:thumbsup: great job greg.

 

DIY UPDATE

Thanks Greg, I just added this to our DIY section.:thumbsup:

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210-e-class/1327823-diy-procedures-faqs-updated-07-07-07-a.html

 

Greg,
This is a good one. I think I'm not the only one that cleaned the wrong part of the MAF - namely the more visible wire with the resistor on. I'll clean it out in the right place and try it again.

 

Thanks Greg, I purchased the cleaner but I have heard if no codes come up not to touch it. So I will hold on to the cleaner with hopes never to use it but if I have to I have it on hand. What are the differences one feels when replacing or cleaning MAF?

 

Thanks Greg, I purchased the cleaner but I have heard if no codes come up not to touch it. So I will hold on to the cleaner with hopes never to use it but if I have to I have it on hand. What are the differences one feels when replacing or cleaning MAF?

Hey, Sly.

Throughout the myriad MAF threads I've tried to stress that there often are no symptoms of a failing MAF beyond a trouble code or CEL (a "fault condition"). Since in my experience cleaning resolves something less than half of MAF issues, cleaning an MAF following a fault condition -- if contamination was not the cause -- will result in no difference to the driver.

However, when the MAF is dirty and that triggers the fault condition, then cleaning it will restore some amount of driveability, fuel economy, emissions control and performance.

The same holds true when the fault condition is unrelated to contamination and the MAF is replaced: the driver may sense some additional performance, throttle response, smoothness, etc.

For a good one look down in the sensor source thread, an oil driver changed his MAF and immediately noticed an improvement in driveability, smoothness, performance, etc.

As you know I recently replaced my MAF (after cleaning attempts failed to clear the code) and I've yet to notice anything. Sometimes I think it has a bit better throttle response and shifts perhaps smoother, but that's just as likely to be a psychosomatic response (basically, I changed it, so I think I notice something).

Bottom Line? You may not notice any difference after replacing or cleaning a MAF, but at least you'll know you've restored your car and it's emissions systems to proper working order. And your gaze won't be constantly drawn to the CEL.

Take care and enjoy the ride,
Greg

 

I would like to hear success ratio in MAF cleaning. I had 2 MAFs going bad on my cars and I've got 2 more from somebody else. All of them passed visual inspection as being perfect with no signs of dirt or damage. I sprayed them all with MAF cleaner to come to ZERO success rate.
Am I in bad luck?
Edited for spelling correction

 

I would like to hear sauces ratio in MAF cleaning. I had 2 MAFs going bad on my cars and I've got 2 more from somebody else. All of them passed visual inspection as being perfect with no signs of dirt or damage. I sprayed them all with MAF cleaner to come to ZERO success rate.
Am I in bad luck?

Hey, Kajtek1.

I think you're just seeing reality. For the stories of success I hear relative to MAF cleaning, I hear far more that it doesn't do anything. For domestic brands it seems to work more often, but even then it's probably only around 50% success rate.

With all your MB's you're the perfect candidate to buy the sensor inserts. Maybe Ron at GermanStar will give you a quantity discount.

Take care and enjoy the ride,
Greg

 

Thanks for the write up Greg.
I will try this the next time I get the CEL for MAF.

 

My experience: the torx screw has a little protruding index at the center. I bought a set of tool from eBay, but found out that they don't work with this type of torx screw and ended up having to go to Pepboys to buy another set.

 

Greg,

That is excellent work.

thank you

 

My experience: the torx screw has a little protruding index at the center. I bought a set of tool from eBay, but found out that they don't work with this type of torx screw and ended up having to go to Pepboys to buy another set.

Hey, cerritos. Hence the reference in the DIY to the "security" torx screw. That's what that dimple is in the center of the screw.

You don't need the special tip (you can use small vise-grips to grab the shoulder of the screw) but if you want it I'm told that Kragen/Checker/Shucks sells a set for like $5.

Take care and enjoy the ride,
Greg

 

Autozone has a 9 piece saftey torx set for under $10. here's a set for $85
T5 T6 T7 T8 T9 T10 T15 T20 T25 T27 T30 T40 T45 torx bits Made in Germany but as often as one uses them I don't see the point unless you are totally anal and must have top of the line.

 

hi Greg

you haven't by any chance a PDF version of the sump cover under the car

Adam

 

 

Cleaned the MAF sensor insert rather than replacing unit which my dealer quoted as approximately $500.00 for the part. The sensor is not sold separately by the dealer. Followed the procedures of those who preceded me by using CRC MAF cleaner. Started after taking negative off of battery and continuing with procedure. It has been three days and the CEL has disappeared. It appears to run better; although, this may only be "in my head". Ordered insert for $139 from the internet in case this does not work. Eventually, I will have to replace the insert.

Thanks for info that saved me hundreds.

Entire procedure took less than 20 minutes. The need to utilize vise grips on the torx seurity screw took the most time. Searched the area of New Brunswick, NJ for torx security bit and was not able to find same.

 

I always wonder how do they justity such prices, $500 for the piece of plastic and a bit of electronic? for the money you get a 32" LCD TV set. Nobody can tell me that the MAF is more sophisticated or produced in small amount.

