The check-valve has one nipple on one end that connects to the hose going to the pump and 2 nipples on the other end that go to each spray nozzle. Most washer problems are due to the nozzles being clogged. New ones at the dealer are very cheal. Remember to get new 90 degree elbows that connect to the nozzles also. They will break when you try to remove them. The nozzles are easliy removed by depressing 2 tangs on the back side of the nozzles with a pair of needle nose pliers and the news one simply snap in place from the top side of the hood. Might as well replace all of the hose while you are at it. Its cheap too. I would recommend that you remove the washer fluid tank and clean it out. I put mine in the dish washer. Be sure to remove the pump before you wash the tank and replace the rubber grommet where the pump snaps into the tank. The whole project is very inexpensive and easy to do. Good luck, Cliff
Windshield Washer
Hi Gang,
I’ve been having some problems with my windshield washer system not spraying and I need some help on the correct order of all the parts.
Currently, the set-up is from the pump there is a hose to a “T� fitting, one end of the “T� is attached directly to the nozzle and the other end is to a hose that connects to the check valve which connects to more hose and then to an elbow that the attaches directly to the other nozzle.
My first question is should the check valve be before both nozzles or after the first one? Also, should the “T� and the Elbow hook directly to the nozzle, or should it attach via a hose?
While I’m at it, how do you remove the nozzles from the hood if they are found to be defective?
Thanks in advance for the help!
I’ve been having some problems with my windshield washer system not spraying and I need some help on the correct order of all the parts.
Currently, the set-up is from the pump there is a hose to a “T� fitting, one end of the “T� is attached directly to the nozzle and the other end is to a hose that connects to the check valve which connects to more hose and then to an elbow that the attaches directly to the other nozzle.
My first question is should the check valve be before both nozzles or after the first one? Also, should the “T� and the Elbow hook directly to the nozzle, or should it attach via a hose?
While I’m at it, how do you remove the nozzles from the hood if they are found to be defective?
Thanks in advance for the help!
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
Funny you should mention it, but my bung has gone from my washer bottle so I'm without washers at the moment!
But I looked last night at my set up and found nothing that looked like a check valve! My hose comes directly from my washer motor to a t-piece the leg of the t going directly to the nozzle and other side going to the other nozzle (via an elbow).
The problems I get are the hose being crushed by the bonnet hinge, but otherwise I just use compressed air to clean the nozzle (with the hose off).
But I looked last night at my set up and found nothing that looked like a check valve! My hose comes directly from my washer motor to a t-piece the leg of the t going directly to the nozzle and other side going to the other nozzle (via an elbow).
The problems I get are the hose being crushed by the bonnet hinge, but otherwise I just use compressed air to clean the nozzle (with the hose off).
The check valve is there to keep fluid up to the nozzle so you get something quickly when you hit the washers. Not a bad thing to have, but by no means absolutely necessary.
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
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