Big bills are coming your way sorry to say.

 

looks like you need a new pump to start with. after you replace a pump everything starts going out due to the new strong pressure from the new pump

 

You do need a new pump, it may need bleeding after you have fitted it and I can give you that info... the pressure will be the same as before as all controlled from valves elsewhere.

 

Television, thanks for offering. I would in fact like to see any information you may have about bleeding the ABC pump after it has been installed. Thank you in advance for your time. BTW - your PM box is full.

 

Agree with others. New ABC pump is needed. I'm curious as to others opinions on rebuilt vs. new. Pump change is within range of a competent DIY. Given this, may be worth a try with a cheaper rebuilt pump?

 

This was discussed here: http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r230-sl-class/1833482-another-abc-gremlin.html

I would generally not go with a rebuilt pump for the ABC..........what do they actually mean by rebuilt??

If it is just a seal change then no thanks.........there are a lot of other areas that wear in that pump......

Can get a brand new pump for around $1100 rebuilt are about $700 id rather have the peace of mind for $400.....

 

I was talking to an auto body guy who has always driven MB and was the main auto body guy for a local MB dealership. He's told be Bosch makes the pump and its a lot less expensive for it than the dealer charges...

 

The ABC pump was originally made by Luk, the company is now called Ixetic but still the same company.

The newer pumps have both company names on them - see pic of a spare pump i have....

 

I have an 04 with a new pump going in next week. 003 466 50 01 is the part number. After a months long intensive search I was able to find one for $1060.00. PM me if you wish I can tell you which US parts supplier I got it from.

I'm just hoping after my new pump goes in, I don't blow a hose as has happened to so many others.

-Stephen

 

Stephen, PM sent. Thanks.

 

Television, thanks for sharing those. Having read through the 230_abc_bleed PDF you attached above, I've reach the following steps (in lamans terms):

-evacuate hydraulic fluid from ABC system expansion reservoir
-remove tandem pump
-install new tandem pump
-charge (refill) system with ~4 liters of hydraulic fluid (steps 1-5)
-pressurize tandem pump (step 6.1, see additional attachment below)
-bleed ABC system (steps 7-13)

Does this sound about right gents? Looking at the 230_abc_bleed PDF, I'm a bit confused as to why Mercedes says to charge the system and start the engine in step 3 prior to pressurizing the ABC system manually in step 6.1. Would this not result in air going through the system since you haven't pressurized and bled it yet? Thoughts...?

 

Well gents, thanks to stclarke's help I went ahead and purchased a brand new Luk pump (sku:5410228100) for $1,060, which is scheduled to arrive Thursday.

I also did some due diligence on the ABC system’s high pressure hoses and have decided to replace those as well. I still need to inspect the hoses in more detail, but I do vaguely remember some hoses showing signs of weeping and leakage. It seems as though I can remove the ones that need repair and have them rebuilt at a hydraulic repair shop for relatively cheap.

Since my research so far suggests that the engine needs to be un-mounted and raised in order for one of the high pressure hoses to be replaced, I'll be replacing that specific engine mount at the same time (and the other mount after the ABC repair since both mounts have collapsed).

 

Does anyone happen to have the WIS sheet for removal of the tandem pump? Although I've done enough research to know how to remove it already, I would like to see how Mercedes specifically instructs its technichans to do so.

I thought I'd throw in picture too since I've never posted her on the site. Boy I miss her ;(

 

Does anyone happen to have the WIS sheet for removal of the tandem pump? Although I've done enough research to know how to remove it already, I would like to see how Mercedes specifically instructs its technichans to do so. ;(

Here you go. Looks like book time is 4.3 Hours for pump only.

 

Where did you purchase the pump from?

 

PM Sent

-Stephen

 

I just checked and didn't see the PM. Would you mind resending? Thanks.

 

re-sent...sorry about that

 

Mercy-me: Thanks a lot for sharing that!

The new Luk pump came in yesterday evening (see pictures). Given my current lack of access to a proper garage space I decided to suck it up and source the labor part of the job to a local independent mechanic. For $700 I'm having the pump replaced, the system flushed, filter replaced and a rodeo done.

