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1984 U900,1976 MB4/94
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
...picked up a Philips and Tempro (Same maker as the coolant heater, made in Canada, available at Canadian Tire) magnetic oil pan heater. It doesn't get hot enough to worry about it cooking the oil, but gets just warm enough to keep the 15w-40 flowing, though I'm considering 0w-40 for the winter.....
Trev,
Instead of using 0w-40 for the winter, You might want to consider using 15w-40 synthetic oil, Amsoil's 15w-40 Heavy Duty Diesel & Marine Oil (stock# AME), it remains fluid down to -44°F or Amsoil's 5w-30 Heavy Duty Diesel (stock# HDD), it remains fluid down to -58°F. Both are good for year round use.



Stephen Trunnell
Amsoil Dealer #206107 since 1980

84 U 900
76 MB 4/94
79 MB 4/94 for sale
79 MB 4/94 parts truck for sale
 

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250GD Wolf
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Stephen,

Perhaps this is good information for another thread? I'd love to have discussion around engine oil for cold climates.

Currently I'm using Co Op D-MO Advanced Formula 15w 40, its listed right on the Mercedes 228.1 spec sheet for multigrade oils: Co-op Super CF4, SAE 15W-40 recommended.

(11th down on this list: Mercedes-Benz Betriebsstoff-Vorschriften: Motoröl, Getriebeöl, ATF, Kühlmittel, Bremsflüssigkeiten ) and its available locally.

They don't list any amsoil on the sheet (though I'm not doubting its exceptional oil) unless its under a different name? or perhaps none on that sheet are synthetic?, or its on a different list, I'm still learning ;) I'm running dino oil right now, I can change it often enough, but I'm certainly not against going with synthetic oil in the future.

I might try the Co Op Sonic SL 0w-40 as it has the same specifications:

D-MO SL is recommended for use in diesel engines that require CI-4 PLUS, CI-4, CH-4, CG-4, CF-4, CF/SL, SJ performance, as well as the performance of obsolete API specifications CE, CD, CD-II/SH, SG. In Europe, it is recommended for ACEA superior performance levels E3/E5. D-MO SL is also recommended for use in diesel engines that require Mack EO-N Premium Plus (03), EON Plus, EO-M, EO-M Plus, Volvo VDS 1 and 2, Daimler/Benz 228.1 or 228.3, Cummins CES 20071, 20072, 20076 or 20078, MTU/DDC type 1 or 2, Detroit 93K214, L93K215 as well as CAT ECF-1 performance, D-MO SL provides extended drain capability for John Deere or Case engines.
To me that 228.1 specification is all I needed to see :)

I'd like to stick with what is specified for the engine by Ma Benz, but I don't think it gets quite as cold over there as here (-37c in the dead of winter)

I've had some discussions with a friend regarding what the Canadian Military is running in there newer Diesel Gwagons, but its a harder comparison, as there newer engines, and different specifications.

-Trev


Trev,
Instead of using 0w-40 for the winter, You might want to consider using 15w-40 synthetic oil, Amsoil's 15w-40 Heavy Duty Diesel & Marine Oil (stock# AME), it remains fluid down to -44°F or Amsoil's 5w-30 Heavy Duty Diesel (stock# HDD), it remains fluid down to -58°F. Both are good for year round use.



Stephen Trunnell
Amsoil Dealer #206107 since 1980

84 U 900
76 MB 4/94
79 MB 4/94 for sale
79 MB 4/94 parts truck for sale
 

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1984 U900,1976 MB4/94
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39 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
...
They don't list any amsoil on the sheet (though I'm not doubting its exceptional oil) unless its under a different name? or perhaps none on that sheet are synthetic?, or its on a different list, I'm still learning ;) ....-Trev
Trev,

Is this the specification your looking for?

