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1983 380SL, 2000 S430, 1991 420SEL (retired) - RHD
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I was thinking that without the aft slider bushing that the window is crooked when being pushed up, so that the glass isn’t square inside the two channels.. I’ve only just discovered that the slider was a problem and I want to see if fixing that puts less strain on the motor before I replace what is probably a good motor.
I recall the window rails are curved to allow for the curve in the glass. The block should guide it up the rail in the correct position. The glass is adjustable in all directions and may be out of adjustment thus hindering a smooth movement.The rails are partly adjustable. Adjusting the glass can be a real PITA........up, check,down, adjust, up again ....
If the slider is missing you may also get scratches on the glass as well as a rattle.
 

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'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
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I've already done the visor clips - they were a pain because of the compound angles. The files can be downloaded from 107resources.org.

Andy
Thanks!
 

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1987 560SL, 2000 Kawasaki W650
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If the slider is missing you may also get scratches on the glass as well as a rattle.
The slider was in there but loose. It’s not there since I‘ve tried to “fix“ it, it’s now three pieces.

Just go an email from the Classic Center. Part 107 725 04 34 is $22. I’ve seen it for around that price at various dealerships via Google, some slightly cheaper but the shipping they want to charge is a bit much, almost as much as the part price. I emailed the parts department at my local dealership in Eugene, they should get back to me when they’re open tomorrow.
 

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1983 380SL, 2000 S430, 1991 420SEL (retired) - RHD
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5,639 Posts
The slider was in there but loose. It’s not there since I‘ve tried to “fix“ it, it’s now three pieces.

Just go an email from the Classic Center. Part 107 725 04 34 is $22. I’ve seen it for around that price at various dealerships via Google, some slightly cheaper but the shipping they want to charge is a bit much, almost as much as the part price. I emailed the parts department at my local dealership in Eugene, they should get back to me when they’re open tomorrow.
Yeah, they are heavy little buggers. Be aware they are left or right- ie not the same each side. Sorry if I'm teaching you to suck eggs!
 

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1987 560SL, 2000 Kawasaki W650
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There is a second guide part that is fixed to the top of the aft guide rail, held in place with a set screw. That is the part I need, and the number on that is A 107 725 01 34.

2639847


Just for clarification:

A 107 725 04 34 is the black plastic U-shaped part, to the right of the metal part that it goes into, that's fixed to the window. Mine has a thin strip of rubber surrounding it.

A 107 725 01 34 is the white plastic part, bottom, that is fixed to the rear window guide channel on the upper end. They are different in size and not interchangeable.

Yeah, they are heavy little buggers. Be aware they are left or right- ie not the same each side. Sorry if I'm teaching you to suck eggs!
Is that Australian RHD left or right or US LHD left or right?
 

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1983 380SL, 2000 S430, 1991 420SEL (retired) - RHD
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5,639 Posts
There is a second guide part that is fixed to the top of the aft guide rail, held in place with a set screw. That is the part I need, and the number on that is A 107 725 01 34.

View attachment 2639847

Just for clarification:

A 107 725 04 34 is the black plastic U-shaped part, to the right of the metal part that it goes into, that's fixed to the window. Mine has a thin strip of rubber surrounding it.

A 107 725 01 34 is the white plastic part, bottom, that is fixed to the rear window guide channel on the upper end. They are different in size and not interchangeable.



Is that Australian RHD left or right or US LHD left or right?
Very funny :D Our left hand is still left you bugger!. The left window blocks are different to the right window blocks. They look the same at a glance but they are different.
In your pic the black pieces both go into the block. The thin piece of rubber with the hole first then the one with the nobble.The inserts are all the same even in the long blocks.
The blocks are glued to the glass and originally had a thin piece of fabric full of glue providing a press fit but there are such good glues around these days I'm not certain it's necessary to bother with the fabric.I've had good results with E6000 and it doesn't need clamping but takes a long time to cure. It comes in clear as well so doesn't look messy.
You can see the position of the blocks usually by marks on the glass but I've attached a pic.
I hope you don't have to stand on your head to look at it :D
 

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1976 450 SLC
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143 Posts
I don't believe any of the plastic guides are held in by the small adjusting grub screw. I seem to recall that the small dimple on the side of each plastic guide (visible in the photos above) fits a hole in the back guide rail (top) or the two metal guide blocks glued to the glass, per window. The four adjustment grub screws seem to be an interference fit and the adjustment procedure for each is covered in the manual.

I have used E6000 with success, along with a felt packer between the glass and metal guide block.
 

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1987 560SL, 2000 Kawasaki W650
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My copies of the manual only have instructions for the crank window, but I'll assume it applies to the powered window as far as similar basic position and movement adjustments.

You are correct in that the plastic part is held in place by the cylindrical pin (or nobble or dimple).* However, from Section 72 p. 195/4, this cross-section of the window guide shoe shows the "threaded pin," which I call a set screw and you call a grub screw,* allows adjustment of how tightly the plastic guide piece (15) holds the window assembly as the metal guide shoe moves up and down within the channel. That would be the black part A 107 725 04 34.

The white guide piece A 107 725 04 14 is attached to the window guide rail at the top with a screw to adjust compression. If you remove the inner window scraper you can see it from above and there is a hole in the inside door metal to reach it with a screwdriver. Apparently mine had either worn down or snapped so that the glass was loose at the top of the guide rail which is what was causing the window to rattle. Fortunately it only rattles when I slam the door or it would have driven me crazier than I am. I could probably MacGyver it to work but I've got a call into my local dealer, if I can get a new one it'll probably last longer than I will.

*Potato, potahto, let's call the whole thing off."


