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New to the site,VERY COOL by theway, but I did notice that some times the driver door window will have a bigger gap befor sealing up, or some times will not come all the way up? Have to close the door a couple of times,:confused: 2002 cl 500 anyone know if it is adjustable from the inside? Thanks.
 

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2001 cl500 window fault

when i put down my driver window, the rear window drops as it should but does not match back up when the driver window is closed--also when i open door and close it the driver window goes up but the rear does not--i have to hold the lock button on the remote for several seconds for the rear window to seal up---i have been told battery could be low so i replaced it --still faulty--i have also tried ressetting windows by holding button up for several seconds

please help
 

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2001 cl500 window fault

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when i put down my driver window, the rear window drops as it should but does not match back up when the driver window is closed--also when i open door and close it the driver window goes up but the rear does not--i have to hold the lock button on the remote for several seconds for the rear window to seal up---i have been told battery could be low so i replaced it --still faulty--i have also tried ressetting windows by holding button up for several seconds

please help
 

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2006 CL-55 AMG (1 of 182 made for USA) and 2010 GLk350 AWD Barolo Red
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same problem you have with windows

:crybaby2: Last month when I purchased the car eveything was fine. After opening the door within a week, I noticed that the drivers window was slowly loosing that soft opening window and the rear was slowly deteriorating also to the point the rear would not come all the way up to close with the drivers window. Now both don't soft open or close. The window up and down work on both driver an rear. The door soft close pull in is working properly. I did try to set the memory of the windows but didn't work. Anyone had this problem? or found the fix for it. No it is not a low battery problem, the passenger side works fine. Would like to think this is not a rare problem and many have seen this.
 

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2000 CL 500
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:crybaby2: Last month when I purchased the car eveything was fine. After opening the door within a week, I noticed that the drivers window was slowly loosing that soft opening window and the rear was slowly deteriorating also to the point the rear would not come all the way up to close with the drivers window. Now both don't soft open or close. The window up and down work on both driver an rear. The door soft close pull in is working properly. I did try to set the memory of the windows but didn't work. Anyone had this problem? or found the fix for it. No it is not a low battery problem, the passenger side works fine. Would like to think this is not a rare problem and many have seen this.

Window regulator....pricey parts if that is the case. Take it to a tech and get it diagnosed my friend.

2000-2006 Mercedes CL500 Window Regulator - Body Mechanical & Trim - OES Genuine, Rear Right 00-06 CL500 Window Regulator - PartsGeek
 

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2006 CL-55 AMG (1 of 182 made for USA) and 2010 GLk350 AWD Barolo Red
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Don't think it's window regulator

The window pop down and pop up controls both the rear quarter and drivers side. Two different regulators, but must get a pulse to operate. It knows that when you open from the outside it must go down and close the door it must go up, and visa versa from the inside. I'm feeling a control electrical problem here?
 

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2006 CL-55 AMG (1 of 182 made for USA) and 2010 GLk350 AWD Barolo Red
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Window problem FIXED

You must reset the control modules. Disconnect the positive lead from the battery for about a half hour, I did it for about 1 hour, do not close the trunk! Reconnect the battery. Do the window down and hold for 10sec. driver and rear, Than up and hold for 10 sec. This sets the window stop position. Mine worked fine after this.
 

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I give up!

There must be a problem in the computer that controls this function. After a while of using it the window functions started to degrade and not work in sequence properly and than just start to not work. Anyone know what module controls this?
 

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2006 CL-55 AMG (1 of 182 made for USA) and 2010 GLk350 AWD Barolo Red
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Along with the malfunctioning window pulse opening, if I have the drivers window open and I close it with the auto close switch on the door control, the window comes up and closes and then continues to open again for 2 inches. There may be a end micro switch that is not operating properly? If the window doesn't know it is in the closed position than the computer control for the window can't operate properly.
 

