Floobydust,

Thanks for the info. I also had the 55Tech Led's but they just wouldn't fit properly in the housing. Kept snapping out of place at the top mounts. I've wired various LED lights on my FJ, but your knowledge is more advanced than mine.
I ran a wire through the firewall to use a add-a-curcuit for constant power. I will probably connect to the Park Light for dimming. Any suggestions?

 

Since I am looking at a transfer case replacement in the near future, my wallet, and therefore my project budget, is definitely stunted. So, instead of going the Depot headlight route, I just replaced my Halogen lamps with a Chinese CREE H4/9003 LED conversion kit and a set of CREE LED "CAN BUS" replacement lamps. The light output isn't as "sharp" as the polyellipsoidal HID headlight level, but is is pretty darn close! And it is easily double that of the original halogen bulbs and the price can't be beat - $60 bucks for everything. All the bulb color temperatures match, and I have experienced no bulb out error messages whatsoever! Certainly one of the best bang-for-the-buck mods I have made on the G.

 

I got my 2011 G55 back from the bodyshop today after its daytime running lights installation using the largely OEM parts supplied by Mercteil. The DRLs light up fine, but since picking it up, I've been getting intermittent "Left Parking Light" errors when the headlights themselves go on (either automatically or manually). Have you experienced anything like this? Suspect this may be because the power for the DRLs is drawing off the circuit. Any thoughts on how to circumvent this? I'm uncertain as to where the bodyshop connected the power line, which may be part of the issue.

Also, where did you tuck away the modules? The bodyshop put mine right next to the air intakes and the module was very hot when I touched it. I can't imagine that's a good thing for the long-term viability of that part.

Any help is appreciated!

 

Have you checked the connection for the park lights. Could need to be reseated. I got my DRL from a vendor on eBay. Mine are Nolden led. LEDs are low wattage and the modules should stay relatively cool.

How did they power the LED DRL?
I ran my power cable thru the firewall and used a add-a-circuit to the drivers side fuse box.

 

I waiting to confirm, but I believe they spliced the power line from a source along the lighting circuit. I know they did not go to the fuse box (apparently they attempted to do so, but couldn't without removing parts of the engine). I believe it's this work-around that's resulting in the intermittent error. Will probably have to have the entire set-up re-wired, unfortunately.

 

I replied to the other thread you posted instead of this one: http://www.benzworld.org/forums/g-class/2433697-drl-install-causing-errors.html#post12726881

BTW, I still think the best place to "tap" into for a DRL install is the +12 volt supply to the auxiliary heat water pump because power is supplied to this point only when the key is in the "run" position which is also when you want your DRLs on. I believe this pump is present on all M113 based trucks and the +12 is the read/yellow wire going to the pump. I'm not sure if it is present on the later 550's, but it would not surprise me if it is and the color code is the same.

 

Hey floobydust, can you post a link where you got your setup? I'd really like to install those on my 2002 G500. Thanks!

 

I got them from a place called 55tech. Their website is Mercedes Benz W463 1990~2013 G wagon Truck Grill Tail lights mirror covers LED headlight frame projector headlights ? 55tech Motors , although I got mine via one of their eBay auctions. My G is tekite grey so I had to paint mine to match as they only come pre-painted in black, silver or white.

 

I'm not finding this "Aux water pump" on my G55. Are they different? Looking for a good power source for the DRLs in the engine bay.

 

If your G55 has the residual heat recovery function (it says "REST" on the A/C button) your truck has a coolant pump. The G55 is based on the same M113 engine as the G500, but the addition of the super charger may have caused MB to remove the pump and the REST function.

The pump should look something like this:

 

I spliced mine into the Parking Lamps using a knife and electric tape. Kinda nooby but Works like a charm.

 

thank you very much for sharing the information and passing the knowledge. i know its been awhile i hope you are still around.

will send you PM hope you can help me out.

 

hi there
i have 2008 G55 with front changed to g63 and the side markers been shaved but wiring still there (this is done by previous owner) now I'm having problems with side marker error message and i cont use my DRL as a parking light.

but your setup solve both of my problems:smile

do you think i can find ready wiring so i can just tap them where you have suggested being more easy kit. or if you could help me out by listing the parts needed and where can get them.

thank you again for solving this matter

 

Thanks for this write up. Do you know if your DRL's are Nolden?