2639935


I found that the metal guide shoe was only loosely fixed to the window, the adhesive having hardened and crumbled in the last 33 years, but the felt insert was enough to keep it from rattling on the lower part of the window.

I'm going to make a guess and suggest that one of the other MB models, (perhaps the 126?) has instructions for the powered window, but it seems to be fairly easy to translate the crank window instructions to deal with the powered window.
 

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1976 450 SLC
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They are referred to as both "threaded pins" and "threaded studs" in the manual. To me they are what I would call a small grub screw. The instructions for adjustment start immediately below the extract you posted above from section 72-195 (pages 4 and 5) in the manual. It calls for the "threaded studs" to be screwed completely down, then screwed back approx ¾ or 1 turn depending upon whether adjusting the front or rear slide pieces.
I took the view that whether the window glass movement power was by hand or motor, the adjustment of the slide pieces would be the same.
 

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1987 560SL, 2000 Kawasaki W650
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Trolling through various prior threads on this subject, several types of flexible adhesives recommended for fastening the guide shoe to the window pane: E6000, Flexset, Dow Corning 795, Permatex black stuff. Flexset seems to be the most highly recommended and E6000 the lowest cost.

One poster recommended adding a shim of thin aluminum around the felt for a tighter fit.

As I’m always interested in finding new stuff to experiment with, 3M Marine Adhesive 5200 seems to have similar properties to those listed above. I’ll let you know how it works.
 

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'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
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As I’m always interested in finding new stuff to experiment with, 3M Marine Adhesive 5200 seems to have similar properties to those listed above. I’ll let you know how it works.
As a sailor, I was quite familiar with 3M 5200. I did a test with it before choosing Flexset. It did not adhere nearly as well. I used the Dow 795 on a different application and suggested it might be a good choice. Aussie tried it, I believe, with success. It is used to install glass windows in aluminum frames in high rises and even commercial fish aquariums.

Flexset has stood up well in my car for I don't know how many years now. I did use aluminum shims, but just narrow ones to center the glass. Don't think I used any felt.

By the way, I have used 3M 5200 as coating on rear axle CV boots that had started to crack. It sticks well and remains flexible. Been on my 300D boots for 3 or more years now and holding up well!
 

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1983 380SL, 2000 S430, 1991 420SEL (retired) - RHD
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As a sailor, I was quite familiar with 3M 5200. I did a test with it before choosing Flexset. It did not adhere nearly as well. I used the Dow 795 on a different application and suggested it might be a good choice. Aussie tried it, I believe, with success. It is used to install glass windows in aluminum frames in high rises and even commercial fish aquariums.

Flexset has stood up well in my car for I don't know how many years now. I did use aluminum shims, but just narrow ones to center the glass. Don't think I used any felt.

By the way, I have used 3M 5200 as coating on rear axle CV boots that had started to crack. It sticks well and remains flexible. Been on my 300D boots for 3 or more years now and holding up well!
I did use Dow 795, but I think E6000 is probably just as good having used it on a glass table top to aluminum legs with success. Mind you, the table top is stationary!
 

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'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
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I did use Dow 795, but I think E6000 is probably just as good having used it on a glass table top to aluminum legs with success. Mind you, the table top is stationary!
One thing the adhesive needs to do, is fill the gap between the glass and the aluminum. We also need something that adheres strongly to metal and glass, retains flexibility and is able to tolerate the vibration and other stresses in the window application. We need more than just good surface to surface adhesion. I tried to simulate these requirements when I tested three products (Flexset, 5200 and one other?)

I hope not to have to do this job again, but if I do, I will probably use FlexSet again because it has worked for me. It is also readily available in small quantities.
I imagine one of the JBWeld products might be close to equivalent.
Dow 795 was only available here in cases of 12 cartridges! I did buy one cartridge while in USA when I re-adhered my boat windows. Worked really well there, but windows were Plexiglass. Dow says it works well for glass too, but I did not try that.

Interesting though to hear reports from owners that have done tests using other products.
 

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1987 560SL, 2000 Kawasaki W650
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As a sailor, I was quite familiar with 3M 5200. I did a test with it before choosing Flexset. It did not adhere nearly as well. I used the Dow 795 on a different application and suggested it might be a good choice. Aussie tried it, I believe, with success. It is used to install glass windows in aluminum frames in high rises and even commercial fish aquariums.

Flexset has stood up well in my car for I don't know how many years now. I did use aluminum shims, but just narrow ones to center the glass. Don't think I used any felt.
Ah. Seems the prevailing opinion is go for the Flexset. Thanks for the informed opinion.
 

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1986 560SL with M120 V12 Engine, 1988 560SL Stock
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I glued mine in hard with Aluminum shims and Epoxy. Iv'e had no issues for 10 years.
 

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1987 560SL, 2000 Kawasaki W650
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They are referred to as both "threaded pins" and "threaded studs" in the manual. To me they are what I would call a small grub screw.
The internet constantly amazes me. Seems this is a subject that has previously involved debate about the various languages we all call "English." I have a British English dictionary but I ought to get myself an Australian one too.

.
 

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1983 380SL, 2000 S430, 1991 420SEL (retired) - RHD
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Do you have calipers? Could you make accurate measurements of the part, enough that I could model it?

Andy
See attached drawing of one aspect. Roughly to scale but the measurements are accurate.Is this what you need? if so I'll do the other aspects (side and top)
 

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1974 450SL (US), 2005 SLK200 (UK)
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See attached drawing of one aspect. Roughly to scale but the measurements are accurate.Is this what you need? if so I'll do the other aspects (side and top)
Yes, that is perfect. Very nice drawing BTW. :) Andy
 
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