Steve

AMSOIL Synthetic Heavy Duty Diesel & Marine Motor Oil is recommended for diesel engines, gasoline engines and other applications that require any of the following worldwide specifi cations:

SAE 15W-40
API CI-4+, CF, CF-2, SL, SJ, SH
ACEA A3/B3, E2, E3, E5, E7
Global DHD-1
JASO DH-1
Mack EO-M+ EO-N Premium Plus '03
DDC Power Guard 93K214
Caterpillar ECF-1A, ECF-2
Cummins CES 20071, 20072, 20076, 20077, 20078
Volvo VDS-2, VDS-3
MB 228.1, 228.3, 229.1
MAN 271/3275
MTU Type 2
Allison C-4
 

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250GD Wolf
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Yup, good discussion brings good info.

Now my only decision is to go synthetic or not. I don't want to develop any leaks from switching.
 

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1980 U1000 Turbo...
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1,522 Posts
What is the "S3 quality" of oil that is only to be used in turbo charged engines added as a footnote on page 77 of the Operators Handbook? I can find nowt on it.
 

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U1600Ag
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1,357 Posts
Yup, good discussion brings good info.

Now my only decision is to go synthetic or not. I don't want to develop any leaks from switching.
How many oil change you do a year ? I wonder if I should go 0W40 and then 15W40 or 5W40 all year

I went with synthetic and It doesn't appear to leak. No drips but my engine is dirty so maybe it ooze oil out a bit.

Here's what I use, pricey but within MB specs (.3)
 

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250GD Wolf
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Mogish,

I've been told the rear seals in these trucks tend to "seep", on the SBU's maybe moreso with the thinner synthetics, there's a plug in the bell housing you can take out, see if there's any fluid in there, I know an SBU owner that's rear seal leaked a little for years and years, eventually filling up the bell housing, and contaminating the clutch, he took that plug out and over a liter came spilling out. I've talked with a few other sbu owners since and both of them had fluid in there. Mine hasn't yet, just a light film.
 

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Mogish,

I've been told the rear seals in these trucks tend to "seep", on the SBU's maybe moreso with the thinner synthetics, there's a plug in the bell housing you can take out, see if there's any fluid in there, I know an SBU owner that's rear seal leaked a little for years and years, eventually filling up the bell housing, and contaminating the clutch, he took that plug out and over a liter came spilling out. I've talked with a few other sbu owners since and both of them had fluid in there. Mine hasn't yet, just a light film.
Dang ! You got me worried now.

I would sure like to have more info on the location of said plug.
 

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250GD Wolf
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Well my truck has a Claas Overdrive, but its right in front of where the old clutch cover bolted to (now the class od) Here's some super crappy pictures (sorry, its dark out) but you can see it takes the same 14mm allen/hex key as the diff's.

My fear is long steamed, and probably not applicable to these trucks, but my first car was a 1956 Chevrolet, with the original 235 "blue flame" inline 6. I put many miles on it, then switched from dino oil to full synthetic. EVERYTHING started to leak. Keeping in mind that engine was 40 years old, I'm not saying that if I changed the OM366 over tomorrow, the same thing would happen, but it was an experience to say the least. Lots of guys have no issues with synthetic whatsoever.
 

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U1550L/37 Doka, U1700L/38, Merc 1017A
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the only reason not to use synthetics is if you cant afford them otherwise switch and never look back. this is even more true in colder climates. your motor will leak becuase you have a bad seal. if anything, using a better lubricant will extend the life of the seals. when regular oil is at normal operating temp, it is just as runny as the synthetic kind.
 

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250GD Wolf
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the only reason not to use synthetics is if you cant afford them otherwise switch and never look back. this is even more true in colder climates. your motor will leak becuase you have a bad seal. if anything, using a better lubricant will extend the life of the seals. when regular oil is at normal operating temp, it is just as runny as the synthetic kind.
Tmax,

I totally agree, likely what happened with that 40 year old engine, is the seals were bad, and had been for many years, but gummed up with old caked on dried up oils, and the detergents in the synthetic oil I was using cleaned up the old sludge, and leaks became apparent.

My truck sat for most of its life being a fire rescue truck, I'm just hoping the same thing does happen. I'm going to be going to my local co-op and picking up some synthetic this weekend, just not sure if I need to go 0w-40 or 15w-40

However, one has to check on the formulation of there synthetic's, Some are alcohol based and bad for certain types of seals, some are propane based, ect.
 

