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Discussion Starter #1
I'm refreshing all the door stuff on my 416 Doka and realized the window felt (channel) is a bit weak. So I checked with a dealer and the price MB wants is like $65.00 / meter. I haven't measured but I would think that I would need at least 8 meters to do a 4 door. That is just ridiculous.

Has anyone come up with a domestic alternative that works well? What holds it in there btw?
 

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1975 404 Doka Unimog
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327 Posts
Mine needs doing too. It's expensive stuff. I've seen after-market seals at motor shows and swap meets and while a multi-fit product may be a few dollars cheaper, in the long run I feel I'd be happier with a genuine product.
Having said that, maybe talk to a hotrod club. I have a few mates who are into hotrods and they can be a wealth of information and usually they use high grade components, particularly the competitive hodrodders.
Hope this helps.
 

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1987 416 Doka
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653 Posts
I had to change some felt and window track on my boat years ago and found that JC Whitney carried the identical type Viking used on the boat originally. I was even able to get JC W to send me short samples of the potential ones so I bought the right thing the first time. When I get there with my mog, I was planning to repeat this process.

Worth a shot...
 

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85' U1300L Holset Turbo VA A/C, 66' Propane 404.1 rock mog, 1975 416 Doka, G500, Volvo C303
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5,020 Posts
I replaced my window seals with these from Eurotruck. Pre-cut and ready to install. Worked perfectly for me.

I would assume he is talking about the felt channel the window rides in.
 

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Unimog Moderator
250GD Wolf
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13,180 Posts
I know the OEM stuff is pricey, $65/meter seems like a lot. But. The OEM factory stuff has been on your truck for how long? Divide the cost by the years its (hopefully) faithfully kept the elements out, and over that time span, really, the cost is negligible. At least that's how I justify the cost of certain items to myself :p

I like the adage:

If you can't afford to do it right the first time, when will you be able to afford to do it over again?

I also like:

You wanna play, you gotta pay ;)

Spend the bux, enjoy the truck for another 25+ years :)

All that being said, if you can find the OEM stuff for cheaper, or a better replacement, such as Sean @ Eurotruck and Von and others have done with many items, by all means!
 

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1970 406 Unimog with 9'2" Boss V-Plow....... 1974 404 Unimog Rock Crawler
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874 Posts
I would assume he is talking about the felt channel the window rides in.
Yeah, no doubt you ass-u-me correctly!:thumbsup:

Actually I replaced both side windows, window seals and window track felts all purchased from Eurotruck. And yes, the felt guides are $65 / meter, and 1.4 meters is required for each door.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
The Benz stuff may be made better than the domestic stuff. Idk.

There is a Chevy resto place locally and they have this. SS sounds nice. I just finished getting all new SS bolts and screws for the doors so they don't rust again. Division Bar-Classic Parts

I keep forgetting to measure what is in the 416 to see if something like this would transplant. Also I found a company that sells felt for old VWs which might work too and it's a lot cheaper.

The rear doors are the same size.

I know it's not the end of the world but $400+ for felt just seems like robbery.

You are right that I would probably never have to replace it again. It's a 73 cab.

I need to coat the bottoms of the doors inside with some kind of rust proofing. There used to be companies that sprayed the insides of your doors and panels but I don't think they are around anymore. They sprayed some kind of wax like substance in there.

I bought some of those external seals as well. They aren't giving those away either :eek:
 

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Unimog Moderator
250GD Wolf
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There's a few company's that still do the wax rust proofing up here.

Contact Tectyl and see if there is a dealer in your area, that's the stuff they put on from the factory, VERY good stuff

Option order code Z68:

Z68 Preservation for ocean shipment (Tectyl coating) Protective wax coating

It's still used, its on the U20's Option order sheet as well:

Add. Paint key 2 = 52
painting of chassis, axles, rims, bumpers,
(without mudguards – mudguards in
black). Metal paint not possible;
obligatory: Y67=administration 2.
paintwork; Verify necessity of Y64
undercoat ing tectyl
instead of dinitrol) –
basic execution includes undercoating
dinitrol, which gives a blackish tint)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for the leads on the undercoating/internal coating. I'll see what I come up with.

I measured the rear door that is apart yesterday and came up with basically 2.5 meters for one door with a few extra cm. So that's (obviously ;))10 meters or $650 plus for felt for my truck if I go that route. Better be damn good stuff.
 

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Hi megamog could you please clarify how to fit 1.4 m of window seal into my 406 doors .I have just received them from eurotruck and they look way too short.thanks David ,Brisbane Australia
 

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1970 406 Unimog with 9'2" Boss V-Plow....... 1974 404 Unimog Rock Crawler
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874 Posts
Hi megamog could you please clarify how to fit 1.4 m of window seal into my 406 doors .I have just received them from eurotruck and they look way too short.thanks David ,Brisbane Australia
Daklek, the 1.4 meters refers to the Window Felt which seals the glass window to the door itself, not the "Door Glass Seal". The terminology is unfortunate as the Door Glass Seal has nothing to do with the glass window, but rather it's the rubber seal (not felt) which goes around the door frame and seals the door itself the the cab body. Each door requires 2.5 meters (approximately) of Door Glass Seal.

Hope this helps!
 

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1986 Unimog U1700L (435 series)
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361 Posts
Hello, Can someone advise how to install new felt strips in the runner guides? Took a bit of effort to pull them out, so going to be hard to get them back in below the window sill level (inside the door cavity). Some guides suggest its necessary to take the glass out first? I'm hoping I don't need to do that?
 

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1991 1250L Doka Unimog, 2002 ML320
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I let the window pull them down as rolled the window down. Need to mark final desired position before starting as it is tough to pull them back up. I pushed from on top/window opening and rolled down while feeding strips. This is all if you are doing the roll up windows.
Chas
 
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