Hello,

I installed new shocks and struts yesterday. That went very well. The problem that I am seeing has to do with going aound turns with a slight lean, all of a sudden, the roll bar pops up. Once the roll bar has popped up, when I go around a similar turn, the central locking system disengages all locks except for the drivers side. If I had the roll bar back down, it would pop again

Does anyone know what could be causing this? It was not happening before the shock/strut install. But is it possible that they are settling or....? Not real sure.

Thanks in advance

 

re: 1990 500SL Installed shocks & struts..Roll bar pops up now????

New components naturally can affect how the suspension sits. Sasor, you probably need to adjust the position of the rear axle limit switch assemblies shown in the attached photo.

Each switch assembly has a mode selection switch on it with a position for normal operation ("funktion") and another for testing ("arretiert"). To adjust a switch, first jack-up the rear of the car so that the associated control arm is fully extended and tire is off the ground. Turn the mode selector to arretiert. Now loosen the switch assembly mounting bolt and position it so the tip of the switch just barely comes into contact with the covering on the control arm. Tighten the mounting bolt, return the mode selector to funktion, and lower the car.

 

re: 1990 500SL Installed shocks & struts..Roll bar pops up now????

bobterry99 is correct, but I think this should be done at the MB dealer, because this is a safety issue. If you get it wrong, the rollbar is´t poping up and you are going to get a headache (in best case).

 

bobterry99 is correct, but I think this should be done at the MB dealer, because this is a safety issue. If you get it wrong, the rollbar is´t poping up and you are going to get a headache (in best case).

LoL Just reading this thread trouble shooting a customers car. If you're driving so recklessly to roll one of these cars over, maybe you should reserve some time at the local track with a properly roll cage and safety gear.

I realize that MB designed the roll bar to protect you from such a (rare) situation. But seriously, how many other convertibles are sold without one.
Most people (for track purposes) have one installed anyways.

I would just have it locked in the up position and be done with it. :surrender:
Yea I know, it obstructs some of the center review mirror's visibility, but now days they make universal mount rear view cameras.

 

re: 1990 500SL Installed shocks & struts..Roll bar pops up now????

I don't know if I agree with the tone of the above post, but I strongly agree that Sasor should perform the adjustment himself. The axle switch adjustment really is simple and impossible to get wrong, I believe. My opinion is moot, however, because there is a test to verify the adjustment.

To check an axle switch, put its mode selector in the arretiert position. Drive the car to a speed of at least 6 MPH and apply the brakes fairly hard for a short stop. The roll bar should deploy. Lower the roll bar, return the mode switch to the funktion position, and repeat the preceding test for the other axle switch.

 

I just adjusted a switch on my car, just follow the instructions from Bob Terry, you can't go wrong

 

Hi guys,

The process is very simple, all what you have to do is follow the below steps for testing and replacing/adjusting the sensor:

- Testing the roll bar sensor:


Set rotating part (1) on one of the two rear axle switches to "arrested".

Then drive the vehicle to test. The roll-over bar should extend (crash actuation) when the vehicle is braked sharply from a speed of approx. 5-10 km/h . After testing set the rotating part (1) back to "Function".

NOTE: A clicking noise is audible as the roll-over bar extends.


- Replacing the roll bar sensor:

Removal

Roll-over bar
put up with convenience switch
Ignition
switch off
Negative pole on battery
disconnect and cover
Connector for rear axle switch on left (S3/2x) and right (S83/3x)
release by pressing (arrow)
Connectors
disconnect
Nuts (2)
loosen
Rear axle switches (S83/2,S83/3)
remove
Nuts (2)
retighten (4 + 0.5 Nm )

Installation

NOTE: The rear wheels must hang freely (rear axle suspension extended completely)

Rotating part (1) on both rear axle switches
turn to arrested position.
Nuts (2)
unscrew
Rear axle switches on left and right
position on bolts. Tighten nuts (2) hand-tight.
Rear axle switches
grip with hand on lever and position tip (3) against covering (4).
Nuts (2)
tighten (4 + 0.5 Nm ).
Function of roll-over bar
check.
Roll-over bar should actuate. (see the testing above)
Rotating part (1)
turn back to function position.

Hope the above information will help you to fix your problem.

