I would judge that choprboy had a better overall grasp of the situation. As in all things Mog, the basic answer is It Depends. Werner configures the F64 all sorts of ways, depending on PTO speed, and line pull desired. One thing I would very much caution you on is the increased line pull on the first wrap, if you build a reduced diameter drum. A 25% reduction in drum diameter will result in a 33% increase in line pull, all other things being equal. Winch work is inherently potentially dangerous; don't add to the risks unawares.1- PTO speed: 540/1000 selectable. Engine RPM: It depends.
2- Drum length: Same length as Werner F64. Drum diameter: A little bit smaller than Werner F64.
3- Lenght of rope: 15-25 meter.
4- 8 ton at bare drum, 4 ton at last turn of the steel rope.
5- Pulling speed: It depends on situation.
I plan to build it approximate dimensions of Werner F64.
Yes, it should be calculated, but there is a physical working sample in front of us.
I just wanted to learn worm gear ratio of W F64 before buying a reducer.
I had been noodling on the engineering of an F64 winch, per the OP, and this is now the invitation to flail away on the subject. I re-read the previously posted spec sheets for the F64, and found there was more to work with than I originally thought. Mostly as a substantiation of the above, from Speedwoble, but also hopefully illuminating for the OP ( who seems not to want to calculate), here is how I see the numbers. For my convenience, I converted all into inches/ foot-lbs, etc.Spider gear mounted the winch from a US military truck on his Unimog. A little bit of digging can turn one up for a couple of hundred bucks. A winch is a substantial challenge to engineer from scratch.
I am seriously grateful (I am not always serious, but when I am, I use the word serious (!)) for your response here. Now I know at least one person clearly got my point, which is to be very aware of the hazards and pitfalls.The general sentiment here is that a DIY winch will not be cheaper, better, or safer. That last point is extremely important. I'm not talking about “denting a fender - safety”; i mean serious “removal of body parts - safety”.........
I totally support creativity and DIY projects. It is also important to go into such a project with as much information as possible. Not to mention, realistic expectations of the outcome. Only you can decide if the return on investment is justified.
Well, it is worse than that. I started teaching myself drafting at age 10, and was allowed to take our high school drafting classes while in junior high (Dad had pull). Mid 60's, the industry standard was draft on paper, lay down the vellum, and ink a tracing with double nib pens. I doubt anyone under age 50 even knows what they are. Missteps were costly; worse than traditional typing with carbon copies, you just start over. I still have all my instruments, and still do most of my own projects by hand (but at least I am up to pencil on mylar). I have now progressed to using Adobe Illustrator, however."but ultimately got a degree in architecture. "
I knew it... I could tell by the handwriting and solution approach. Your handwriting also leads me to believe you went through school before the wide use of CAD in design studios.
My first maxim of of drafting is if you can't do it by hand, put the mouse down.Your handwriting also leads me to believe you went through school before the wide use of CAD in design studios.
Those little snippets there would be enough to make me leave a project like this well alone unless very experienced at fabrication and engineering. When that sort of force lets go it will make a mess of anything that stands in it's way!torque on the drum or driven/ worm gear 16000# x (2.78" / 12 in/ foot) = 3706 foot-lbs
The 4 inch pitch diameter of the worm gear means a force of 22191 lbs on the tooth face, which will also be the force on the thrust bearing of the worm/ input shaft. Kind of substantial. I suspect lube is also important.
If one procures a ready made gearbox, it must attach to the winch frame sufficiently to resist that 3706 ft-lbs, or it under load it will simply wind itself around the winch frame until it rips the PTO drive shaft apart.
I swore I'd now stay off this thread, but just can't help myself. My physics teacher Dad (cited previously) would propose a bet with every new physics class, that he could move the entire class with ONLY 100' of rope and a large standing tree. And only a fool would take that bet. Answer below:.......come from Billavista over at pirate, his big book of winching seems to get flogged around a bit
......Using your sheaves and anchors the right way is key to making what you have work. I'd rather keep moving the anchor point(s) than risk killing the winch.