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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
TLDNR: What is the socket or nut-driver used to adjust the window?
Background:
I found the youtube link in another thread [ #post-5625821 ] explaining how to remove the exterior rubber panel, remove the rubber caps, then loosen the 13mm nuts.
10 seconds later 1:14, mechanic swaps-out the 13mm driver and uses a thinner driver to make an adjustment that I cannot comprehend.
What is the tool/driver for this adjustment and where or what is the mechanic attaching too? (please do not tell me it's the threaded bolt; inconceivable! :)
10 seconds after this 2nd action, mech's retightening the 13mm nut.

History: (This 300SL is a new acquisition and how I received it, so unfamiliar with window/door-issue history/progression)
Window does not function (It is in the fully raised position but no movement whatsoever)
I hear a relay switch in the trunk engage. I also hear a relay IN the door panel but no MOTOR HUM

But my MOST pressing concern is the window orientation. Currently, the only way to close the door is by pulling-it from inside the car.
From the outside, I can only "catch" door onto the latch but not a complete close. (To do so, I would need to SLAMMMMM it and risk breaking the window as top right corner overlaps the chrome (2nd image below)
TIA for any guidance.
There is some parallax in this first image. The door is "latched" and ~1/2" from being fully closed while the window is already hitting the chrome.
2625429


This second image provides a better angle to see the disparity and overlap in the upper right hand corner.
2625430
 

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One of the BW Old Guard/R129, W204 Moderator
1997 SL500- 40th Anniversary
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Door hinges ok? Maybe worn bushings/pins contributing to issue. Can you lift door up/down when partially open?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Door hinges ok? Maybe worn bushings/pins contributing to issue? ...
Door hardware et al "seems" surpisingly tight.
The wrinkle is the window (fully UP atm) does NOT function; go up, nor down. (as prev mentioned, I DO HEAR relay activate inside door panel but no motor hum)

This could be related. Eg: Window orientation/misalignment led to burning-out the motor or under the current best-case scenario, motor is only jammed.

My inquiry was to discover a fix that prevented having to remove the interior door-panel to readjust the window.
 

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Departed 1998 SL500 (and the Pano is in Bogota)
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You NEED to remove the interior door panel to access some of the adjustment screws.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Not what I wanted to read but thx for the confirmation.
That video led me to imagine - almost polyanna'ish - I'd be able to make the tweaks from the exterior.
 

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Departed 1998 SL500 (and the Pano is in Bogota)
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2 of the screws accessible by removing the exterior cladding is for adjusting the tilt of the top of the glass inward or outwards.
To adjust for 'rotation' you need to do it from inside.

This is something I collected over the years,
Credit goes to Bayhas.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
2 of the screws accessible by removing the exterior cladding is for adjusting the tilt of the top of the glass inward or outwards.
To adjust for 'rotation' you need to do it from inside. This is something I collected over the years, Credit Bayhas.
Thx RKH (and Bayhas, whom you acknowledged) for the "artwork". (I had stumbled into that prior to my initial post)

Tilt IS the issue with regard to closing. Top of right corner window is hitting/making contact well-before door is making contact with latch.
Very possible window unglued/slipped or otherwise detached (making the TILT adjustment moot. I 've read that here or somewhere)
Between that and the motor, seems door interior removal will be required.

Attached are the two other PDF files I stumbled into (along with the Bayhas artwork) that involve the door/window adjustment.
 

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