Regards,:thumbsup:

 

This post has been added to http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r129-sl-class/1324795-r129-soft-top-controller-ultimate-thread.html

 

Roll bar stuck and soft top won't open

We contacted dealer - service advisor who knew the exact problem. He told us it took a special tool to fix and would take an hour, only $150.00. Good deal huh? Well, after reading your 10 sec rule about holding the role bar switch in the up position, the mechanism clicked and it worked again. I know what the dealer's special tool looks like now, but I can't post a picture of it. Thank you

 

Roll Bar activation depends on two sensors near rear wheels underneath the car. In some cars they set way to sensetive and could be easily adjusted. It is simple DIY job of about 5 minutes. Details were published here some time ago.
I remember my Roll Bar was popping out way too often to my liking, so after small adjustment, I can have some fun without being scaring passenger. Of course, when I am having too much fun, it poops up as expected.

 

I try to test by reinstall the limit switch and test by turn the switch to "arrested" and brake sharply just follow the direction but the roll-over bar didn't extend

I even took the limit swicth out and use ohm meter check and it work fine

Long time ago (about 8 months) my roll bar is extend too often and my machanic fixed already, after that it never extend automatic in any cases

However when I use the roll bar switch at the main console is up and down correctly

What should I do next?

 

where do I buy the s83/1 switch and how would i replace it take cylinder out or can I replace with cylinder in place?

 

After replacing right shock, roll bar now deploys at slightest cornering lean. Adjusted according to instructions, but no help. Can anyone tell me why the sensor on the right raises the sensor arm when in test mode and the one n the left side lowers the sensor arm. This leaves gap between the sensor arm and control arm when right side is reset to function. How do you eliminate the gap on the right side so the sensors work properly? Prior shock replacement by Mercedes. Also, should the ignition be off or on when setting the sensors?

 

So if the sensors are installed, but hyper-sensitive, is adjusting them just a matter of increasing the distance between the arm of the sensor and the corresponding control arm cover?

(I ask because I believe I did everything correctly, but they are still hyper-sensitive and keep triggering the roll bar.)

Thank you in advance for your insights on this.

 

The car was lowered by the previous owner and I believe he never adjusted the switches. Tried to adjust them today but it did not fix the roll bar popping up on turns. Tried with both wheels off the ground and one at a time as well. Any tips?

 

If the roll bar is too sensitive, then an axle limit switch or the associated wiring is faulty, or the roll bar control module is faulty.

The roll bar limit switches are electrically normally closed with their arms in the "funktion" position. To test a switch you unplug it and measure the resistance across the two terminals. The reading should be approximately zero ohms.

An alternative to a resistance measurement is this quick and easy test. Next to the soft top controller in the floor of the chassis are a pair of 2-socket electrical connectors. The one with pink wires is to the axle switches. If you remove this connector and jumper its sockets with a paper clip the axle switches are effectively bypassed. Consequently, if you now go around a curve at speeds and the roll bar does not deploy as before, then you know you have a problem with a switch or wiring.

 

I was able to properly adjust the sensors whilst the car was on a lift for a dif oil cange. I wasn't able to achieve the same with only the rear wheels off the ground using a jack.

 

I'[m going through this saga right now. I adjusted the roll bar sensors to as far away from the chassis as possible, they're in function mode and it still wants to ratch the roll bar up the second I want to turn the car ever so slightly. How on earth do you get this to stop? Cant I just delete these sensors??

The driver side sensor has a click to it when wiggled up and down. The passenger side does not have click to it. Does that mean that the passenger sensor is bad and causing this? I can also hear a clicking noise coming from the roll bar when turning when the roll bar is already up.

 

WHAT YEAR?

Grab a multimeter and see which sensor is reading open, and if it changes to closed when moving the sensor arm. The two sensors are wired in series to create a loop - ground leaves the control module, enters the first sensor, then over to the other sensor, then back to the module. I had corrosion on my connection at the round multi-plug bulkhead under the rear right seat compartment.

You can bypass the sensors by putting a jumper on the plug in the round bulkhead, but that's not advised unless you keep the roll bar up.

 

Thanks. The codes pointed to the passenger side sensor which was broken. Replaced it today and now all is well.

 

Hi chewblekka, were are the connectors to put the jumper? I have the problem of this saga and don't solucionate

 

You disconnect plug “C” at the bulkhead connector below the rear right storage compartment. It should be 2 pink wires. Jump the two female pins together. However, this will render your rollbar useless, so use temporarily.

As I posted earlier, grab a multi meter and check at each sensor to see which one is open. Your multimeter should show a complete circuit when tested at the bulkhead.