Here is the breakdown of the costs thus far:
$1,060 - Brand New Luk Tandem Pump w/overnight shipping
$239 - 10 liters of Pentasoin fluid @ $23.99/Liter
$60 - OEM 3 micron ABC fluid filter
$700 - Labor to replace pump, flush/replace system fluid/filter and rodeo
$2,059 - Running Total (before tax)

The mechanic has updated me that both the left rear and left front struts are leaking. I'm currently shopping for struts to replace them with (DIY this time!) It seems like a very easy fix. I just need to confirm how to properly bleed the struts once replaced. It will probably take about a week before the struts are changed out. Do you guys think the ABC system will manage until then…? :dunno:

 

I'll be watching for sure !! My pump goes in next week (takes a bit longer to ship to Canada)

My Indy here in Toronto (that quite a number of Benz folks use) quoted $42 for the filter, $160 for 16L of fluid, $450 labour (5 hours) and $20.00 in misc shop supplies for having the pump replaced, the system flushed, filter replaced and a rodeo done. Total $ 672 but with our dreaded GST tax the total comes to $759

I hope they don't find anything else

 

I certainly would do it all at once as to not risk a second chance for allowing debris to get into the system. Debris is one of the things that kills these systems in the first place.

 

Agreed if at all possible change the struts when you change the pump. Check Arnott Industries for rebuilt struts with a lifetime warranty:

https://www.arnottindustries.com/part_MERCEDES-BENZ_yid18_pid145.html

 

BigBlockin

How's the pump working out ? Did you have any issues with it ?

-Stephen

 

Stclarke: Sorry I fell of the grid and didn't get back to you sooner. Its been a few weeks since the repair/flush and things seem to be running smoothly, no ABC error messages to date! I've attached pictures of the old pump and filter. That filter is suppose to be white, well neon green given the color of the fluid! I still feel like the car should raise up more, but maybe it doesn't because of the strut leaks the mechanic had noted...but I cant say for certain yet.

 

Picked up my car today after having the ABC pump replaced. The pump supplied sufficient pressure, but was leaking fluid. I was going to get a rebuilt pump after doing some research and it appears the pumps can be rebuilt back to operating condition. However, I lucked out and found a new pump on Ebay that was being sold by a private person for the same price as a rebuilt. I immediately noticed that the steering was easier and more responsive. so there must have been some pressure loss on the power steering side. Happy to say that "I'm back on the road again" .

 

My 2006 SL500 start giving me the dreaded ABC msg "Visit Workshop" .. so I checked the fluid level and it seems a bit low. I bought a liter of Pentasosin from local MB but my probl now is that I don't know how much to put in... the dipstick seems to have 2 'notches' . I saw on the dip stick the German word MOTOR UN then the 'notch' at the lower end.. the word continue w/ BELADEN then another 'notch' at the upper end. My current fluid level is about 1/2 in below the first notch ..so I decided to fill up to that notch. But the warning light still there. So do I really have a problem somewhere w/this ABC system or I would need to fill up to the 2nd upper notch on the dip stick ? Do appreciate some guidance.

 

The dipstick has 2 readings Engine On ("Auf") - the lower indentation and Engine Off ("Aus") - the higher indentation.

for Engine off - car has to be left for 5 minutes on level ground at low suspension setting and should be between the top indentation on dipstick.

for Engine on - level should be constant at the lower indentation.

Are you getting white or red warning lights?

 

Thanks theintelligent1... Right now the msg is in white warning light.. (didn't know if there is Red color as well). But your explanation seems quite logical as when the engine is running, the fluid would be lower due to circulation. So right now I have the fluid level at the lower indentation with engine OFF and the warning light still ON.. let me fill it up closer to the upper notch and give it a try running the engine and see if the warning still there. Will post follow up.

 

Need part number for ABC Pump for 2003 SL500

I need to replace the ABC pump and so need the part number for a 2003 SL500.

Can you please advise?

Thanks,

Paul

 

I need to replace the ABC pump and so need the part number for a 2003 SL500.

Can you please advise?

Thanks,

Paul

0034665001 is the mercedes part number - you can get them for around $1,100 new - i would not go with a rebuilt pump for a saving of a few hundred bucks.

The Luk/Ixetic sku on my spare pump is 541019010 the one referred to in the merged thread for $1060 is Luk/Ixetic sku: 5410228100

I am merging this thread with another you will see the merged thread for more discussion.

 

Top Hydraulics

As far as I know he also does ABC pump rebuilds.

 

So it's been couple weeks and ABC warning light is no longer come on.. I think it was a low fluid level warning... I am quite happy so far that it only took a liter of the Pentosin to make that warning disappear. Anyway, looks like when engine stop and cold and if your ABC fluid level is below the 2nd lower indentation mark on the dip stick, you will need about 1 liter to fill it back up ...

Tonight while driving I briefly see a warning light came on but not sure what that means. The warning light w/ what looks like a Exclamation mark ! Does anyone know what that light is? This light lasted for about 10 mins and I stopped at the gas station.. then after fill up and restarted, it disappeared. I will look into the manual tomorrow.

 

That's great news but I would be concerned about why the fluid is low in the first place. Hydraulic fluid does not evaporate.