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I use hard-to-get Delvac 1 SHC 5W40. It is rated 228.5.
It has a TBN of 16 and is intended for long drain intervals.
With my 29L sump I will run 25-30K mi (700-900 hrs) here in
Australia, with 228.5 top-ups.
The U500 NA spec is 700 hrs with 228.3 oil and EGR. My EGR is
gone and the non-EGR Euro spec with 228.5 is 1200 hrs. And mine has a centrifuge from the factory, only provided on EGR versions.
Charlie
 

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250GD Wolf
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I'm not sure, but google reviles:

Mercurygold Lubricants

Its not multigrade, but my manual doesn't list multigrade anyway.

Suitable for crankcase lubrication of large cross head type, high-output, low-speed diesel engines, equipped with oil-cooled pistons, used in stationary, railroad and marine propulsion services.
 

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'88 U-1300L, '70 406, '78 406, '78 416 project, '82 406, '57 404, '65 404, '70 404, '68 Haflinger.
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I took that clutch housing plug out and stuck it in the glovebox for use when fording. When I got my truck the plug was in and there was a clutch slave cylinder leak. This was the 'donut' type cylinder internal to the housing (W/Claas OD). When I noticed the clutch fluid level going down but not coming out anywhere I removed the plug and found about a pint of fluid.

BTW Trev, I switched my OM-366A to synthetic for a couple of cycles and had no leaks. I went back to dino juice because I can't stand seeing dirty oil and change it often (and my engine tends to load the oil with carbon). Down here 'near' the south we can get by with 15W40 all year. In your cold climes you will see vast improvement in starting and faster driveability with the synthetic engine oil.

I believe in synthetics and will go back to it in the engine as soon as I get the engine oil centrifuge installed :)

Bob
 

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'78 Mog 416.141 DoKa
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the only reason not to use synthetics is if you cant afford them otherwise switch and never look back.
I agree ! Another reason NOT to, is if the heap you put synthetic into has a tendency to deposit it on the ground ;)

HOWEVER, when you switch to synthetic lubricant, don't fall into the trap that some do. Seriously EVALUATE your change interval, either through good old common sense or by using a oil analysis service. Synthetic lubrication stays working for you for a very long time. Don't wast your money by removing it when it still has plenty of life left !
 

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250GD Wolf
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So one could send there oil in (I've seen the CAT billboards that do oil analysis, I'd assume its a similar deal?) and they would be able to determine if your oil is due for a change? What would the report look like? What would you look for on the data sheet to determine if your oil is good for "X" more km's (sorry, miles ;) ) Does it list just foreign material, or things like lubricity ect?
 

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'88 U-1300L, '70 406, '78 406, '78 416 project, '82 406, '57 404, '65 404, '70 404, '68 Haflinger.
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Here's the company that tests my oil:

Blackstone Labs

Their website answers all the questions you just asked.

I don't test every oil change, only if I am using synthetic oil. I just had a 404 go for 5 years without an oil change (low mileage) but that was more of a "what if" experiment. If the oil testing costs more than the oil change, like on a 404 (5 quarts), it's smarter to just change it. The U-1300 requires 4 gallons so a test is worth it to at least double the change interval, IMHO.

Bob

So one could send there oil in (I've seen the CAT billboards that do oil analysis, I'd assume its a similar deal?) and they would be able to determine if your oil is due for a change? What would the report look like? What would you look for on the data sheet to determine if your oil is good for "X" more km's (sorry, miles ;) ) Does it list just foreign material, or things like lubricity ect?
 

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250GD Wolf
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Well I switched over, now running Co Op D-MO Sonic SL Full syntetic in 0w40. Pour point -57C

Whopping $5.20/Liter.

Now with the coolant heater, oil pan heater, winter oil, only thing I'm missing is the air line anti freeze device. My Old DoKa had one, wonder if I should put on on this truck...

Its not cheap http://www.eurotruck-importers.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1411 but neither are frozen lines :)
 
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