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1972 Jaguar XJ6 & 2004 Mercedes S500 Sport
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Discussion Starter #1
Last weekend while visiting some friends in MI I was involved in a side collision. The car fishtailed into a telephone pole. Fortunately my friend wasn't injured though his ear was ringing for a bit from the side and curtain airbags going off. The insurance company totaled it out but and I was going to let them keep the car. It was supposedly settled but I'm now wanting to keep the car. I shouldn't have any trouble with it since I haven't signed over the car yet but I'm going to get it fixed with used parts. I know it will have a salvage title and I can only henceforth have liability insurance on it, but this isn't such a bad thing since my insurance would be astronomical if I bought another one of these and put on comprehensive insurance (or any car requiring comp. ins.). Regardless, here are two pictures I took of the car. While driving away, the car had a shake. I'm betting that one or more of the rear suspension links are bent/broken. The wheel doesn't LOOK weird, meaning severely bent or out of place indicating bad rear links, but of course all that is moot since I haven't had the car in the air yet.

I've already priced out body parts in the DFW area, such as quarter panel, door, air bags, rear bumper cover, etc. If you guys know of anyone parting a car out or cheap part places, let me know. So far I've found the best deals on car-part. com, discountbodyparts.com, and ebay. Between those 3 sources, some of the parts really aren't that bad though I still can't find a decently cheap rear bumper cover.

Here are the two pictures taken the next day... These photos don't show it, but the car is down on the front. Is there an air tank in the RR? While it of course could be worse, I'm thinking I probably broke an air line. The rear was still up even 4 days after the accident.
 

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1972 Jaguar XJ6 & 2004 Mercedes S500 Sport
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Discussion Starter #2
One thing I didn't mention, and this is important, but all the doors open/close fine.

Thanks,

David
 

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W210.265/2001, W220/S500/2000, Porsche 997 C2S/2006, GMC K1500/1992
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If insurance totaled your car and you try to buy it back, they will release it to you at a much higher price than the salvage title will worth. Unless you re negotiate the settlement and avoid the salvage title. Then you can keep the car with good title. If you want to keep the settlement with salvage title, it is cheaper to bid it back at auction.
 

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1972 Jaguar XJ6 & 2004 Mercedes S500 Sport
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Discussion Starter #4
It will only cost me $1k to buy it back from insurance. I have to check to see if it will be a salvage title or not.

Best Regards,

David
 

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Your car definitely worth more than a $1000. With the years on the car, our book value is down to 15K. Proper repair from dealer shop will be over 2K. Can you tell what is your total amount ?
 

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1972 Jaguar XJ6 & 2004 Mercedes S500 Sport
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Discussion Starter #6
The car has high miles: 155k. I had to argue a bit, but inevitably I got a cash pay out of $13k. Keep in mind, this car was in perfect condition. Garage kept its whole life, and I bought it from the original owner.

Best Regards,

David
 

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1972 Jaguar XJ6 & 2004 Mercedes S500 Sport
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Discussion Starter #7
The body shop I took it to estimated $15k to repair it without getting into any possible suspension issues. Evidently, the door panels for our cars run about $1,900 from Mercedes. Since both side air bags deployed, the car would need 2 door panels. Then, the door from Mercedes runs about $1,100. Just to fix the rear door would cost ~$4,000, thus why they wrote it off as a total loss. Of course you then have to replace the curtain air bag and weld in a new quarter panel. Because the hit was hard enough, they were assuming there would also be damage behind the quarter. Since I'm fixing it on the cheap, I just want it to look good again. I'll drive the car for awhile before selling it so I'm not worried about the salvage title or hidden damage behind the quarter.

Thanks,

David

Thanks,

David
 

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Buy all the parts from the guy selling at our forum and I believe you can get your car back in a perfect shape. If all your doors closed properly, it should not have much problem to bondo the panels. You may want to fly there to collect the parts into pallet freight. I think you may save more than buying from junk yards.
 

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if you care at all about how this turns out, don't buy aftermarket body panels.

Further...$2k to repair? HA, in what universe?

I don't see why you would buy this car back?

you will dump a lot of money into fixing it, only to have an unsellable salvage car.

Given how cheap these things are nowadays, why bother?

Get a newer S600 for a few k more than your ins. check.
 

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Sorry, it was a typo error, it should be 20K, thanks.
If his car only has cosmetic damages, it will be fixed and put in use daily without problem. Dealer shop will take $20K but indie asian body shop will be 4K. I fixed my E when it was rear end appraised at 8K for 2K. Jersey is much more expensive than TEXAN, sorry.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
If I supply the parts, I found a shop that will install all parts (bumper cover, quarter, and door) for ~$1,500. In TX you can find labor much cheaper.