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cl500 w215
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a)There is adjustment im looking for, to move front window in and out (in millimeters), but I don't know where is the screw to adjust that...
b)Maybe you have weak motor or bad wires that moves the window.
c)Maybe it's window module - positioned under rear right seat sn: 215 820 23 26 black plastic box. I'm going to buy it tomorrow... It put's in "memory" positions of windows (my rear is falling down in steps, when I open the doors and isn't going up anymore)

If you find adjustment for a) let me know where is the screw :) I need to adjust it too
 

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window going down

a)There is adjustment im looking for, to move front window in and out (in millimeters), but I don't know where is the screw to adjust that...
b)Maybe you have weak motor or bad wires that moves the window.
c)Maybe it's window module - positioned under rear right seat sn: 215 820 23 26 black plastic box. I'm going to buy it tomorrow... It put's in "memory" positions of windows (my rear is falling down in steps, when I open the doors and isn't going up anymore)

If you find adjustment for a) let me know where is the screw I need to adjust it too


I also have the same problem...i was told that the module needs to be energized from the dealer....even if you replaced the module it still need to be energized..sucks tho...i hope that there are other ways to energize the module without taking it to the dealer...

i just popped the back panel out and remove the window motor and yank the window manually ...tried by-passing(re wiring) the window motor to no luck....

when spring comes and nobody on this board(forum) finds a solution..then i'm taking it to the dealer as a last resort.. my .02cents
 

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cl500 w215
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No, I bought another module and it works fine. It's behind co-drivers seat, under rear right seat, behind fuses, under foam, simple to unmount-just 2 + screws.

I don't understand your word "energize".

You can have more problems, that window doesn't work: broken wire, motor, key-button-switch or this module or fuse :)
 

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No, I bought another module and it works fine. It's behind co-drivers seat, under rear right seat, behind fuses, under foam, simple to unmount-just 2 + screws.

I don't understand your word "energize".

You can have more problems, that window doesn't work: broken wire, motor, key-button-switch or this module or fuse :)
I don't understand your word "energize". re energizing the module.. a way of plugging it to maybe a scope or something like it..... but then again its a good news for me to hear someone buying the module and just plug it in and it works....

as we all know...dealers always have their own diff. schemes in luring us guys to bring our cars to them instead of taking it to private shops...its all business....
 

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2006 CL-55 AMG (1 of 182 made for USA) and 2010 GLk350 AWD Barolo Red
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Got the soft close window problem fixed!

I added this for those who have this lagging window closing problem.
The problem was two broken wires in the door to body wiring. This is a problem due to the large flexing of the door opening. Cost $380 to have this problem fixed. Don't replace any parts untill you have the wiring checked.
 

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2001 CLK430, 2000 CL500 both silver with black interior. 2005 C230Kompressor Sport Red with Blk Int
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The problem was two broken wires in the door to body wiring. This is a problem due to the large flexing of the door opening. Cost $380 to have this problem fixed. Don't replace any parts untill you have the wiring checked.
$380?! :eek: My advice would be "Dont replace any parts until you have the wiring checked AND DONT PAY $380 to fix the wiring!"

I mean damn, $380?! I fixed my broken wires for between $0.50 and $1, somewhere in that price range give or take a nickel. A little bit of wire, a razor blade, and a roll of electrical tape! Its not hard to do, just cut open that rubber cover, find the brittle broken wires, splice in a piece of your own wire and tape it up! If anybody doesnt feel like doing that, just bring your car to me and I will give you the 50% off special, that will be $190! :D
 

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I concur with the poster. You could and me being an electrician could have done it myself, hell I dianosed the problem, BUT there is no way I am going to be slicing up the 100K car and tapeing up parts with electrical tape . What do you think you are driving, a honda civic. Wait till you sell your car and someone sees that mess. But to each there own. I still have a pristine car! The proper way was done. Remove the door panel and pull new wires.
 

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My old 01 600 had problems in that flex area, and the previous owner did an extra lousy job soldering everything together. Took me months to finally figure out where the problem was. You can pull the rubber flex boot back without having to cut it open. Splicing is a common and legitimate repair, and if done well you won't be able to tell the difference. Instead of electrical tape, you should use heat shrink tubing (or at least self-fusing silicone tape). Instead of just twisting the broken ends together, they should be soldered.
 
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