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DIY R&R Valve Cover Gasket

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159K views 124 replies 55 participants last post by  2002 ML500 @ East Texas  
#1 · (Edited)
OK Here is the subject a, 99 E430 sport, M113 V8
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I have had a small leak on the left side for years, it would only leak one drop during storage of 3 months.
When I would start the car everything was OK but as it warmed up the oil would burn off on the heat shield. The last time I started it it got much worse, the time has come to change the gasket. In this pic you can see the oil fill tube has evidence of seepage, we will fix that too.
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Lifting off the engine cover, right side first.
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Then continue to lift the front of the engine cover on the left side. The clips at the rear will turn loose as you lift the cover.
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The cover is off and you can see more evidence of seepage around the oil fill tube extension.
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This is the left side valve cover that will be removed.
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Good idea to protect your fender and paint, I use packing blankets for my comfort.
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First step mark your coil wires and coils, cut the ty wrap to free the loom. Swing the coil wires back by the firewall, out of the way.
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Remove the plastic clip between the fuel line and vacuum line. It will not be necessary to remove either the fuel line or vacuum line.
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Use a T30 to remove the coils, one at a time.
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#2 · (Edited)
Once the coil is free from the valve cover, you can use a 17mm open end wrench to pull the spark plug boots off. Be careful you can break a plug, pry the boot off gently. Member Oh Lord has a boot removal tool (for sale) that I am sure works better than a common wrench. That said, if you have changed plugs on an air cooled 911 these boots are first cousins. pita
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All the coils removed. Starting to break loose the fasteners.
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We are about to remove the valve cover, before we do I vacuum the area around the cover to remove any dirt and debris. You don't want any dirt to get in your engine.
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Disconnect the large crankcase vent hose.
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disconnect the small crankcase vent hose, it is hard to see, just under the red drop light. Ready to lift off the cover.
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Cover off, and every thing looks good. The gasket stuck to the head so the leak is between the gasket and cover.
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This is the rocker set for Cyl #8 under the exhaust rocker you can see the place (white spot) where the oil drops burn off on the heat shield.
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If you like how clean the valve train is, All I can say is, Mobil 1 0W40 this engine is on its 3rd oil change (oil change @ 10K mi) over 10 years. I also use only BP ultimate (Clear 93) and every mile is documented.
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Here is the current mileage
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The parts new gasket, Blue RTV
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#3 · (Edited)
Part number
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Here is the valve cover back after a visit to the spa, all clean and de-greased.
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First item to reseal is the oil fill extension. In the next few pics it will appear that I use a liberal amount of Blue RTV that is not the case. For some reason the blue looks larger in the pics. I always try to use a thin film of blue RTV.
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Bead on both parts.
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Install filer extension, note no RTV coming out.
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Small continuous bead of Blue RTV sealant in the gasket channel.
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Bed the gasket in the RTV and wipe any excess off.
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Again lay a small continuous bead around the gasket surface. Then smooth it to a thin film no higher than the ribs on the gasket. Ready to reinstall, make sure the old gasket is removed and the sealing surface of the head is clean and oil free.
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When installing the cover try to do it in one shot, and avoid sliding it around on the head too much. Start all your fasteners by hand first. Then tighten them in a circular pattern, starting at the center and go around in an ever widening circle. Torque the fasteners in three stages 40-60 then one hour later 72 inch pounds.
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Here I am installing a ty wrap to act as a hose clamp on the crankcase hose. They get a little stretched when you remove them.
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#4 · (Edited)
Same ty wrap as hose clamp for the small hose too.
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Reinstall the plug boots on the spark plugs and fasten the coil to the valve cover.
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Last one.
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Replace clip and re tywrap loom to #8 coil and hook up coil wires.
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Snap engine cover on and wait 24 hours for sealant to dry, then test run and check for leaks.
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K
#8 ·
The two breather hoses should be replaced when doing this job, no need to zip tie some junk parts back on when new ones can be had for around $20.

Also, for the love of god, RTV sealer is not needed anywhere on this engine that already has a gasket. If you cant repair the leak by using factory repair methods and parts then you should take it to a professional. If you just put a gasket and follow factory repair instructions it will not leak
 
#9 ·
Eek - another 'expert'. Next he'll tell us to take the car to the dealer to have the codes scanned for the oil leak. :eek:
 
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J
#12 ·
I also think that RTV isnt needed. The only time I'll ever use a sealant is to hold the gasket to the valve cover if it is held loosely. If the sealing surfaces are in good shape, there's no reason to use RTV on there. You also risk getting chunks of it in the sump and clogging up the oil pump pickup. I've seen motors burn up crank bearings because of this. Also, you should see what happens when you introduce RTV to gasoline.
 
J
#13 ·
How'd you get the driver's side cover back on w/ the hoses in the way? I removed mine tonight and had a tough time. I was banging up against the hoses, the camshaft gear, and other under-hood equipment before I finally got it out of the car. I don't see how it can be put on the car in "one shot" as I think you called it.
 
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#18 ·
I used no RTV too. No leaks. WIS instructions is without RTV.
Its important to clean contact surfaces properly.

I used the dishwasher at work.:thumbsup:
Excellent results!
 
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#21 ·
Great write up Yacht master, i used your posting to change my gasket today after i found oil on my spark plugs.

Unfortunately, when i opened it up the engine looked sooo bad (picture attached). Any suggestions how i should clean it?

I was hoping i can scrap most of it off and put the cover back on and let it run for a month then open it again to get the scrap the rest out.
 

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#22 ·
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#23 ·
I just lost my lunch looking at the picture. :eek:
 
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#25 ·
I’ve seen that before, it’s sound deadening insolation for the uncared and neglected engines! Now wonder what it will sound like when or if you clean it all out, and if you do then likely forget 15/40 move to a 50, imagine the journals what they must look like.
That really sucks, but thank you for sharing the picture, good luck.
 
#26 ·
I had to log back in to express that I believe you should not waste money on that engine! That engine needs to be hauled out and rebuilt! Even if you used solvents to dissolve the sludge you will not be able to filter it out with the engine still in the car it needs a chemical bath!! Or find a replacement unit, sorry that’s the hard truth.
Yacht Master sorry for the barge;)
 
#28 ·
Guys,

I am changing my valve cover gasket next sat. If my engine looks like that, I will just go buy another benz then.
Also does this actually clean the engine out?

Liqui Moly

Miscellaneous Fluids/Treatments; Motor Clean; Oil Change Prep
Scrubs and cleans engine from the inside. Highly effective additives clean and loosen deposits in the engine. Add to a warm engine before oil change and idle engine 10 minutes before draining old oil. Limited availability.

https://www.autohausaz.com/search/p...316393@E320 &year=1998&cid=fluid@fluid&gid=2222@Miscellaneous Fluids/Treatments
 
#29 ·
just replaced my valve cover gasket today

- my engine looks pristine clean :thumbsup:
- Also I have to break 1 of the breather hoses to get it out of the cover. It was super hard like plastic. The other breather hose, I did not replace (I should but I didn't get the correct hose).

My brother in law had to use a flat head screwdriver and tear off that hose. Lucky I bought the replacement. Here is the replacement part for that particular hose

Your Parts Search Returned 3 Part(s)

1120180182

Uro Parts
Air Intake Boot/Hoses; For Partial Load Crankcase Ventilation, Lower Portion
 
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