Where did you check the fuses and what were their numbers?

Did you check to see that the fuses had 12v while the key was on?

 

I checked under passenger kick panel. It had a list of fuses on panel. There are 2, 30 amp fuses 1for driver and 1 for passenger seat. Both seats don't move at all. The previous owner didn't even know that it didn't work because they never adjusted the seats I guess. I pulled out fuses and saw they are intact . I replaced anyway but no change.

 

You checked fuse 8 20amp and 11 30amp? Both seats use the same fuse. Doubtfull you have 2 bad control modules (each seat has it's own)!

Then relay #15 and I don't have a number for this but a relay called the "comfort relay" that feeds fuse 11. Don't know why but it's number is not on the wiring diagram I have.

 

yes the cover of the kick panel had a fuse separate for driver's side and passenger. Maybe a 2000 ml320 is different for later models? I had a 99 ml430 to compare it and it was different also.

 

There was a question in post #2. Do power seat fuses have 12V with key in position 2?

 

I tried testing it with key on but nothing, it was reading zero. It was during nighttime, maybe
i was not hitting the contacts and it is difficult ,since I can barely squeeze in the little space since the seat is sitting forward. I did switch out the fuse with a new one before going online and it still did not work.

 

is there any way to move the seat manually just so i can drive it? it is a struggle just moving the car from my driveway because of the space? I have the drivers seat unbolted but can't find anything disconnected and I was hoping I can adjust it with a socket or something.

 

Remove seat switch, find two wires going to motor m1. White/pink. Apply 12V briefly. If seat moves wrong way reverse polarity.

 

Have you checked your relay?
Have you removed the fuse and checked for power on the hot side at the fuse?

 

Also the footwell fuse box is modular those red brackets pop in and out kinda of like circuit breakers. Just checking the fuse and relay for the fuel pump I dislodged the bracket and had to snap it back in. Could be also that the contacts on the back of the red bracket are damaged or corroded. Sorry about the mis-info on the fuses that was off of the mitchell's diagram It shows the same fuse and relay numbers for both seats.

 

Please UPDATE YOUR PROFILE in the PDF below.

 

Yes I will. I will try to take a picture of my w163.

 

Here is the wiring diagram both seats are the same except Mitchell has both the left and right seats labeled as fuse 11 this is a misprint.

Fuse 8 is heating circuit
Fuse 10 left
Fuse 11 right

To power up the motor you can make a power source out of an old flash light that plugs into the12v socket. and has a double divided cord like house hold lamp cord.
Just snip off the light, strip and put the desired connector on alligator clips, etc, that way it is fused.

There is also the possibility your right sunroof drain is leaking and has cause some corrosion.

 

Here is the wiring diagram both seats are the same except Mitchell has both the left and right seats labeled as fuse 11 this is a misprint.

Fuse 8 is heating circuit
Fuse 10 left
Fuse 11 right

To power up the motor you can make a power source out of an old flash light that plugs into the12v socket. and has a double divided cord like house hold lamp cord.
Just snip off the light, strip and put the desired connector on alligator clips, etc, that way it is fused.

There is also the possibility your right sunroof drain is leaking and has cause some corrosio





seat ci

 

When I first got my ML, the seats were stuck forward.. The kick panel fuse/relay box was trash.. The leak in the sun roof drain.. did it in.. Any signs of water damage?

 

Thanks bobby I pointed out that the contacts for the seat fuse/relay bracket could have corrosion but forgot to mention why.

 

Kohi reference the owners manual if you do not have one you can find PDF's on line but I believe the tool you are referring to is an emergency crank to open or close the sunroof manually. For the sunroof there is a drain tube that runs from the front corner, down the A pillar to the foot well and out this gets clog or cracks, water travels down and leaks in the car foot well area. I never have had to deal with a leak, it sounds like Bobby has..
There are many threads about drain leak.

I would for now just to get the seat in a better position, pull the fore aft motor plug from the controller and apply power directly to the motor via it's cable only.

 

The bus bar (12v hot always) feeds F10 (L seat) F11 (R seat) through K1 relay.. You can jump the bus directly to F10 and F11 by removing the relay.. Make the jump from the back side of the fuse box.. The blade connectors on the plug-in relays will fail if corroded.. Even if cleaned, the blade connectors will over heat and will continue to fail.. The whole box needs to be replaced OR.. the individual "take -offs" can be replaced.. From the back side, the take-offs are a snap-in mount.. I'm thinking there are a couple of torx holding the box to the frame.. It comes off pretty easy and you can flip it over to work on it without disconnecting anything..

PS.. You need to use a heavy gauge wire to make the jump.. I wouldn't use anything less than 12 gauge

 

Not sure what the fix was for the thread starter, but I just had this happen.
Fuses fine. No water issues.
The relay was junk. Grabbed on of the same part # from the ML430 and
the seats work.