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1983 380SL, ivory/dk brown, 46k miles, dual roller timing chain. 1986 560SL, red/white, 190K mile.
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Why Mercedes Are Money Pit Machines:

He makes some good points - not so much about our R107s but mostly about the 1990 and later models.
I did not know about that issue with Brake Pads.

 

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I turned my first brake rotor on an Aamco brake lathe sometime in the fall of 1976. First thing I was taught was how safely cut the lip prior to setting the bits for the surface cut.


In other words, S.O.P.



Dude's too full of himself.
 

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1984 380SL
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Meh, he's just listing out all of the reasons I do my own car repair. $160/hr is a joke, especially since I enjoy doing it!

I doubt it really takes 2.3 hours to replace a computer. The whole concept of "shop" hours really cracks me up. How much we want to bet that those numbers are just gross estimates of a recently certified tech who isn't familiar with what needs to be removed?
 

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450slc5.0cab 280sl5sp 280se4.5 500seAMG +250seStkW108 350sl4spdX3 500secEuro 300sel5spd R+C107galore
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After owning an r129 and an r107, mostly for reasons similar to what Scotty Kilmer goes over in this video, I choose the r107. It's a tough choice with r129 possessing few of the critical flaws we find in our R107's like my rust free r129 vs every r/c107 having some rust to deal with. I just feel like the r129 are time bombs with all kinds of systems waiting to fail, like the hydraulic top seals, or wiring / electronic issues. I had one of the simplest, a 1992 500sl that was the fastest car I've ever owned and a blast to drive hard. But man, was I ever happy to get rid of it. I would assume this logic applies to all MB. More features. More problems.

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'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
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Dude's too full of himself.
He is!

Re the lip on the rotors. If rotors are relatively smooth and within thickness spec, no problem putting new pads on old rotors. They won't touch the lip anyway. But if there is a significant lip, rotors are probably done anyway. There is sometimes rust on the outer edge - I have just removed that with a coarse emery paper. Just flakes off.

Our 98 E320 is one of the earliest computerized Benzes. Had it for 16 years and 120k miles. Very few problems that only a Benz would have had. No computer problems.

What the guy says does make some sense, but it applies to most modern cars. Not just Benzes. And even here in Canada, our shops don't charge $160/hr. In late 2016 it was C$120/hr (US$90/hr)

We bought an extended warranty with our 2014 GLK. I also eliminated all the frills like sunroof, back up cameras, nav system etc all of which can go wrong and costs $$$; yet have nothing to do with getting you from a to b.

If there is a next time, we will do same again or lease. I don't want to be exposed to the high cost of maintaining these modern cars.

What I love about our OLD Benzes, is that they are simple, simple to repair and there are reasonably priced aftermarket parts available.
 

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'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
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Honest question, couldn't any well equipped shop machine down the lips on the rotors so they're smooth?
I can't find the source, but I recall that some Mercedes shops had a special tool for doing just that. I had the lips ground off once by an independent shop when I was away from home and was getting vibration. Pads were catching on rust on lip. I think they started car up on hoist and used a hand grinder.

In the chassis shop manual, they show a method for cleaning rotors using abrasive pads. These pads overlap the lip and would probably not remove any significant lip. https://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/12265/disc_2/program/Chassis/42-260.pdf

Used rotors are often glazed and need surface treatment anyway before installing new pads. If that meant getting them machined, I just bought new rotors for front so as to not waste time getting job done. Rears, I just sanded a bit. They don't do much anyway!
 

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86 560SL
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I have yet to see a design where the brake pad extends past edge of the rotor.

As far as electronics used in cars that will apply to all newer cars., just luxury high end cars have more of it. Eventually things will break. The real problem is that some of the ASICs (application specific integrates circuits) and microprocessors eventually will be out of production hence the modules these parts are used in, will no longer be available.

So the future of collector cars will be interesting.
 

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1986 560SL: '84 500SL: '84 280SL 5 speed: other 107s ALL SOLD
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This is at least least the second time this video has been posted and discussed. I am with Graham. Not only an MB problem. The more bells and whistles on any make the more to go wrong.
 