Cut-throat is the only reason!

BTW, is there an insert for 1996 E320? Thanks!

 

Usually this has to be done at about what milage. My 2001 e320 4 matic has 85000KM and the check engine light came on yesterday could this be the cause?

 

Hey, Hi Fi.

There are dozens of sensors in the car, any one of which may go out of range and trigger the CEL. The ONLY way to know is to head to an Autozone (some other parts stores do this as well) and have the codes read. Don't rely on their diagnosis, just get the codes and either google them, search them on this site, or post them and we'll help you get to the bottom of it.

Also, don't ever ignore a CEL and hope it will take care of itself. While that can happen, it's exceedingly rare, and what is more likely to happen (depending on what triggered the CEL of course) is that you may end up damaging another component.

There is a deals sticky that provides the link for an excellent little code reader, $40 online but the shipping to Canada may be prohibitive. Reads codes, erases them, comes with a disc full of diagnostic codes and their meanings. Very handy to have around.

Take care and enjoy the ride,
Greg

 

Gregs 210,
I do always appreciate your contribution in this forum. My MAF sensor cleaned in May 2007 just the way you instructed still works fine.

 

the DIY does not apply to my car. The MAF sensor on 1996 E320 is quite diffirent, how is it cleaned?

 

You

could pull the insert and check numbers but I have not found one for the 6banger,
Your Parts Search Returned 3 Part(s)
confirm part by exam to make sure the proper one is ordered,from autohausaz.com ony about 50 bucks more for the whole unit.

security torx bits are about 7 bucks for a small set at local auto chain stores or harborfreight tools.
ohlord:bowdown:

 

Mucho Kudos

excellent job on the pictorial. this job was a snap, thx.

 

Newbie to the site - Let me thank you for a awesome job. I am going to clean my MAF on tomorrow. I took it to the shop that specializes in European cars and after the analytical and test the told me that the MAF was the cause of my CEL. I had taken it there two days earlier and they informed me that they had resolved the problems but the CEL came back on in route to home. That's actually when they told me that it would need the MAF.

Pchat68

2001 E320 Sport & 1988 300E

 

So you can buy a brand new MAF or just part and reuse the old part, cause I keep getting search returns range from MAF meter, to MAF insert, to MAF core. I'm so confused.

 

The whole assembly from autohausaz.com has dropped substantially in price so that is the easiest way to go; Germanstar has indicated they can no longer get the insert so if he's run out the assembly is the best option.

But the question is why are you thinking of replacing it? If it fails you will get a CEL and then the common codes for it, don't throw money away unless you actually have a problem.

Take care and enjoy the ride,
Greg

 

You can buy either the full MAF or just the insert. Insert is a lot cheaper and takes less than 5 minutes to swap, but you need security torx to remove old one. But whatever you decide, don't buy one on E-Bay, lots of horror stories on that!!!
Get one from Autohausaz, Importec or some other site mentioned in this forum. They all are a lot cheaper than the dealer.

 

Just got my '99 E55 back from a check up and amoung others I have codes P0100 (current and stored) and P0130-015 (not defined). I'm going to try clean the MAF sensor as per the instructions but what cleaner do I use? I searched a couple of shops and can't find anything labelled MAF cleaner. What about carb and choke cleaner? anything else?

Help appreciated and very well written pictorial!

Geo1400

 

I was able to find the CRC brand MAF Cleaner at my local Advance Auto Parts.

I believe as these sensors have become more prevalent in modern cars over the years, the shops need to keep this cleaning product in their stores.

 

Try this site : CRC Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner, 11 Wt Oz
I haven't purchase anything from them but shows the CRC brand maf cleaner.

 

Well that clearly says don't use carb cleaner!

I need to find MAF cleaner, i'm living in Dubai and these things aren't easy to find, DIY home mechanics is not a big thing over here!


Thanks anyway and if someone thinks of an alternative way/chemical to clean the sensor, please post.

Thanks

Geo1400

 

Carb

cleaner has lubricating oils.
The very least if no crc which leaves no residue, would be a good electronics cleaner and touch it with nothing but the spray.
:bowdownhlord

 

cleaner has lubricating oils.
The very least if no crc which leaves no residue, would be a good electronics cleaner and touch it with nothing but the spray.
:bowdownhlord

Well, that's why I mentioned those two brands, in particular the B-12 chemtool leaves nothing behind. I think the MAF cleaner evaporates a bit more quickly, having used both recently if he can't find MAF cleaner that would remain my suggestion. I don't study the labels on electrical cleaners, but the two I've used in the past both said "cleans and protects" on the label, which at least to me suggests it is leaving behind something you probably don't want on a MAF surface.

That said, I agree with you that generically speaking, carb cleaners have lubricants in the mix, and two of the biggest sellers (gumout and stp) have lots of lubricants and are definitely to be avoided (gumout should be called "gumallover", I used that crap once on some sticking linkage on a Motorcraft 2BBL, the entire thing ended up with a sticky film all over the outside of it). I can't speak to all of the other brands out there, just CRC and B-12, which again is why I suggested them. Surely he should try to find MAF cleaner, but if not...

Take care and enjoy the hot Dubai drive,
Greg