I have an issue with mine I am trying to figure out, do you think your solution will solve my issue?

I posted it here: https://www.benzworld.org/forums/g-class/3022228-nolden-blk-led-drl-help.html

Thanks so much for your help

 

This was very helpful, but I'm going to do something a little different. I'll try to photo document as I go through it, but thought I'd pass along my slightly different "wiring attempt." I'm going to go directly to the jump post inside the engine bay with a relay. The relay switch wire will then go to the pump as outlined by Floobydust which should draw about .04 amps to flip the switch. The power will pull directly from the battery as opposed to the pump. I'll then wire the dimmer wire to the parking lamps as previously outlined. I'm going to be wiring up 2 different sets of LEDs (one for DRL's and one for Brabus Lip) so the current draw will likely be too much to run from the pump. Wish me luck!

 

I think your method should work rather nicely. Indeed, a relay would be the preferred method for high current DRL loads. Don't forget a proper fuse as you come off of the jump post.

Good luck!

 

I have a 2018 W463 and tried to tap into the aux pump but it didn't supply enough power to the LED module powering the DRL's from Nolden. I ended having to pull power from the fuse box.

 

Wired up and working well. Also wired up the Brabus lip lights to the fog lights. I'll try to explain my pictures here...

First pic - wiring into the jumper terminal (I used them for both positive and negative)

Second and third pic - location of relay. Opted for 30A relay, but I highly doubt I'll even get close to that current draw

Fourth pic - wanted to make it look as factory as possible. Put in some corrugated tubing to protect the wiring as well as organize it

Fifth pic - running wiring down to ballast. Mounted in front - I'm going to have to extend the wiring of one of the DRL's wires to reach the other side

Sixth pic - you can see where I tapped into the pump. This is simply the "switch" wire. Power and ground are coming directly from the jump terminals.

Last pic - fruit of the work

I'm going to end up connecting the switch wire from the Brabus LED's to the fog lights so I can use the factory switch to turn them on/off. I could have made them DRL's as well (by using the same switch wire), but the DRL's that I've got are 6000K vs the Brabus 4700K color so it looks kinda stupid to have them both on simultaneously. I'll use resistors to fool the computer to thinking that I have bulbs in there and then mount them to the front end metal and tap in the switch wire to one of the positives on the fogs. Should work I think. Anyway hopefully this helps someone out!

 

One item of note, and perhaps on accident, but the DRL's actually come on with the parking lights using my wiring setup as well - meaning the car doesn't need to be running for them to illuminate. Something I noticed yesterday.

 

I started install of my DRLs but ended up wiring them with parking lights.
I would rather have them to lightup when key is on.
When i tested connection to aux water pump, mine doesnt get continuous power when key is ON. I get power for 3 sec, then off for 10 sec then on again, so i was not usable for my DRLs
Any suggestion ?
2005 G55

 

Interesting. Both M113s that I have worked on have continuous power to the aux pump while the engine is running. I wonder if the pump is driven differently in the supercharged application on the G55.

 

Any suggestion to an alternative way to wire my DRL since my aux pump doesn't have continuous power. Looking for something on the engine compartment which is hot when key is on, so i can run a relay and get power and ground directly from the jump terminals.

 

I don't know if any other on-with-ignition connection points inside the engine compartment where I would be comfortable tapping in to. For another project I did find that you can route a wire through the joint where fresh air intake in the engine compartment meets the firewall. I was then able to tap into the ashtray illumination lead which on on with the ignition. That would also work for the DRLs.

 

I wasn't really thinking about changing the lighting on my G, but I got a set of the 55-Tech LED DRLs for almost nothing, so I eventually decided to give them a try. Since my G is tektite grey (753) and the surrounds we're black, the hardest part of this was painting them to match. It turns out that for tektite grey, even that expensive Glasurit paint fades over time. They're still not perfect, but rather than spend more time and money trying to get it perfect, I just want to see if I like the look.

The lights came with no documentation and looked like they had been installed before so I did some searching on the net and the forums. I found the basic installation instructions, but they are "generic" and not specific to the G. I found a lot of questions about how to wire them on the forums and a few suggestions as to how people have done it. They didn't appeal to me for various reasons, such as having to bring wiring through the firewall, not getting the proper dimming or integration with the original lights, so I came up with the following.

