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Mercedes 300te
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Quite a lot of test fitting and searching for parts. I guess I'm fortunate enough to have 2 factory 5 speed manual transmissions on my 300te.
 

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1995 E320 wagon
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443 Posts
Discussion Starter #22
Yeah, gathering parts sucks, and if you have an HFM car there are hurdles to overcome because there were no HFM cars on the states with a thing but an autotragic.

Good new everyone! It's on the road. I dunno what I was thinking but I mixed up the 1-2 and 3-4 shift rods. That made for an interesting first drive. But everything went back in nice and smooth. I had to reseal the front bearing cover, I had the trans tipped on the bell housing for a week and it dumped what little was still in there on the floor. FYI, the bolt holes are not blind, they go through the case. Looked like it was leaking from a bolt. So a quick reseal and it was good to go in. Everything else though went in nice, no fuss. And it shifts perfectly. Filled it with ATF, it had gear oil in it previously. Little noise at idle but not bad. No crunching or up/down shift issues at all.

I don't like how the clutch feels. Not that there is anything I can do about it, I just don't really like how it feels. Heavier than I thought it would be. Shifter is tight and has ok feel, but man it's like rowing a boat. I may look at shortening the levers to make it a short shifter. And the last issue I have with the swap is the rear end. I never checked the ratio till today. 2.67. Effin hell that's tall. This thing needs a 3.42 or at least a 3.27 cause it's got reeeal long legs right now haha. It's not as snappy as I want it to be, and not nearly as snappy as the auto was.

I tried recoding the ecu and that was a fail, it wouldn't take the coding number I had. So I put it back and left it. It thinks it's in park all the time. I dunno how that effects anything other than idle speed. Also I did find the Input for the clutch switch in the ECU, connector 1 pin 22 and I got that wire in there, but it does nothing right now cause the ECU is not coded for a manual. I gotta really dig into it. Also I gotta figure out the shift boot holder in the console wood. I have a few ideas that should work. And some more sound deading on the tunnel.

Overall I'm happy, finally I can move on from this project and just drive it haha. Oh, and I like the new shoes I put on too.
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IMG_20200111_195603.jpg
 

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87 300D 5 speed
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5,405 Posts
I don't like how the clutch feels. Not that there is anything I can do about it, I just don't really like how it feels. Heavier than I thought it would be. Shifter is tight and has ok feel, but man it's like rowing a boat. I may look at shortening the levers to make it a short shifter. And the last issue I have with the swap is the rear end. I never checked the ratio till today. 2.67. Effin hell that's tall. This thing needs a 3.42 or at least a 3.27 cause it's got reeeal long legs right now haha. It's not as snappy as I want it to be, and not nearly as snappy as the auto was.
A lot of the shift slop and travel goes into the rubber bushings on the ends of the shift rods. Try a derin bushing kit like this.

And yeah the 2.65 gears are stupid tall both for gas or diesel. I put a 3.07 in my diesel after the 5spd swap. 3.27 might be better for the gasser.
 

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W201 Moderator
89 190E2.6- 5-speed Manual, 95 E320 Sportsline-sold, 2001 E320 4matic Wagon-sold
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2,499 Posts
I feel 3.27 for a M104 might be too high of a ratio. My W201 M103 (2.6) has 3.27 and I feel like 3.07 would be a good compromise to bring the 70mph rpm's down a bit.
I think 3.27 would be too high for your M104 car for regular road driving.

Also PN187 and I put in shorter gear-stick levers on ours to remedy the long throw. I would buy a $10 chinese replica to see how it feels to you. And it is a quick experiment.
You can shorten the length by one to one a half inches.
 

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1,183 Posts
Here's the difference between the stock knob and how low you can get a W202/210 auto knob to thread down on the shaft. It reduces the throw quite a bit.



I will be finishing the C36 .404 trans swap today. Will give some thoughts later.
 

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1995 E320 wagon
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443 Posts
Discussion Starter #26
I'm a little shorter than the stock knob definitely. And I did a derlin bushing kit. It's just the way it is, the levers need to be shortened.

A 3.27 would prolly feel pretty good actually, and I wouldn't want anything shorter taller than that really. Remember this thing would spin 3400 at 80mph with the stock trans. Just adding the lock up convertor dropped that around 400 rpm then an overdrive bring it under 3k. I don't care if I'm closer to 3k at 80. The volvos I had I never had anything but a 3.73 in em. The manual cars would sometimes have a 3.31. But I have a 210mm diff. Can I use a diff from a w210? If I get an older diff from a w124 is the driveshaft coupler smaller? I don't wanna mod that driveshaft again. I need something bolt in, and cheep.

