Does anybody know or have a diagram of how the softtop works?

I hope the attached helps you. This comes from the Model 129 STAR Classic Service Manual DVD that you can purchase for $88.00 from Star Service CDs and DVDs . If you Search the DVD for "ra77001290010x.pdf' you will find the attached picture and much more.

 

The operation of the soft top control system is surprisingly simple. The controller executes a step-by-step sequence of motions as illustrated by the document Lynn posted. The completion of each step is confirmed to the controller by inputs from switches that detect the position of the system's mechanical components.

Scorpiox, your problem probably has to do with one or both side windows. They are not part of the top mechanism, but the windows still figure in the sequence. The closing of the top (Step #16 in Lynn's diagram) is interrupted if either side window is not completely lowered. This is where it seems your top is stopping, and if your windows are in fact lowered, then the specific problem is likely a limit switch located in the bottom of each door that closes when the window is fully lowered. This is most easily confirmed by reading diagnostics from the top controller. If you are interested in this simple and easy procedure, you can search the forum or send me an email.

 

I tell you what, my week-old 2001 SL500 is running beautifully (a very high grin-factor) but if/when anything ever goes wrong I sure feel better knowing that this forum is here. I've participated in any number of forums over the years but the knowledge and experience available is truly a stop above ... many thanks! :thumbsup:

Stuart

 

my softtop stops half way, passenger window doesnt lower, but drivers works fine, also cant lower passenger window with switch either

 

You must be able to lower both windows in order to give the soft top controller the signal from both limit switches that the windows are down.

Once you find out why the passenger window won't go down either due to the window switch or motor I believe you find the answer to soft top problem.

 

Check the usual suspects : fuses and switches, then the code from the controller.
Start with the easiest and cheapest : the fuse first.

 

Thanks RKH. I left my brain when I left my computer for awhile. Believe it or not I had planned on mentioning the fuses as well. But forgot!

Yes, check your trunk fuses. Especially #2.

 

#4 also has to do with power windows.

 

some times the motor gives up, and needs replaced, particularly on the passenger side for some odd reason (I ve seen 3 so far, including my own)

but yes, the window not lowering will cause the problem.

 

thanks so much

im a member of several forums, mainly for my motorcycle, which is a zx10r ninja, but this is by far the best forum ever, amazing people, and i know why, because we are all gentlemen, and the ladies are proper ladies LOL

so grateful for all your guidence

 

Hope this isn't a redundant question, but...

Here's my situation:

1) I fell victim to the same leaking front latch cylinders as so many others. I removed them (thanks for the pics on the forum!), sent them off to Dennis. (Minor update: he now charges $50 apiece, plus shipping, to rebuild. Still a deal, my opinion).

2) I did not raise the soft top during this time. Just garaged it and drove with it down.

After re-installation of cylinders, when I closed the top:

- top fully extends properly
- rebuilt front latch cylinders work fine - can hear them operate
- rear part seems to work fine, but...
- when the latches pull the rear-window portion taut, they then "back off" a bit;
- Windows then raise about two inches, then go back down.
- red light on switch flashes.

Four notes:

1) When this occurs, I can use the window switches and close both windows just fine.
2) the top lowers properly. No problems there.
3) Using its switch, the rollbar raises and lowers properly. No problems there.
4) Other than that beeping when the car starts, it seems that I can drive the car fine with the top up, I simply have to use the window switch to operate the windows.

Still, I'd just as soon have it the way it was before. If there's a code reset issue, frankly I'd rather pay the $40 then go DIY on this-- judging from the threads, that sounds like opening a can of worms - or is it simpler than it sounds? Do you think simply manually lowering the top would do it? Or raising the top?

Thanks -

Peter

 

Still, I'd just as soon have it the way it was before. If there's a code reset issue, frankly I'd rather pay the $40 then go DIY on this-- judging from the threads, that sounds like opening a can of worms - or is it simpler than it sounds? Do you think simply manually lowering the top would do it? Or raising the top?

Did you add back any lost hydraulic fluid to your pumps minimum level? If so, it's my guess that you have a DTC that needs to be read and erased by an advanced diagnostic code reader like the MB SDS-STAR Diagnostic System. Call a couple of Indy's and ask them if the have a computer set up to read an reset your RST and how much they would charge you to clear any codes. Then raise and lower the RST at least three times before you leave.