The method I used takes advantage of the presence of the +12 feed to the aux water pump motor. The pump (not much different that a W124 pump) and its connector is located on the right inner fender well. This is electrically hot only when the ignition switch is in the run position which exactly when you want full bright DRLs. The climate control module monitors the pump current, but it does so via the return line, so the extra current being used won't be seen by the controller. All wiring is done in the engine compartment and the right fender well and the DRLs work as one would expect in conjunction with various lighting modes. This should work for an G equipped with an aux water pump (heater booster).

There are two configurations- one is very easy and gives function as fully bright DRLs during the day and dimmed when the exterior lamps are on. The other adds DRL illumination when the truck is unlocked at at night. I have posted the schematics and some photos of what I did.

A few notes to start with:

- I chose to solder (something i have been doing for over 40 years) to various connection points. The connectors can be easily damaged by excessive heat, so if you are not experienced with soldering, use a different connection method.

- I used bullet style connectors at nearly every connection interface for easy of repair/ troubleshooting. The two shown in the schematics are the only ones that I think are really necessary and the rest are your call. Also, I drew them wrong in the schematic - the female side should always be on the powered side of the connection.

- Rubber grommets where wires pass through sheet metal (I used only existing holes) are an absolute must.

- Lastly, current budget on the aux water pump circuit is pretty tight, so I would not use this method for anything other than the 55Tech LED DRLs or LEDs that have a similar draw The 55Tech units operate in constant power mode, consuming about 6 watts at full bright and about 2 watts dimmed. The translates to about 500 mA at 12-14 volts and about 750 mA at 8-10 volts. Current draw is about 200 mA dimmed.


Pictures:

1. Basic schematic. The DRL instructions say to connect the "dimming" lead to the headlight feed, which is asinine because this will cause the DRLs to flash bright with the high beams. One needs to either connector to both high and low beam via a diode "OR" gate or connect them to the parking light circuit because they are always one with either high or low beam. I chose the later for simplicity and to avoid strange interactions with any PWM the SAM might be doing. When connected as shown here, the DRLs will be fully bright when the key is in the "run" position and will be dimmed when the key is in the "run" position AND the parking lights are on. All power for the DRLs is provided by the aux pump circuit.

2. Optional schematic. This version adds a diode "OR" date so that they can be powered either via the aux pump circuit or the parking light circuit. The DRLs will operate as above, but will also be illuminated in the dimmed mode anytime the parking lights are on, regardless of the key position. Therefore they will illuminate when the truck is unlocked/locked at night and the entry/exit lights illuminate. This also means one can eliminate the "city lights" in the head lights with the appropriate 39 ohm, 5W dummy load resistors if so desired. Power for running at full power comes via the diode OR from the aux pump circuit and power the LED DRLs in dimmed mode when the key is not on comes from the parking lamp circuit. Note that this connection method guarantees that the LED DRLs will always be in dimmed mode when powered only by parking lamp circuit so as not to trigger a lamp fault code.

3. I made a connection to the hot side of the parking light socket to provide the "dimming" signal/current, again using a bullet connector.

4. Here is the diode "OR" gate I made. Any 1 amp or greater, 50 PIC or great greater diode can be used here.

5. Here I tap into the connector that feeds the aux pump. They are easy to disassemble as make extra connections to (I re-soldered this one after I took the picture).

6. Putting it all together. I got anal retentive and made a bracket for the LED driver module that attaches to the same bolts that hold the aux pump on, but the module could be just tie wrapped to the intake drain hose. Note the rubber grommet I added in the factory hole (in the black circle).

7. Viola - all done. I put a piece of tape over the ambient light sensor so I could fool the truck into turning on the exit/entry lights when I unlocked it. The DRLs work perfectly.

The whole thing took me a couple of hours (it actually took longer to do this post!). I hope someone finds this useful.

- FD

You mentioned using a groumet to protect wire through the fender.Where did you run the wire powered wire for opposite set od DRLs on the other side?

 

Across behind the grill, tucked up so you can't see it. Again, grommets to protect where the wire passes through sheet metal.

 

Do you ending setting up the fogs with the brabus led lights? Does the resistors works to fool the computer?