I have just started to pull my E350 engine because it now has the two dreaded engine codes and will not pass smog check in CA, codes P0016 and P0017 or 1200 and 1208 depending on what tool reads the codes. Sad because the engine still runs flawless and I have no desire to take it out for repair. I have read several posts about how hard this job is and that it is super technical. As far as engine removal, and I am not finished removing the engine yet but I thought I would share the start of this adventure.
So far everything from the factory is laid out well, fairly easy to take apart, and everything has followed common sense. I removed the engine cover and air cleaner. Disconnected the battery and then disconnected the main engine wire harness at the top of the engine, very easy only 3 connections? Now I put the front of my car up on tall jacks so the front tires were about 9" off the ground to get some clearance underneath and removed both front tires. Removed the rock shields from under the engine and the second one a little further back. This give pretty good visibility to continue work.
I removed only the front exhaust section, from the header to the connection behind the tranny. I had read that this is really difficult and took far too much time. Not on this E350 it was easy compared to many other cars I have worked on. So far nothing hard. While under there I traced the transmission coolant lines and unbolted them from the engine hold down straps, I think there were 4 of them. Next the power steering hose hold down which was bolted to the front of the oil pan. Pulled the 3 bolts out of the compressor so it is now loose from the engine. So far I did not have 3 hours into this project but all went straight forward no surprises.
Going into this job I purchased a set of 1/4" drive swivel sockets, these were recommended so you can pull the timing cover without pulling the heads off, allows reaching some of the hidden bolts. I ended up using these twice already on some of the torx head bolts and the engine is still in the car.
The motor mounts look to be the easiest I have ever seen, two bolts that are accessable and go straight up from the bottom, maybe a 1 minute removal for both. I like it so far. The tranny to engine bolts seem to all be accessible, I will come at those with a long extension, maybe 24" with a swivel socket.
Tomorrow I plan to figure out what to do with my power steering pump and hoses. Ideally I would like to unbolt the pump and leave it in the body so I don't have to drain the system but that does not look possible yet. Any Tips on this?
I still need to drain the coolant and engine oil. It looks to me like there is plenty of room for the engine to slide forward and lift out without removing the fans or radiator?
The tranny cooler lines run right against the engine block, not sure if I can pull the engine up and away without disconnecting those two lines from the tranny? Anyone try this?
I could be way off but unless I reach an unreachable bolt that slows the process the engine should be out tomorrow.
I am hoping for any tips from those that have already walked this road.
Thanks
Mark
So far everything from the factory is laid out well, fairly easy to take apart, and everything has followed common sense. I removed the engine cover and air cleaner. Disconnected the battery and then disconnected the main engine wire harness at the top of the engine, very easy only 3 connections? Now I put the front of my car up on tall jacks so the front tires were about 9" off the ground to get some clearance underneath and removed both front tires. Removed the rock shields from under the engine and the second one a little further back. This give pretty good visibility to continue work.
I removed only the front exhaust section, from the header to the connection behind the tranny. I had read that this is really difficult and took far too much time. Not on this E350 it was easy compared to many other cars I have worked on. So far nothing hard. While under there I traced the transmission coolant lines and unbolted them from the engine hold down straps, I think there were 4 of them. Next the power steering hose hold down which was bolted to the front of the oil pan. Pulled the 3 bolts out of the compressor so it is now loose from the engine. So far I did not have 3 hours into this project but all went straight forward no surprises.
Going into this job I purchased a set of 1/4" drive swivel sockets, these were recommended so you can pull the timing cover without pulling the heads off, allows reaching some of the hidden bolts. I ended up using these twice already on some of the torx head bolts and the engine is still in the car.
The motor mounts look to be the easiest I have ever seen, two bolts that are accessable and go straight up from the bottom, maybe a 1 minute removal for both. I like it so far. The tranny to engine bolts seem to all be accessible, I will come at those with a long extension, maybe 24" with a swivel socket.
Tomorrow I plan to figure out what to do with my power steering pump and hoses. Ideally I would like to unbolt the pump and leave it in the body so I don't have to drain the system but that does not look possible yet. Any Tips on this?
I still need to drain the coolant and engine oil. It looks to me like there is plenty of room for the engine to slide forward and lift out without removing the fans or radiator?
The tranny cooler lines run right against the engine block, not sure if I can pull the engine up and away without disconnecting those two lines from the tranny? Anyone try this?
I could be way off but unless I reach an unreachable bolt that slows the process the engine should be out tomorrow.
I am hoping for any tips from those that have already walked this road.
Thanks
Mark