Note: whenever I raise and/or lower my soft top I always have the engine running so that I'm sure that the system is getting the proper voltage because it's sensitive to a low battery.

If none of the above works please read the First Group of threads from the 4th Blue Sticky at http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r12...-sl-class/1324795-r129-roadster-soft-top-electrical-controller.html#post2419223

Please let us know what the fix was!

 

Do a search. I recall a fellow member had similar problem a few weeks ago and somebody suggested a solution and solved it. I did not take down the detail as I do not have such problem.

 

Mine did the same. It was the driver's side window, it wasn't going down all the way to trip the micro switch.
What ever you do, do not keep pushing the top up button. I blew two cylinders. Run your windows up and down a few times. If that doesn't work you will have to check the switches. Good luck, it can be difficult. Take care, Larry

 

if you listen very carefully while operating the windows near the lower limit, you can hear the click if the regulator extention is extended and adjusted properly to push the switch when the glass is lowered...

both switches can be operated from the outside for troubleshooting purposes... you need to take the door molding off, and you can access the switch through the middle hole... for temp troubleshooting purposes, do the following through the whole: you can override them and trip them manually, and you can also make sure that the glass is tripping them when lowered...

once the problem is confirmed, you know what door panel to take off to repair the issue...

 

I thought I'd post on here and see what everyone's thoughts are. Today the top only partially closed. It will not latch on the front and the rear window section then wont come down.

I also cannot get the manual locking system to lock the top to the windscreen latches. It seems frozen. However when I put the hard top on the front latches work just fine.

The below is as far as it goes. The windows go up and down fine and it opens perfectly. I've checked for leaks and found just a very small one which I've fixed that was coming from the pump.

 

What's the model year? I read in a previous post of yours it's a 1996 car, is this correct?

 

There is a 'reed' type switch at the top of the windshield to 'detect' the arrival of the soft top.
Check that switch.

 

I agree with RKH, it's likely the soft top raised switch S84/4 but where it's located and the type of switch it is depends on the model year. Early model years (I think up to 1993) had the switch in the left side of the soft top compartment area and it's a micro switch. Later model years have the reed type switch above the windshield as RKH mentioned. A magnet in the soft top closes the reed switch when the top is up and above the windshield. With either type of switch when the top is up this switch should be closed or 0 ohms and if it's not closed the front latches won't lock. Attached is a picture (thanks to MBRyan) of the earlier model year S84/4 switch.

 

On a '92 car the front locks are always pressurized to lock during a closing sequence independent of any inputs. The switch S84/4 has the purpose of signaling the roof is nearly closed so that hydraulic pressure may be reduced on the top drive cylinders.

I suppose the problem is a mechanical misalignment with the front locks are hydraulic pressure is too low.

 

Hi Bob, there was similar problem as with the guy that replaced his soft top (frame and all) that didn't have a magnet in the replaced top and the front locks wouldn't lock. This was the time I also did an experiment you suggested and when I disconnected the S84/4 switch from my car the front locks would immediately lock at first but no longer when the top was up and over the windshield. The reduction in pressure (differential mode) was based on time, I believe a six second delay before is switched to differential mode and when the top is near vertical. Prior to the differential mode the locks would lock as you mentioned but after the time delay they no longer automatically locked. This did seem to prove the controller needed the closed signal from the S84/4 switch for the front locks to lock when in differential mode. At least this is the conclusion I came to after the experiment you had me do.

Edit
I found the previous thread and after reading it again I see the difference Bob, it's the model year difference. The older model years don't share the solenoids/valves between the main and front locks like the newer models so front locks are always pressurized to lock, is this correct?

1990 500SL, Roof works but won't latch at front on...

My soft top works perfectly when opening, the front latches above the windshield release and the process works fine. When I try to close the roof, it works ok until it reaches the windshield but then the front latches wont pull it shut. These latches don't even attempt to operate. I can't...

www.benzworld.org

 

Thanks for the responses. I'll have a look into the reed switch. And sorry forgot to mention the year it is a 1996.

 

Perfect and thanks too all. The switch had moved and wasnt sensing the roof. All works fine now.

Love this forum.

Now all I need to do is change the fabric ?