Mercedes-Benz Forum banner

Keyless-Go, True Push Start and Remote Start Installed (and working)!!!!

28K views 32 replies 10 participants last post by  rayofsunshine  
#1 · (Edited)
Last week:
Me - Opens the hood and yelled: "GUH-DANG IT, ML. I don't like you right now, you better say sorry!!!". Then, fired 5 shots into the windshield...with my super-soaker and walked into the house.

Last night:
Me - "You're my best fwiend...I love you, sweetheart!"

Wife happened to walk by - "I guess you got the remote start keyless-go thing figured out, cuz it didn't look like you were talking to me...".


This morning. Remote started, left car keys at home and drove to work. No more pressing Lock/Unlock buttons, no more keys to carry/insert!

Thank You's to: Edcarls, Warm_mt_dew!

Will post a video, later!!! :D:D:D




***Video Update (HD)***
 

Attachments

#4 ·
Then I'm screwed! LOL.
There's a separate emergency antenna and a transponder ring inside the remote fob, in case the battery in the remote fob goes dead. I'd just wave the fob very close to the emergency antenna and it will unlock and allow the vehicle to be started.
I know you were talking about the vehicle battery and so maybe good idea to hide a key somewhere underneath the vehicle, or have a blank key cut to manually unlock...?
 
#3 ·
Interesting. I know they make modules and alarms...didn't think about push button though.
 
#5 ·
Advanced Keys - AK-104B Smart Key with Push Start System

The kit I bought works exactly the same as the one above in the link. The differences are: I bought mine from Ebay, the Pushstart button is a surface mount type vs having to drill a hole (Lexus type, from link), and costed half as much as the kit in the link.
 
#6 ·
But what about if you need to reset somethings for example you might have to reset the acceleration control if your battery dies and goes below 10volts. Then in order to reset it you would need to turn the key to position 2 for some time (Not start the car just position 2) and then back to position one (when you put the key in) What do you plan to do, I hope it would work out for you. But im eager to see the vid, looks like a cool concept!
 
#7 ·
The pushstart has the following sequence:
push 1st time: Ign 1 on
push 2nd time: Ign 2 on
push 3rd time: Off

To start: either push and hold for 2-3 seconds, or push down and hold footbrake and press button 0.5 seconds.

My set up is:
Removed the key blade from the switchblade fob -> inserted key blade and turn to ACC/ON position (this is to bypass the steering wheel lock) -> unplugged the ignition switch so I can keep the key blade at ACC/ON position without draining the battery -> mount the pushstart over the key cylinder to hide the key blade (first picture).

If I had to perform such procedure like you've mentioned, I would try with the pushstart. If that doesn't work, then unmount the pushstart, plug ignition switch back in and use the key blade (with the help of pliers).

These questions and scenarios are awesome. Thanks folks!! :thumbsup:
 
#9 ·
Auto Passive keyless entry car alarm with Emergency unlocking + Button Start | eBay

I didn't post it because I wasn't too happy with the wires or lack of. It doesn't have the (-) starter output wire / wire to a transponder bypass, dome light supervision, tach, etc...
It only have the following: Ign 1, Ign 2, ACC, Starter, 12+ V, door triggers (+/-), lock/unlock, parking lights, trunk, brake.

But I guess the bottom line is that it works.
 
#10 ·
What would the other things be for? And, would you write a DIY about how you installed.
 
#11 · (Edited)
cool project! the problem i see with this is that you bypassed the native immobilization system, the electronic as well as the mechanical one. (chip in key and steering wheel lock)

correct me if i am wrong but anyone with some decent electronic skills or an experienced thief could easily hot wire your car at this point by simple prying of the panel next to the ignition and connecting 3-4 wires.

I had my old ml320 also keyless and even started from my phone however with my new ml55 i am a little more worried about theft and i believe the CHIP key is still an amazing anti theft protection? is it not?

Def looking forward to seeing that video! :)

my old set up:
 
#13 ·
cool project! the problem i see with this is that you bypassed the native immobilization system, the electronic as well as the mechanical one. (chip in key and steering wheel lock)

correct me if i am wrong but anyone with some decent electronic skills or an experienced thief could easily hot wire your car at this point by simple prying of the panel next to the ignition and connecting 3-4 wires.

I had my old ml320 also keyless and even started from my phone however with my new ml55 i am a little more worried about theft and i believe the CHIP key is still an amazing anti theft protection? is it not?

Def looking forward to seeing that video! :)

my old set up:
That is AWESOME! I love it. That's some professional stuff! I can see my 19 month-old taking my phone and play around with the suv from the phone. LOL.

You are absolutely right about the potential problems, mentioned. It also came across my mind.
The module has 2 separate wires that I connected to the 2 wires going to / coming from the suv's immobilizer coil. I cut one of the coil's wire and connected, accordingly. This way, if somebody broke in and alarm activated the module will not allow the coil's identification of the chip be circuited through. Also, I planned on relocating/hiding those ignition/starting wires to a discrete location. Hopefully, these things will give them pro thieves a hard time and/or make them give up.

My main purpose was just to have the keyless-go function. The 2 baby boys ride in the back daily, so carrying both to/from suv plus other things and having to fiddle with the key FOB has been somewhat frustrating! :bowdown:
The kit came with the pushstart so I thought 'why not?'.
 
