When I ordered my regulator, I also got the factory rivets for a couple of bucks. The factory rivets are steel, not aluminum. I could not pull the pin through the rivet with my manual rivet gun. I ended up using some 3/16" rivets with a 1/2" head that I had for another project. They were also good for 1/2" depth. From memory, 1/4" depth would work also. If you a pneumatic rivet gun, this would help with the steel rivets. I got one from Harbor Freight and it pulls in rivets really tight and clean.
I really appreciate the responses. Tried a couple of days ago on another board and haven't gotten one yet.
When I bought the Sears heavy-duty riveter, I also purchased two packs of aluminum rivets - 1/4" and 3/8" Seemed like it would be one of those, but I was really wanting to make sure before I got the door dismantled. And I'm pleased to be reassured that the softer aluminum rivets will probably work just fine.
Well, I did the job yesterday. I found that a previous repair entailed screwing a short length of 2X4 up inside there to hold the window up. I sure hope I don't find anymore cheap-shot repairs on this beautiful car like that one. I'm suprised that I didn't find the non-functioning window from the start. All's well now.
There are 4 rivets, not 3 as I have found in some discussions. I used 3/16 X 1/4 inch aluminum rivets and am completely confident that they will hold the regulator securely. I had a gorilla on hand to do the riveting, but didn't really need his extra strength.
When I replaced a regulator, I used the steel rivets from my MB parts source. Used a heavy duty Craftsmen rivet gun and it was all I could do to pull those steel rivets. I am guess the aluminum ones are much much easier.
As for holding up the window, I used a plastic wedge between the glass and inside frame (worked well). The dealer can sell you two sizes which I think are referred to large and small. Here are the part numbers and prices I paid. They have come in handy many times.
The aluminum rivets are no doubt easier to install. And, I used two pieces of wide masking tape - taped to both sides of the window glass across the top of the window frame to hold the window up when I was replacing the regulator.
The wood block I was mentioning was someone's cheapskate fix to hold the window up without having to actually replace the regulator and was done sometime before I bought the car (about a month ago).
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