I'm buying some parts from the guy here on the forum but we both agreed it wasn't worth his time or my money to buy the big body panels from him. I found a local quarter for $300 and a door for another $300. The body guy thinks he can save the door so I can probably save that money. They're also putting it on a rack machine to verify it's straight. As I previously mentioned, all the doors open/close perfectly. I don't need this car to be perfect, just a nice driver. It's that or buy a mid-90's cheap American car.

Thanks,

David
 

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david
I support your move, I really think your $ is spend wisely for the repair. Try to get a non salvage title for your future sales.
 

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If you can get your car working, you may check out the option of disable the sensor for the air bags instead of RR. It is expensive. Just tell your kids avoid that side of door seat. But your passenger can sue you if they ever get hurt and the bag does not deploy. It is better to keep it as personal ride for legal responsibility. Or sign a waiver before get on long trip. Make a sign behind the fronts seats " Side air bags not working, ride at your own risk"
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I found all three used airbags for $325 total. I'm investigating what other parts I need to replace. For now I'll replace the bags then once the car is sorted out, I'll take it to the dealer for them to plug in STAR. Once they do that, they can tell me which sensors are bad.

There's no way a dealer would disable the SRS light. I think they'd stay away from it for liability reasons. They wouldn't even disable the TPMS for me!

On another note, any idea why the front of the car would drop over 24 hours but the rear would stay up? Is there a reservoir back there for it that I may have damaged or possibly an air ling? I'm mostly confused because the rear was up even 4 days after the accident.

Thanks,

David

P.S. Turns out I won't get a salvage title after all. It will show up on carfax, but the title will stay clean.
 

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The front struts are more towards leaking due to the design fault. When your battery is down, it will not power the pump for refill. Put floor stand on front side to avoid damage to your ball Joints. Collapsed suspension state will damage the BJ boots.
 

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That vehicle is certainly not "wrecked"..

Here in the land of corruption, that can be fixed for LESS than $1500 including all parts + labor.. And it will look new again :D

All the best, seems to be just very minor cosmetic damage
 

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Yeh ! Slave or child labor won't count in the land of freedom. But we have some undocumented one from south of our state line. In the northern hemisphere, only illegal labor is "Child" labor, according to our congress advocates, to lay the problem of cheap imports from China or other Asian countries. It is because 1800 slaves never settle into Asia and there are no more slaves in Europe or America because they were free 250 years ago and you can not put your own color skin to be slave.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
daisound, the battery isn't dead. Plus, the front air shocks weren't leaking before the accident; in fact, I replaced the top seals in them about 2 weeks before this fateful day.

Thanks,

David
 

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Discussion Starter #19

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Just to update everyone, the car is at the body shop. I'm attaching several photos. Before I took it to the body shop, I replaced the rear subframe with a used assembly from a local junkyard. It turns out the mount for one of the upper links broke clean off the subframe. Because I found a used bare subframe for $200, I opted to replace the whole thing rather than mess with trying to have the old one welded since the subframe would have to come out anyway.

I've spent the past week running around to different junkyards picking up parts. I bought a quarter panel (rather a quarter of the car--see picture), the RR door, and finally found a proper '04+ Sport rear bumper cover (I had to buy the whole assembly since they wouldn't separate the cover). I took all the parts and car to the body shop Wed. after the subframe repair (13 hours!). If you have questions about to R&R the rear subframe, I could definitely give you some pointers.

Finally, I dropped by the body shop this afternoon and took a look at his progress. It seems to be coming along nicely! I'm impressed with his attention to detail. For instance, every panel being replaced on the car is having the spot welds drilled out then re-welded at those points, even the pieces behind the quarter such as the wheel arch. He removed the upholstered trim that surrounds the door on the body to expose those spot welds. This way, when he's done, the car will only have a little bondo where he had to join the seam at the C-pillar and where the rocker meets the quarter panel which is about 8 inches forward of the rear tire. He showed me the joint. I'm excited! In the meantime, attached are pictures of the broken mount on the subframe; the replacement quarter panel as I received it; two pictures of the subframe about to go back in the car; and finally, what it looked like today with part of the quarter cut out to expose any potential damage behind it (very little, with the exception of the wheel arch which he'll replace from the quarter panel assembly I got from the junkyard).

As for the airmatic issues I thought I was having, they seemed to have gone away! Even when the car sat for a week it never dropped an inch. The airmatic warning always comes up but I assume that's only because the wire going to the cylinder on the side of the RR air strut broke in the accident. I'll splice it together--it looks like there are 3 wires inside the wrapping--once I get it back from the body shop.

Going forward, the next pressing issue is the RF wheel. I can't see anything bent in the suspension but it has severe negative camber when the wheel is point straight. When you drive it the wheel must be turned to 10 o'clock just to go straight. You can visually see that the tire sticks out at the top. Because I can't find anything bent I'm wondering if it could have just knocked the alignment out that far? Either way, I'll take it to a nearby alignment shop and see if it's an adjustment or something more serious like a bent control arm (which looks straight). Apologies for the length.

Best Regards,

David
 

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