#16 ·
I forgot to do the max remote start range in the video and so I just tried it just now. I stepped back about 3.5 x the distance that I was in the video and it starts fine (3-4 car length?). Still, that's not far enough compared to the others I had. However, we live in a 3-story townhome and I was able to remote start from the top floor from the far end room.
Maybe the Advanced Keys have better range.
 
#17 ·
I want a remote start for mine...because I always warm up before driving. It's a PITA to walk outside to do it though.
 
#18 ·
How far would you have to walk to the ML? If it's just parked infront on the driveway then the kit like mine would work. If farther, then I'd consider DEI like Viper 5701 / 5702 or Autopage brands. I've had good experiences with those for longer ranges.
 
#19 ·
just looked into these systems. they seem to be pretty great! what made you go for your unit rather than these systems?

i didnt fully research the viper... is it keyless entry as well or just alarm/remote start?

i do remember how i hooked up the ignition on mine but its been a while. some wire color codings would be very helpful. def would be cool to see a DIY on this.


you said you hooked the immobilzer coil up to the keyless entry system? so you did not leave key chip in the car correct? rather the system can somehow learn the keys code and only emitting the right signal when you are around? just wondering how that works.


funny couple of days ago i was totally happy with my ML now i "need" a remote start and security system Hhaha ...long live consumerism. ;)
 
#22 ·
The DIY is over here (link is also in the DIY thread):

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w163-m-class/1677893-remote-start-push-start-keyless-entry.html

Been almost 4 years since I installed it and it still works good LOL.

...except one time I forgot the fob on a shelf in the garage close enough to the proximity of the ML that the next morning I started it thinking I had the fob in my jeans pocket (muscle memory) and drove to work. Didn't realized the fob was still at home AFTER shutting it down when I arrived at work...had to bribe the wife to bring me the fob so I could get home LOL.
 
#27 ·
Got my Key-less entry and push to start up and working thank's to CGL and 43sqd help, the acc wire in my 2000 ML cdi was the gray wire confirming the advice of test and test again to be sure.
Now the next thing is safety, having the ignition switch in run position with plug removed I have no guaranty that I am in Park when I turn motor off and leave the car (it's normally done as an automatic reaction but I or others could make a mistake) so I am contemplating an audible alarm when I turn the motor off and the ML is not in park.
Any ideas would be appreciated
 
#28 · (Edited)
I am probably going to be slammed on this, but what is the end goal going PTS on a W163 - other than just to have it? From reading this thread alone, it seems like the return is barely worth the effort. What is wrong with using the OEM key? What advantage does a PTS system have other than the race car look.

To start your truck, have to open the truck and manually to get into your seat - no change there. Then you have to extend your right hand (US owners) towards a round target to start the truck - no change there.

For non PTS OEM systems (like the W163), most of us use our thumb and the finger next to our thumb to grab and turn the key to start the truck - in moist cases, there is usually no issue finding the key hole. For the PTS system, you have a choice of 10 fingers (and a foot on brake) to push that round button - OK, you don't have to "search" for a key hole and this may be an advantage, reallllly. Or, maybe the choice of 10 fingers and a foot is better,...,I'm still struggling with the concept. The W163 already has a very clean starting system - all you need is turn the key and let go. The system takes over the starting process. Someone please educate me on what the PTS system offers over just starting the darn truck manually.

DISCLOSURE: I have a BMW with OEM PTS system and as far as I am concerned, this is a moronic option, completely unnecessary, totally unproductive, compared with the ML or the other Bimmer or Nissan or VW or...whatever else I drive. I am really struggling to see how this improves the starting process. Help!!!!!
 
#29 ·
Right on the button (sic) Darkman in every way except cost, here is my situation, only one keyfob, worn key so the locksmith can not read code, worn lock cylinder, and lots of spare time. approx cost min. $5-600. Keyless entry and PTS max $200 including a keypad to unlock and run to avoid fun CGL had with his fob left at home and satisfaction in getting it to work on my 2000 ML with 317000k on the clock.
So there is always other ways to deal with these older Mercs
 
#31 ·
Right on the button (sic) Darkman in every way except cost, here is my situation, only one keyfob, worn key so the locksmith can not read code, worn lock cylinder, and lots of spare time. approx cost min. $5-600. Keyless entry and PTS max $200 including a keypad to unlock and run to avoid fun CGL had with his fob left at home and satisfaction in getting it to work on my 2000 ML with 317000k on the clock.
So there is always other ways to deal with these older Mercs
You make a good point - didn't know there's that much of a cost difference. Don't you still have to fix the lock cylinder to install the PTS system OR, is that part of installing the PTS. Of the two keys that came with my truck, only one works completely - the other one only starts the truck but all remote functions are dead. I am working with a locksmith in Alexandria, VA to fix this - I will post what I found out today in a different thread. I wholly agree with you on other ways to deal with the ML.
 
#30 ·
Having just pts wouldn’t be of much benefit but the keyless go and passive entry is great. I have the fob in my wallet so I never forget to take my wallet when I go out. When your hands are full you don’t have to reach for your key to unlock the doors. 1 issue is when I drive my wife’s car I have walked away from it without locking it because you get used to just hoping out and walking away. I’ve had mine hooked up for 5 years and love it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk