Here are the instructions for removal of both valve covers. The new valve cover gaskets do not require any sealant. Just install as is.

If there is no leak between the upper and lower chambers, leave it alone as they are very difficult to separate; sealant is required, no gasket.

Make sure the ventilation holes are cleared.

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w163-m-class/1309153-valve-cover-torque-specs-2.html#post3672314

 

...The new valve cover gaskets do not require any sealant. ...

Can you tell me more about this because I've just about had enough of this design. What's the new part #.

 

I really hate to say this, but someone has previously removed the driver's side top valve cover rather inexpertly, and reinstalled it clumsily, causing damage in both instances.

Just below the oil fill tube beneath the driver side top piece valve cover, in the photo there is metal missing from the aluminum head. This is the point where someone used a steel screwdriver to pry up the cover, which was tightly held down with factory sealant.

The goop is covering a hole where a bolt is supposed to be. Because it is missing, the top piece valve cover is not held down sufficently, and this is the likely reason that oil is seeping out. Looks like the same offender reinstalled the top piece valve cover, and overtorqued the bolt in the aluminum head, and stripped out the bolt hole. (Not much torque required here for an aluminum head.) The same noob then covered the bolt hole to provide some level of sealant to the valves.

You probably have 2 choices:

1) Leave it alone and monitor leak rate. (Easy approach if the leak is periodically cleaned)
2) Get a Helicoil kit that is slightly oversize from the original bolt dimensions, remove the cover, drill out the bunged up hole, install the Helicoil, and don't overtorque on reassembly. (Requires a steady machinist hand)

Try choice 1) for awhile. :thumbsup:

 

I really hate to say this......

Don't say it. I understand what you're saying but believe me, this is just crappy design from MB - the screwdriver or wedge thingy to take the upper chamber in that pic most likely has nothing to do with the leak. This is a recurring problem on the V8 motors, with a yet to be developed solution. It happened on my E (same motor as the ML) and ML, both on the passenger side. Had both done at dealer and now the ML's driver's side is leaking. I had to redo the E's at its 100K plug change. It's simply very poor design.

43sqd mentioned a new upper chamber cover. I hope that will fix the problem.

 

Thanks for the guides and instructions. I have a gasket kit on order should be here early next week. I'm having a mechanic buddy install it and will share these feedback and instructions with him.

@43sqd - would you be able to share a take-apart of the left (driver side) cylinder head cover?


His assessment very similar to @atmsmshr; that someone removed the cover and either lost or stripped the bolt and when the leak, or "sweat", was noticed, an attempt to use sealant (a wrong one at that) to stop it. He's going to remove the top piece, clean it, then reseal it and having it cured overnight.

I'll ask him if he has a heilcoil kit (I'm sure he does - he has a pair of two post car lifts in his home garage - he repairs cars and engines as a side business to his job as a mechanic).

Thanks again!

 

@43sqd - would you be able to share a take-apart of the left (driver side) cylinder head cover?

mjc, I have already supplied you with the instructions in my firstpost.

 

For the ML 500 you have. They do not need sealant because they are a synthetic rubber compound.
Right Side: 113 016 03 21 $22
Left Side: 113 016 02 21 $22

 

Here is another DIY.

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210-e-class/1490927-diy-r-r-valve-cover-gasket.html

 

Original bolts holding breather chamber to valve cover ware one time use aluminum. They snap off on any attempt to reuse or retorque. Replacement screws are stainless steel. Part number 000912-005010, M5x18.

Key to successful application of any type of sealant is both surfaces must be clean of any old sealant and bone dry. Not a trace of oil.

Recommended sealant for this application in Loctite 5900. MB part number 003 989 98 20 10.

.

 

Original bolts holding breather chamber to valve cover ware one time use aluminum. They snap off on any attempt to reuse or retorque. Replacement screws are stainless steel. Part number 000912-005010, M5x18....

I'm glad you caught me b4 I started retorquing hardware. My bolts are the original aluminum ones. I may just leave well alone as is because my seepage is really small. The reason I though to just apply more preload is because I notice the wetness on every long trip I take (and that's basically what my ML does 99% of the time) and it bothers me. Thanks for the tip. I'll leave well enough alone until spark plug change.

 

Any tips on how to separate the upper chamber from the lower chamber? It's a lot harder than I was expecting.

 

I to noticed a leak from the valve covers and from somwhere under the engine. this weekend i did a oil change with m1.....0w-40 after useing m1...5w-30 for the longest time.. I hade no leaks useing the 5w-30. I think that the 0w-40 is to thin to use on a 2000 ml430 with 182000km. My truck is still under a garantie from the lot i bought it at, so i will let them deal with it for now.