Okay, folks, clearly I was thinking of all of you while I was on vacation.
Attached is the PDF version of the MAF R&R process.
The end of it also includes a section on cleaning the MAF sensor.
Send your checks to World Vision.
And as always, take care and enjoy the ride!
Greg
__________________ When you learn from your own mistakes, that's experience.
When you learn from the mistakes of others, that's wisdom.
When you fail to learn from any mistakes, that's government.
Vehicle: 2001 SLK 320(93K Miles), 2002 E320 Special Edition(112K Miles)
Location: South Bay Area,L.A., CA
Posts: 946
Greg,
This is a good one. I think I'm not the only one that cleaned the wrong part of the MAF - namely the more visible wire with the resistor on. I'll clean it out in the right place and try it again.
Thanks Greg, I purchased the cleaner but I have heard if no codes come up not to touch it. So I will hold on to the cleaner with hopes never to use it but if I have to I have it on hand. What are the differences one feels when replacing or cleaning MAF?
Thanks Greg, I purchased the cleaner but I have heard if no codes come up not to touch it. So I will hold on to the cleaner with hopes never to use it but if I have to I have it on hand. What are the differences one feels when replacing or cleaning MAF?
Hey, Sly.
Throughout the myriad MAF threads I've tried to stress that there often are no symptoms of a failing MAF beyond a trouble code or CEL (a "fault condition"). Since in my experience cleaning resolves something less than half of MAF issues, cleaning an MAF following a fault condition -- if contamination was not the cause -- will result in no difference to the driver.
However, when the MAF is dirty and that triggers the fault condition, then cleaning it will restore some amount of driveability, fuel economy, emissions control and performance.
The same holds true when the fault condition is unrelated to contamination and the MAF is replaced: the driver may sense some additional performance, throttle response, smoothness, etc.
For a good one look down in the sensor source thread, an oil driver changed his MAF and immediately noticed an improvement in driveability, smoothness, performance, etc.
As you know I recently replaced my MAF (after cleaning attempts failed to clear the code) and I've yet to notice anything. Sometimes I think it has a bit better throttle response and shifts perhaps smoother, but that's just as likely to be a psychosomatic response (basically, I changed it, so I think I notice something).
Bottom Line? You may not notice any difference after replacing or cleaning a MAF, but at least you'll know you've restored your car and it's emissions systems to proper working order. And your gaze won't be constantly drawn to the CEL.
I would like to hear success ratio in MAF cleaning. I had 2 MAFs going bad on my cars and I've got 2 more from somebody else. All of them passed visual inspection as being perfect with no signs of dirt or damage. I sprayed them all with MAF cleaner to come to ZERO success rate.
Am I in bad luck?
Edited for spelling correction
I would like to hear sauces ratio in MAF cleaning. I had 2 MAFs going bad on my cars and I've got 2 more from somebody else. All of them passed visual inspection as being perfect with no signs of dirt or damage. I sprayed them all with MAF cleaner to come to ZERO success rate.
Am I in bad luck?
Hey, Kajtek1.
I think you're just seeing reality. For the stories of success I hear relative to MAF cleaning, I hear far more that it doesn't do anything. For domestic brands it seems to work more often, but even then it's probably only around 50% success rate.
With all your MB's you're the perfect candidate to buy the sensor inserts. Maybe Ron at GermanStar will give you a quantity discount.
My experience: the torx screw has a little protruding index at the center. I bought a set of tool from eBay, but found out that they don't work with this type of torx screw and ended up having to go to Pepboys to buy another set.