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Discussion Starter #1
Jeesh!

You'd think I could get home for more than 24 hours with my new car before having to post a HELP! SOS! message.

Here goes...

Yesterday (during my harrowing, grueling maiden voyage) my wipers and fluid worked fine. (Thank God, because I don't know what I would be driving right now if they'd quit in the middle of that mess! LOL! :eek:)

Alas, that was yesterday. Today, they did not put out any fluid. I naturally assumed (I know, I know...) that I was low on fluid. On to Pep Boys I went, manual in hand to try to figure out how to open the hood and refill the thing, when much to my surprise and chagrin...the tank was nearly full! Rocket scientist that I am ;), I came to the quick deduction that the problem is not a shortage of fluid rather something far more sinister. :cool:

Since I am just in my infancy of training as cool chick MB defect detective, this is above my skill level. :dunno:

I have searched for clues here, but most related to headlamp wiper motors/pumps etc. This (I ascertained tonight with more swift detective work :D) does not apply to me because I don't have headlamp wipers.

I am learning lots here today folks...;)

Questions are this:

Could this be the pump pure and simple? How do I test for this? (I heard mention of listening for it...I'll have to wait for dh for that.)

Could some other problem be causing this?

Wipers work.

Fluid does not come out of front or rear nozzles.

I was hoping to wait at least a week before putting on my mechanic sleuthing hat, but apparently my silver lady was just way to excited to get started in this love affair. Boy, she moves fast! :D

Cyndi
 

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The easiest initial check is to get hubby to operate the sprayer while you listen or vica verca. If it does not work, check the fuse - not sure whether it's in the one on the side of the dashboard panel or in the one under the rear seat. If the fuse is O.K., then you can either apply 12V directely to the pump after unplugging it from the standard wiring or just take the chance and buy a new one. Normally the pumps are very reliable.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
a few more clues

hmmm...

We have a few more clues here...

The pump does not make any noise when called to action. (Sleeping on the job apparently! :bash: )

DH took her for a spin (to get me some much needed vino...) and noticed that the high beam indicator also does not come on. (This DID work yesterday too.)

He dutifully checked under the rear seat and the in-dash fuse locations but nothing appeared amiss....

However he tried to find fuses 41,43 and 45 (which by looking at the sticky's are all related to this problem) and was not seeing them. (It is dark outside and he's lookin' with a flash light...plus God love him, he's old! and Blind too! :D)

Any suggestions here???

Just for clarification sake, is the rear window wiper fluid also regulated by the same pump as the front windshield?

Both are non-functional.

DH is thinking that with the additional symptom of the high beam light indicator not coming on, there may be something other than the pump at fault.

Help!:surrender:
Cyndi
 

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Further update

Look like it is 5 (or 11) & 19 under the rear seat.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
BTw...

Dh is now telling me (ahhh the plot thickens) he has not seen (remember, he is a man and has vision issues :D) any fuses with a number over 18.

Help me lead this horse to water... where should he be looking?

1-12 were next to light switch on dash assembly

1-18 under rear seat....

Where are the rest?
TIA!!
Cyndi
 

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It's 5 and 19 under the rear seat. There is also a fuse box in the engine compartment -- also labeled starting from from 1.:eek: Some times the fuse may look O.K. but is not working. There should be spare fuses in the box to swap out with. At the minimum pull out fuse and reseat.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
found all the fuses but...

we're wondering about a couple of things...

I am going to the local Napa store to pick up a range of fuses to replace and have on hand, and a fuse puller which is missing from our tool kit.

When dh pulled the rear seat, a virtual gooey candy store was found under there. Apparently, the detail shop was very thorough with the full clean up they did :thumbsup:...worse yet, apparently the prior owner was very careful about food and beverages :)wtf:)...this could explain some bad (gunked up) fuses!

I read however on other posts last night that sometimes a bad fuse can be caused by other issues...ie a pump about to go bad. Are there other things we should be investigating or checking on? Dh seems to think that fuses typically blow because of some other fault, or issue and are designed to protect more expensive components.

Are these known MB issues or just more typical 'car' issues. Any insight to W210 specifics for this problem would be great.

Thanks to all for so much fantastic support!!

