Sick resource! I will be trying to replicate for my W202.

EDIT: About to place my order. Thanks so much for sharing the wealth that is information! Just ran outside and took off my rear wheel and what do i find? Same exact upper camber strut as 190E.

The TEST: Go to http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/search/?searchType=global&N=0&Ntt=w0133-1621909&submit= and select any W201, then any W202. You will notice those parts fit either.

Again, this is a huge step in advancing the DIY gearheads a step forward. I can see this plug-n-play suspension link assembly picking up real quick! Hasn't even crossed my mind. Will keep this place updated.

 

This suspension setup was used on MANY Mercedes Chassis...So this kind of modification is valid and should work on the following chassis:

w124,w129,w170,w171,w201,w202,w203,w208,w209,w210

 

Any shots of the bearings on the rod ends? I doubt anyone with a Merc in the US would or even could but what is the max negative degree setting with a tested load? Those don't look like spherical bearings.

 

Done.



IMG_0004 by jumph4x, on Flickr


IMG_0002 by jumph4x, on Flickr


IMG_0017 by jumph4x, on Flickr


IMG_0012 by jumph4x, on Flickr

Thank you SO MUCH. $85 total as advertised. Loving it.

Please send thanks to the guy on the other forum!

 

I just ordered a set myself, I cant wait till it ships. Just an aditional note to this posting. Make sure to order a 9 inch long aluminum tie rod sleve I went back and took a look at the original post at the rev and 16V4NRBRGR is very clear about ordering a 9 inch sleeve as opposed to a ten inch one. This way you can start at stock length then slowly dial out the negative camber.
This is all great info guys thanks a lot!!

 

In the last pic it shows the new adjustable rod at the 1130 position, another shorter rod at about 2:00 and the toe rod down about 5:00 . Do these other rods not also need to be replaced with adjustable units? Thanks

 

You don't have to, if your goal is lowering the car and adjusting for camber no. If you have plans of tracking you car or other things then you could, but I'm not sure about what parts are applicable for them.

I just replaced my camber arms and replaced the rest with stock replacements.

 

Adjustable Camber Arms

Thanks JamesDean, My CLK 320 also has been lowered prior to my purchase and with 18's I was getting the extreme rear tire wear on the insides of both rear tires, I have had (just today) the adjustable arms installed (the long ones) at the 1130 position and the mechanic is insistant that without the other arms-units being able to be adjusted that the arms would fight each other with the toe in increasing as the rear negative camber is cranked out... I see a lot of one bar per side kits and just a few 2 bar (one shorter than the other) available...many more 1 bar per side I've noted.. also is there an adjustment on the stock rear toe arm?... One MB mechanic says there is. I couldnt see any as I was looking and taking pics under there... Thanks for your quick response previous...

 

I'm not sure about the adjustment of the other bars, i just have the camber ones installed, my car aligned up no problem.

 

There is a shortcoming with this camber arm. That is that it adjusts the top of the wheel outwards to correct negative camber.

So with large wheels or tires, there is going to be a seriously reduced clearance between the tire and inner fender.

This is why I always recommend K-Mac camber kits, they act on the lower arm and don't have this problem. They also are more durable in the bushings and are easily adjusted without taking wheels off the car.

 

Im running 17" wheels right now and dont have any clearance problems, and my car is lowered. Granted I am running only 40 series tires though.. I'm not having any clearance problems.

I looked at K-Mac's website didnt see price listings for the rears but the fronts were $400. Slightly out of my budget.

 

This will be done! My camber in the rear is pretty far out. I'm afraid I'm gonna wear out the insides of my tires in the back.

 

Yes, the front kits are a bit dearer than the rear ones...

Don't forget also that eventually the original bushes chop out, so they have to be replaced anyway. Deduct that cost from the K-Mac kit cost and it becomes even more attractive.

 

Rod End Bushing Kit for 1/2 Inch Bolt

eh, $25, for three sets aint bad at all...so, $~105. But then again Idk what k-mac wants for their rears...

http://www.iapdirect.com/product.php?productid=41971

 

Anybody tell me if the rear toe can be adjusted on a 2003 CLK 320? Is there an eccentric in this linkage?

 

I know this is an old thread, but it's not too old. I'm hoping the members that have installed these can tell be a bit about them.

I've got adjustable arms as well but mine have the Heim Joints and are very noisy. Also I've read that these type of links can cause cracks to start in the sub-frame.

If you've installed these can you tell me if they are noisy at all? I'm hoping that by being actual bushings they'll be significantly quieter.

Also, how are they holding up? I know you can buy the replacement bushes for the arms but I'd still like to know what kind of life I can expect out of these.

They're a great price and easy to assemble so I'm hoping they'll be better than the ones I've got.

Thanks

 

Adjustable upper arms 1 year later..

Installed the arms last fall, put the car away for the winter, out this spring and had the negative camber cranked out to about 1/3 degree negative( in at the top just a little from about 1.5 degrees negative), was still getting the wear that I was trying to dial out, wore out another set of tires in a few months and 10K miles, found another axle and alignment shop that was able to sort out the toe in the rears, had been a little over 1/2" of total toe and now its 1/16" total. Consensus was that it was the excess toe that was causing the wear and not the excess neg camber... we will be watching the tires for uneven wear this fall.. hope I can get some reasonable wear out of this set.

 

...it was the excess toe that was causing the wear...

That's usually the culprit.

 

Well no one said if they were noisy at all. I take that to mean it's not an issue worth mentioning. I ordered my parts ($75.90 + $25.00 shipping to Canada) and will install them when they get here. I'll report back on my experience.

 

Hey All,

I need to make a set for my W203 2002 C320 wagon. Does anyone her made up arms for a W203? If so, can you tell me what part numbers you used. What length of rod should I start with?

TIA.

Henry

 

Used the same part numbers as the other posts and worked perfect. Good quality and much cheaper than others.

 

What size bolt is that going though the bushings?

 

did anyone see a difference while adjusting the camber rod after installing it? My 17's on my 2.6 are wearing on the inside on the rear. Will this make it adjustable so I can fix it?

 

This will. If you buy all the parts including the 9" aluminum tie-rod piece (not the 10") you can dial out the negative camber to get it closer to flat.

 

HELP!!!

i need negative camber on my w204 would the work at all for me?? or does anyone have any alternative

 

since has been a wile since you guys have installed them how are the arms holding up. The only thing that scars me is the aluminum rod. I'm afraid it might brake off or something, it is made out of aluminum after all. Any problem with that?

 

it's better than plastic

 

Mine are still on and going strong.

Almost three years later, no complaints here.

 

Thanks for the feed back guys

 

Just ordered a set. I'll post some pics of the install when everything arrives and I've got the car up on the lift.