I'm not a professional, but it looks like a 'conductor plate' replacement is due. Common occurrence evidently.

Read these, then see if you can fix it DIY or an Indy. Let us know what happens.

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w20...rg/forums/w203-c-class/1854042-diy-722-6-trans-conductor-plate.html#post7183138
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w21...rg/forums/w210-e-class/1474216-photo-diy-722-6-conductor-plate.html#post3742078

 

I could definitely try the conductor plate replacement. I'm just wondering why DAS recommends replacing the whole controller unit,'unless that's just protocol for stealership mechanics who don't actually troubleshoot problems.

 

Chris,

The early ones were royal pain in the ass for the indy and DIY'ers as they were designed for Mercedes to do the work only...I want to say their was some big law suit, or something like that forced Mercedes to redesign it, so that it is serviceable, and individual parts can be purchased instead of one part fails, and throw the whole thing out...

I know you are under VGS1 valve body as you have the 1st edition and it is up to 3rd or 4th now...

If your valve body has these numbers. The whole thing has to be replace..

A220 270 1206 or A220 270 1406 or A220 270 1006 or A220270 1106

With VGS2-VGS3 or 4 the Valve body parts are modular, and so literally one can just replace the speed sensor element instead of replacing the whole conductor plate element. What I do not know, if you buy a used (or the whole Transmission for that matter as I know you can find them for ~$700) valve body(VGS-2 through VGS-4) will fit and get reprogrammed to your car as the ports(where the valve body bolts up to the transmission body, or did that change too) holes will be the same for later year transmissions.

After all of this, the trans fluid pan changed with a few parts to improve the transmission...

Martin

 

I agree with Kbob in replacing the plate, as well as the plug.

Note that you have 2 additional codes, indicating the controller cannot be reached. if it was the first and forth codes only, then this means the diagnostic module is able to talk to it, but it's talking gibberish back, so it's defective... but the fact that you have no communication error, means there is a problem with the connection, thus the plate and plug should be replaced, as a standard method of troubleshooting, considering their low cost...

 

Thanks guys. I believe the other 2 codes occurred because my system battery had died "electronic consumers offline" while I tried scanning it. I had all sorts of weird errors pop up. But once I charged the battery I was able to clear them out. I will go ahead with the plate and plug as suggested. You wouldn't happen to have part numbers or at least the actual part name would you?

 

PM me your VIN, and I ll pull them up for you.

 

Thanks bayhas. VIN # sent via PM.

 

Got it,

Kbob and I were thinking this is a 722.6 tranny, thus we suggested the plate before anything else, as the plate is 80 bucks.

Now that I see the tranny is 722.9 7speed, the plate is one unit, along with 4 modules, 2 of yours may be blown.

Here is a breakdown of all of your components,

The part that include all components you need (that SDS is complaining about), in addition to the contact plate itself is A0002702600

The local part counter may be able to get it as re manufactured item, adding 800 at the end of the part number, and saving you some money

This 722.9 plate is significantly more expensive than 722.6, but the good news its an all inclusive unit, and has all of your problematic components, so you're very likely to fix it in one shot.

 

This is great. Thanks guys. Now i am relatively new to My DAS/Xentry and WIS system so how would i go about finding the replacement instructions for the part? Does it require the transmission to be taken out or can it be replaced with everything in tact? i assume i will also need to do some type of programming with DAS/XENTRY after its replaced right? i really appreciate your help on this. My poor baby has been sitting in my driveway since august, wasting away. Im eager to get her back on the road.

 

I also noticed that when the car is in "Park", i get a message on the dashboard saying to move gear selector to "P". Not sure what this is about but figured to mention it. If i push up a little on the shifter, the error message goes away.

 

I think I have a similar problem although my transmission seems to be working fine for now. It sometimes does get stuck in gear but turning the car on and off fixes the problem. I do believe my car has the 722.6 transmission, is the conductor plate the likely culprit here as well?

Chris, my codes look slightly different. It shows the fault as "Current and Stored" rather than "stored" like yours. You'd think that would mean my problem should be worse if it is "current".

I just cleared the codes, will continue to monitor and watch for problems.

 

PM me your VIN, so we dont speculate

but yes, generally first step is to replace the plate...

 

Update. I picked up a new (refurb) Electrohydraulic Control unit part#A220-270-27-06-88 at the dealer for $800 (friends discount, normally $975). Its a theft relevant part (TRP) so you need to fill out a form and show your license and registration when ordering the part. Needs to be prepaid and there is a $142 refundable core charge. I found an independent transmission guy who works on many of these Mercedes valve bodies and changes it out for $450 and another shop to program it for $350. All in $1600 but the car is like new again. Apparently this is a common problem on the 722.9 transmission. Make sure you get your transmission serviced regularly to avoid fluid build up and metal shavings on the magnets. The stealership would probably want to replace the whole transmission so beware. Thanks again for your posts and help.

 

SWEET!

I love happy endings...

 

Caution when removing the valve body and conductor plate assembly on the 722.9. The plastic plate connector that protrudes from the transmission case will easily break off if the rubber o-rings stick to the transmission case. Hit it with some penetrating solution of 50/50 tranny fluid and acetone (or your favorite penetrating lube) and press down from the top. Use a plastic trim removal tool or similar lever. DO NOT try to pull it loose. From there, easy peasy. The are plenty of YouTube videos that show what to do next. Circuit Board Medics has some videos on their site and YouTube.