both com positions and Magnet sensors. Mine is M276 so it needs 4 pieces each.

 

One of my magnets that was easily accessible was leaking oil for sure. I changed it and cleaned several other connectors. Error code comes on and off on it's own. very weird. I'm going to have to replace more.

Does P0346 indicate driver's side or passenger side?

 

P0346 seems camshaft position sensor error. Sooner or later, all cam position sensor will leak. Better change them all before oil go into ECU which cost over 1k…

 

The dealer cost you a lot more for ECU…

 

You will want to tackle the root cause which is removing the timing covers and re-sealing them.

 

Going to tackle this job next weekend after all of the parts arrive. I have had just over 100K trouble free miles but now have a bad ignition coil so I'll replace all 6 IC and the plugs too. I do see a little oil seepage around timing cover and position sensor/magnets, therefore, will replace all 4 of each and reseal the covers. I figure that I might as well do it all at once, rather than piecemeal. And then hope for another 100K trouble free miles.
The original poster reported that he broke two bolts. My understanding is that these bolts are torqued to 9nm. Not much at all. Correct? Has anyone else had issues with these bolts breaking during this repair? Does the blue paint on the head of the bolt mean that it is a one time use item and should be replace? Before I dive in, I'm wondering if I should pick up a full set of new bolts? Finally, does the WIS call for anti-seize or light lube on the threads? (I have lots of experience on other makes, but this will be my 1st time working on this car.)
Thanks,
-Mike

 

I just had my manifold off of my 2012 E350, Actually had the manifold off twice. You can see notes in the post about timing chain start up rattle under my name West. You may find oil in the manifold when you remove it. If so you will be looking at also replacing the Oil Separator, Crankcase ventilation valve. Some also call this the PCV or positive crankcase ventilation. It sits on the passenger side up against the firewall attached to the head Behind the High Pressure pump. The manifold comes off pretty easy just go slow and find all the attachements, I think there are about 7 wires and hoses that connect to the manifold. The throttle body plug can’t be seen until the manifold is lifted up and there is a vacuum line on the driver side rear that needs to be disconected but removal is only about a 15 minute job. I broke no bolts, I had ordered in extras just in case but did not break any. Be careful as already instructed the bolts with blue paint on the heads tells you they are aluminum and subject to easy breakage. Make sure the threads are clean before install and a little anti seize is not a bad idea. 5nm is not much torque.

 

Removed the manifold, no issues. Tackled the right bank first. Camshaft solenoids, position sensors and front cover all removed with no issues. Cover resealed and everything reassembled and torqued to 5nm. Time consuming but easy. Left bank sensors replaced, everything out of the way, and bolts loosened so that I can tackle the cover and solenoids today.
First bummer is that I need to get a 14mm 12pt deep or spark socket for plug removal. Could have sworn that I had one, but noooooo. All that I have are 6 points! Phoned and visited 3 parts stores and Lowes tool center but no luck.
Second bummer is that there is a little oil in & around the manifold. I really don’t want to tackle the Oil Separator, Crankcase ventilation valve. It looks like a PITA. I’m good a working in the blind, but really hate doing it.
Ugh, so much for an easy quick job!!!!!

 

Removed the manifold, no issues. Tackled the right bank first. Camshaft solenoids, position sensors and front cover all removed with no issues. Cover resealed and everything reassembled and torqued to 5nm. Time consuming but easy. Left bank sensors replaced, everything out of the way, and bolts loosened so that I can tackle the cover and solenoids today.
First bummer is that I need to get a 14mm 12pt deep or spark socket for plug removal. Could have sworn that I had one, but noooooo. All that I have are 6 points! Phoned and visited 3 parts stores and Lowes tool center but no luck.
Second bummer is that there is a little oil in & around the manifold. I really don’t want to tackle the Oil Separator, Crankcase ventilation valve. It looks like a PITA. I’m good a working in the blind, but really hate doing it.
Ugh, so much for an easy quick job!!!!! View attachment 2813537

Hi, I'm looking into tackling the sensor under the manifold myself. Are there any one-time use bits such as gaskets that need to be replaced before the manifold can be reinstalled? I also want to avoid disconnecting too much stuff if possible, such as the vacuum hoses in the back, will I be able to remove the bolts and just lift the front of the manifold up to get to the sensor?

Thanks!

 

While the manifold is off look inside the intake ports and see if your valves have build up of carbon on them. A bad case the back of the valve builds up like a tee pee. The carbon build up chokes off your intake and reduces power. The higher the miles the more carbon build up you might have. At 87,000 miles mine had very little.
To replace the PCV is a challenge. The High Pressure pump must be removed and the fuel lines. It is not that hard but it takes time.

 

Well, it only gets better...not! Finished up the left bank...camshaft solenoids, position sensors and front cover resealed with no issues.
Did not want to but figured as long as everything is apart I might as well tackle the Oil Separator Crankcase ventilation valve too. As I was pondering the job I noticed something odd. Huge mouse nest in the valley of the block. UGH!!!! Then noticed a mouse wrapped around a hose (see photo.) Looks like the like the little guy had been there for a while or, maybe this is a Mercedes Engineering feature to soak up oil around the hose fitting? Showed the photo to the dealership parts guy and he said that they didn't stock mice wicks. LOL 😂
I fished out most of the nest before removing the lower intakes bc I didn't want it falling into the heads. What a mess!!! Replaced the Oil Separator Crankcase ventilation valve, new O-ring, gaskets, etc. That was a PITA of a job. Everything back together without a hitch. Oh, and I used orange and pink colored zip ties to re-secure wires. That should make the next mechanic or owner smile and scratch their heads a bit! Overall, as everyone says on this site, it wasn't difficult, just time consuming. It took far more time than I expected or wanted to spent on my daily driver. Hopefully, it goes another 100K of trouble free miles. But if it doesn't, I'll leave the next repair to a local shop.
This site has a lot of great information and thanks to those who provided guidance. Greatly appreciated. After this experience, I think I'd rather spend my time working on my antique rides.

 

Mighty Mouse has been found! Hope it runs great again.

 

What's the screw size setting deep on the manifold cover I'm having some issues I'm trying to fix the car myself e350 w212 2014

 

E8 torx, though 8mm deep socket works.

 

I was reading on a S550 forum that the aluminum (blue tipped) bolts had been replaced with steel bolts due to breakage. Anyone have the original and/or new part numbers? Or bolt size? Would be helpful

 

Taking the manifold off is intimidating but really not that hard to do. I did notice a black/blue wire cut and bangkng from both intake sensors. though after taking it off is not that hard at all.

 

If you use an inch pound torque wrench on the aluminum bolts as instructed they work just fine.