I am very appreciative of all the great information and humor!:)
Cyndi
 

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I wouldn't worry about finding the other problem, unless couple of fuses blow up.
It is quite common on electric motors, that when not used for long time, the bearings or pumps seals stick. Than when you try to run it, it blows the fuse. Once the bearing lock gets broken -it works without a problem.
Make sure you buy tester light with new fuses.
 

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Car

was from south,washer worked on way up north,sub 10f temps in the area above bingH ---check that the washer fluid did not freeze in the nozzles and shut the system down by blockage or blowing the fuse.
:bowdown:eek:hlord
 

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In case you didn't know, those cars have washer fluid heaters. Even if the fluid freeze on parking, the heater will melt it right away. Assuming the reservoir didn't break in the process.
The fluid I bought last week in CA was -20F rated. The summer fluid is only 32F rated. Watch what you pour under the hood.
 

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Frozen Fluid

Ensure that the NOZZLES are not frozen. Kajtek you are correct that the fluid reservoir is heated. However, and correct me if I am wrong, these beauties do not run the heater through the hose to the nozzle. I believe that is what Ohlord was getting at. Run a hairdryer on the nozzles and the lines, check connections, and try again.
 

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You are correct that frozen nozzle will stop fluid from spraying, but this will not stop the pump from working.
If the pump is not turning, you have to start troubleshooting there.
 

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LIke kaitek1 say's about sticky motors. Start with the fuse and yes buy a light tester they are a big time saver and money saver. Learn how to ground and test your fuses. you will be suprised how many options that you do not know about because they do not work. Also you have the very popular relays. In my S the are the infamous siemans and I am changing slowly to hella. Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
okay...

lemme see if I have this straight...

Check the fuses...(can we use a voltage meter to do that instead of the light reader? DH was planning on using a voltage meter we own...is this as reliable a method?)

Replace if necessary (probably blown at this point if due to frozen lines)

Check the lines and assure they or nozzles are not frozen. (If so, remove reservoir and DUMP fluid and exchange with south pole rated ;). )


Finally, if lines/nozzles are unfrozen and fuses are good/replaced and still no fluid, replace pump.

I am not up on the 'relay' thing...can someone give me a hint as to what I should research there? (ie what are the key words to search for in the forums) If there is a simple part to replace that may prevent further phantom problems from cropping up...fill me in and we'll do it now!

Have I synthesized everyone's advice into one neat package? :wink_2:

Thanks again everyone,

You are all swell :)

Cyndi
 

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You

want to use the ohm meter setting of the multi meter to test for continuity in the fuse.set it to low ohm.


Pump could run with frozen nozzles but after a while on that load it would overheat and trip the system overload protection. K
:bowdown:
 

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Voltmeter might work, but it might show "ghost voltage" and with brass tips it might have hard time to make connection thru the oxidation and dirt. on electrical components.
I have test light with sharp tip that allow me test 25 fuses in about 10 seconds, so the 99 cents investment works for me.
If I am not mistaken, the washer is using centrifugal pump, that can be run with pluged outlet indefinitely. At least running pump never blow a fuse on me.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Okay so,

Replacing fuses 5, 19, 41 and 43 did end up giving us back our washer pump. (DH bought a fuse kit with light tester ;).) It was either 41 or 43 that fixed the washer pump.

However, the highbeam indicator is still not working.

Dh says that the highbeam indicator (in the gauge cluster) shares a fuse with the right high beam. Right high beam works but indicator does not (so he did not replace that fuse).

Any chance this is symptomatic of the relay problem someone else illuded to earlier today?

Is this just a coincidental additional electrical glitch?

Any ideas?:help:

Thanks gang....At least I was able to drive my silver lady this evening in the snow storm and still clear my windshield! :)

Ya'll are the best! :bowdown:

Cyndi
 

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bulb

is blown,pull the cluster and replace the bulb.
bulb at dealer.diy in the diy,hooks online or make your own,or try the suction cup method.
:bowdown:eek:hlord
 

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Dirt in wiper fluid can plug the pump or nozzle

Dirt in wiper fluid can plug up the pump or nozzle. I checked the wiper fluid reservoir and saw a lot of dirt. Pumped the fluid out, cleaned the reservoir in and out. Put back the fluid filtered thru a kitchen paper.





 
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