Yes, Shell ATF 134 is the oil you want. It meets MB spec 236.14 and is generally available for under $6/quart. It's what I used in my 722.9 when I did the F&F change.

 

I think it would be better stay with the 236.10 tranny fluid for the 722.6. Someone said 236.14 is not good for 722.6. Also, a "blue color" fluid specially designed for 722.9 cannot use with 722.6 officially.

I used the German Ravenol or Febi 236.10. They are selling roughly $7.5/L locally.

RAVENOL Automatik-Getriebeöl MB 6-Serie - Ravenol

Mercedes FEBI Automatic Transmission Fluid - (MBZ Approval:236.10) 001989210310 - RM European Auto Parts

 

That is incorrect - 236.14 spec fluid is just fine for the 722.6 and the 236.10 spec has been discontinued. While any remaining supplies of 236.10 fluid would be fine to use for a 722.6, there is no reason to seek it out specifically.

 

Hey Rodney I just bought the Shell ATF 134 5 quarts for the 722.6. I was wondering if I change the conductor plate right now without any problems, would I still need to have the transmission reset with star? Or is that only if the tranny was limping before the install? I'm hoping I don't have to reset it, it would save me time and money.
Edit: Nevermind I found out that as long as you install everything right you shouldn't need to reset anything, gotta love preventative maintenance.


Also I will be doing the 722.9 oil and filter

I was wondering how do I check if I have the updated pan? The transmission is new as my dad blew his original from not changing the fluid and this new one has 25k-30k miles on it. If I went to the dealer who installed it, would they be able to just check their files and tell me if it's the new pan or not? I would certainly hate to get stuck in the middle of doing it if I have the old pan, but Mercedes BETTER have installed the new pan cause that's a new transmission.

I can't exactly crawl under there to look right now, because I don't have any jacks that could support the weight of the R350. I'm going to use a shop lift when I do the service.
I'll just to go to the dealer and check first, pretty sure I can find out one way or another.

 

On the 722.6, you should not need any coding when changing the conductor plate, but on a 722.9, it has to be reprogrammed and I believe only a dealer can do that as it requires a "live" connection to MBZ corporate through SDS.

As for the revised pan, you will need to lift it enough to look from underneath the see if the rear edge of the pan is sloped or not. If it has a slope, then you have the new pan.

 

:bowdown: Thank you for sharing your wisdom. Luckily I was just planning on doing the filter and fluid for 722.9 and the transfer case.

I just got the parts for 722.6 from ebay. It's going in soon, probably by next weekend :thumbsup: wish me luck...

 

Is the conductor plate replacement a good remedy for most shifting and lockup issues? I still have an issue with TC lockup from a stop when cold, and TC unlock when slowing to a stop when warm. From replies on another thread I had assumed it was either a failing solenoid or sticking valve.

I guess either way, when you have the valve body out are you planning to test the solenoids and valve operation somehow?

 

I wonder if the SDS has performance test routine to evaluate the valve body without taking it out.

 

Well I did the pan drop and filter fluid and plug housing today. Turns out someone serviced the transmission before me(phew! @90k now, the filler plug seal was broken and leaky traces below the torque converter drain) it seems like they drained the torque converter too, I also saw parts on RMEUROPEAN for torque converter plug bolt for the 2001 C320. Can someone verify?
I'm almost certain though that I can drain it, I just assumed I couldn't this time, I also didn't have fluid, socket for crankshaft, or replacement parts on hand.

Next time I will do the conductor plate and torque converter, maybe 25k later.

I took some pictures of my lil adventure.

The OEM filter is a spongy foam type filter

Coffee filters seem to make good "lint free paper towels" I googled it, because I thought the blue towels would still have lint.

Shell ATF 134 smells like fish, clams, and oysters, true to their brand name.

car shifts a little smoother after, I also got a little heavy footed after a good break in and tried the car halfway to redline, it hauls a$$

 

Did you do a full flush through the cooling lines? Theoretically you shouldn't need to bother with the TC plug if you do the cooling line flush.

 

No I just did the pan drop this time. But I found the transmission to be in good condition the fluid was still decent and there were no particles in the bottom of the pan, my mom drives like a granny and the car has low miles and I saw that it was properly serviced once already. The 722.6 seems to live up to it's reputation for being robust, and the car is small and rwd drivetrain so it's not much stress to the tranny.

I'd rather just do the TC drain than mess with those cooling lines, I saw them but the TC is right there easy.


Anyways I'm moving on to the R350, I'm doing the TC and pan, transfer case, and differentials.

 

Went to my new MB stealership parts counter to ask for ATF : They sold me Shell ATF 134 (Ripoff at $10.00/qt) and Parts guy told me : It personal ( or customer ) choice between called " Genuine MB AFT" or most of the time they are using Shell AFT 134 for daily service at their stealership service dept when does tranny services.. It's your call I guess ...I've done two 722.6 trannies yesterday just for my peace of mind...

 

I believe Shell ATF 134 is updated from their older fluid which was lower quality I think for the 722.6. It is on their list and you can use it for the older non plus 7 G tronic 722.9 transmissions too. I don't think theres anything really wrong with it, if you feel it is inferior then just flush it a little sooner?