Also driving it, the overload switch from the auto is an issue. It messes with timing not being plugged in or being bypassed so I have to figure out a solution. You can feel the ECU doing wierd things now that it's a direct with a manual. No torque converter to absorb some of the little things. The coding has to be figured out
 

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W201 Moderator
89 190E2.6- 5-speed Manual, 95 E320 Sportsline-sold, 2001 E320 4matic Wagon-sold
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2,499 Posts
I have 78MPH at 3000 rpm and feel mine can/should be lower. But then again i'm talking apples and oranges.
You can always throw it into 4th to get more power, no such luxury when you are topped out.
But at this point is more of personal choices, I understand....
 

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87 300D 5 speed
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5,405 Posts
I just swapped the knob when the old one was falling apart. New knob took about 1.5" off of it.
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No it's not a 6spd but for $5 I'm not complaining.
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I'm a little shorter than the stock knob definitely. And I did a derlin bushing kit. It's just the way it is, the levers need to be shortened.

A 3.27 would prolly feel pretty good actually, and I wouldn't want anything shorter taller than that really. Remember this thing would spin 3400 at 80mph with the stock trans. Just adding the lock up convertor dropped that around 400 rpm then an overdrive bring it under 3k. I don't care if I'm closer to 3k at 80. The volvos I had I never had anything but a 3.73 in em. The manual cars would sometimes have a 3.31. But I have a 210mm diff. Can I use a diff from a w210? If I get an older diff from a w124 is the driveshaft coupler smaller? I don't wanna mod that driveshaft again. I need something bolt in, and cheep.

Also driving it, the overload switch from the auto is an issue. It messes with timing not being plugged in or being bypassed so I have to figure out a solution. You can feel the ECU doing wierd things now that it's a direct with a manual. No torque converter to absorb some of the little things. The coding has to be figured out
1990 300CE (early M104?) might be your best option.
 

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W201 Moderator
89 190E2.6- 5-speed Manual, 95 E320 Sportsline-sold, 2001 E320 4matic Wagon-sold
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2,499 Posts
Is that a screw on or a plastic clamp like the newer models?
Where did you source it?
 

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1995 E320 wagon
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443 Posts
Discussion Starter #30
The knob I have was an eBay special I got years ago. I could specify the shift pattern, leather color etc. It's for a 10x1 thread inside. So I took the broken stock knob I had and cut the top off, cut the end of a bolt off and welded it in the tube. Only thing is to keep the knob from spinning I need to tighten something up agaisnt the bottom of the knob. Again, I have a plan for that.

As far as the gear ratio yeah it's always personal preference. Right now it's 80mph at 2500rpm. So on a whim I went to a local junk yard today, and found a 92 300ce, hah! 3.06 in the later years, but it should help. I imagine I would be fine with that. We will see next weekend. But still, I gotta figure the coding out. That ecu has to ignore the overload switch from the auto. Without it you can feel it retarding the timing and doing things that are annoying. This is gonna be the hardest part of the damn job. If I figure out how it normally operated maybe I can build a circuit to fool the ECU, but otherwise it's gotta be set to a manual transmission.

Also after driving it all day today, the clutch is heavy, really kinda sucks. I never expected it to be this stiff. All the hydraulics are new. Centric parts, new Mercedes rubber line. The clutch fork looked fine, the system bled easily. Engagement is pretty close to the floor, but it's really stiff. Anyone have thoughts? I've read sometimes aftermarket cylinders can sometimes have a slightly different bore size. Maybe the slave bore is too big? I dunno
 

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W201 Moderator
89 190E2.6- 5-speed Manual, 95 E320 Sportsline-sold, 2001 E320 4matic Wagon-sold
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2,499 Posts
Thanks, I was looking for something more permanent (screwed in) but all I see are plastic clamp variety and plenty of them.
 

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1995 E320 wagon
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443 Posts
Discussion Starter #33
The thread on the shifter is a 10x1. You can always modify what ever hardware for a thread on one. I never liked the clamp on ones
 

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Mercedes-Benz
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1,183 Posts
In my experience, the Sachs 300E clutch is pretty heavy at first, but it chills out some after the pressure plate springs get worked a bit. Clutch only has about 2k miles on it, and at this point the pedal is a little firmer than most other MBs but not excessively so. I installed all new hydraulics, OEM FTE brand master and slave and all new lines, at the same time.

C36 manual swap is done, but I think the motor harness is bad and exhibited some weird behavior after we got it back together. HFM is not something I know anything about so I can't speak on it, but the owner is on it. Unfortunately we were only able to cruise around at partial throttle to verify the trans swap was a success, which it was.
 
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