I got mine at $52 shipped for 5 quarts so you didn't really get ripped off.

However I think I'm going to buy Fuchs 4134 for the R350, because I'm ordering other stuff from RMEURO anyways. But I still have a quart of shell 134 and I'll use it on the transfer case.

BTW do you drain the TC for your 722.6 transmissions?

 

They're both on the spec sheet, so either one should do just fine -- in which case I'd go with the cheaper alternative

 

Some 722.6 TCs will have drains, but it was deleted sometime in calendar year 2000. You will have to remove the access cover on the bottom of the bell housing, then rotate the engine by hand (wrench on the crankshaft balancer pulley bolt) and observe the TC to see if it does have one.

 

I just found out some unsettling information

Shell ATF 134 is semi synthetic, not full synthetic.
And ALL 236.14 fluids only have a 24month/24,000 mile warranty


Pelican Parts - Product Information: 001-989-68-03-13-M22
Pelican Parts - Product Information: 001-989-68-03-13-M852
Pelican Parts - Product Information: 001-989-68-03-13-M36

So it's got me a little paranoid due to the fact most parts fail after the warranty ends. It makes me think I should do partial changes every year, and a full change with TC every 2 years/24,000 miles.

But yea, the independent tester said 40k miles is the limit of the fluid, but maybe it's already starting to degrade after 24k?

I dunno, not trying to scare anyone, just sharing what I saw.

Also I went to the dealer yesterday and it was a nightmare. I found out they put in "remanufactured" transmissions, not NEW transmissions like they first said, that's why the rebuilt trans only has 1 year warranty.
They lowered their trans service price to $288 plus tax for V-6, but it specifically states pan drop only and I even asked the service advisor about it, she said most dealers do the same and Mercedes thinks it's perfectly fine, (not their WIS though?). The rebuilt 722.9 is getting close to 2 years old now, and it's almost 24k miles.

The service history also shows they charged 18 liters of ATF totaling $484!!!!!

I MUST GET THIS 100% Synthetic ATF 134 mb approved!!
http://www.motul.com/system/product_descriptions/technical_data_sheets/56702/original/ATF_236.14_(GB).pdf?1354100506

Well that seems impossible to get a hold of.
I think I will just buy fuchs, they are supposed to be factory fill. and from Germany too.
http://www.generaloils.net/PI_TITANATF-4134_e.pdf

liquimoly interestingly makes a separate fluid for the 236.1 replacement. It's a little thicker.
and they have a 236.14 approved for 236.12 and 236.14.
Liqui-Moly NZ - Gear Oils

top tec ATF 1100 236.1
http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/mediendb.nsf/gfx2/3650%20Top%20Tec%20ATF%201100_EN.pdf/$file/3650%20Top%20Tec%20ATF%201100_EN.pdf
I also looked up the popular alternative for USA, Valvoline Maxlife ATF red bottle full synthetic. They actually clearly state it can be used on all 5 speed 236.1 and crossfire all NAG-1, but they have a disclaimer on their spec sheet.
Not tested by OEM manufacturer but won't void warranty? The specs are quite a bit off from this liquid moly for 236.1 but I don't know from the OE spec but the viscosity is very very low. I'm interested in using this to flush the trans before adding some better fluid in the end. But I'm not sure about driving with it, it's actually a semi synthetic as well, I dunno how they can lie about fully synthetic.
http://www.carquestprofessionals.com/catalogs/chemicals/V-6217%20ATF%20Application%20NON-Laminated%20Guide%206.10.13.pdf
http://www.valvoline.com/pdf/maxlife_atf.pdf


top tec 1600 236.12 and 236.14, This slightly exceeds the density of fuchs, it matches motul. I can get a hold of this and may consider it. There are heavy loads placed on the transmission and transfer case I'm sure.
http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/mediendb.nsf/gfx2/3659%20Top%20Tec%20ATF%201600_EN.pdf/$file/3659%20Top%20Tec%20ATF%201600_EN.pdf

Shell ATF 134 Has the lowest rated viscosity index and hot kinematic viscosity, has the least density, pour point matches fuchs, motul seems superior in hot shear strength and cold pour point all around better and the most dense fluid. I think fuchs is superior product to shell, slightly in film strength and possibly additives, and other products like motul may be even better. I guess it's cheap for a reason.
http://www.epc.shell.com/Docs/GPCDOC_X_cbe_24855_key_140003580805_201006251627.pdf

Valvoline SynPower ATF 134 is fully synthetic as well. But I can't get this either, it says Valvoline Europe, guess Europeans only get fully synthetic? Although it's full synthetic it only matches up to fuchs, I would personally put fuchs above it, and shell below Valvoline. But shell might be good for colder climates where lower viscosity might be a good thing.
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&frm=1&source=web&cd=2&cad=rja&ved=0CDEQFjAB&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.valvolineeurope.com%2FuploadedFiles%2F5260.pdf&ei=q03XUpzxMsjdoATVmYDQBw&usg=AFQjCNF0qFAgWFHelem3MTMV2_3RDXZ5lg&sig2=L03-gkDXksJm3G5DnZL1IA