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He is!

What the guy says does make some sense, but it applies to most modern cars. Not just Benzes. And even here in Canada, our shops don't charge $160/hr. In late 2016 it was C$120/hr (US$90/hr)
The hourly shop charges differ with the area you're in. Here in the San Francisco Bay Area, most Mercedes dealers charge between $175 and $200/hr labor. Independent mechanics, charge anywhere from $120-$150 depending on their skill, specialization, and mostly location. You can go to an independent in San Francisco, Burlingame or Belmont and likely pay $160+, or go across the bay in Oakland, Hayward or San Leandro and pay less than $120 for the same work.

As they say, Location, location, location...

We bought an extended warranty with our 2014 GLK. I also eliminated all the frills like sunroof, back up cameras, nav system etc all of which can go wrong and costs $$$; yet have nothing to do with getting you from a to b.
What's the point of stripped down Benz?? If that's what you wanted, why not get a Rav4?

Besides, the really expensive parts in the GLK will not be the sunroof or the entertainment system (although they can cost a few bucks to fix), it's all the other stuff like the EIS, ABS, BAS, ESP, ECU, sensors and such. All those systems are standard in the GLK, and when they start to go, they cost serious money.
 

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What's the point of stripped down Benz?? If that's what you wanted, why not get a Rav4?
That is a really dumb statement dude.

What model of 107 do you own?

Couple of clicks and problem solved ;)
 

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It's a non-issue Adam. Brake rotors have unswept surface area both near the circumference and at the center. ANY brake lathe can, and must be, set to cut said lip first. That he thinks it is some sort of performance or design fail is idiocy.
I was gonna say. This guy comes off as a try hard first and foremost with all of the shouting. I can generally forgive stuff like that but what I don't care for in the video especially are embellishments from auto mechanics which is what this guy is doing.

I've called out mechanics in person before when they've offered bad advice. Automotive technology isn't complicated and after seeing some many half assed repairs done by "professional" shops in the past it irks me to the moon when I hear it given.

His entire channel and other video advice is suspect given what I've seen here. People like him are the reason I got into wrenching.
 

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Current: '07 SL550, '06 ML350 - Past: '99 ML320 (Sold), '98 SLK230 (Wrecked), 05 SL500 (Wrecked)
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That is a really dumb statement dude.

What model of 107 do you own?
First let me preface with I don't own a 107, I own a R230, so when it comes to expensive, and expensive to fix bells and whistles, I think I've got it covered, and I've felt the pain.

Second, what exactly do you you find dumb about that statement? That statement was in regard to the comment about buying a GLK without some of the more desirable options:

"We bought an extended warranty with our 2014 GLK. I also eliminated all the frills like sunroof, back up cameras, nav system etc all of which can go wrong and costs $$$; yet have nothing to do with getting you from a to b. "

If you go and buy a luxury SUV like the GLK, you buy it because it has all these wonderful options. Stripping it down is like buying a chocolate cake and asking them to hold the chocolate and frosting.

If on the other hand you just want a car to "get you from a to b", you're better of buying a Toyota or a Honda.
 

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He is a fool.
Every car I have ever seen has brake pads that stop short of the edge.As the rotors wear they leave a lip,so what? It does not cause a problem.
Recessed lug bolts,who cares? Nothing goes wrong with them.
Low profile tyres are not exclusive to MB.
Every expensive car depreciates,,,so I let someone else own it first.
I do my own work and find the parts very reasonably priced.
Never had a major problem with my MBs ,and they are without a doubt the best cars on the road.
This guy thinks he knows better than teams of experienced German engineers...I doubt it.
 

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1983 380SL, ivory/dk brown, 46k miles, dual roller timing chain. 1986 560SL, red/white, 190K mile.
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
He is a fool.
Every car I have ever seen has brake pads that stop short of the edge.As the rotors wear they leave a lip,so what? It does not cause a problem.
Recessed lug bolts,who cares? Nothing goes wrong with them.
Low profile tyres are not exclusive to MB.
Every expensive car depreciates,,,so I let someone else own it first.
I do my own work and find the parts very reasonably priced.
Never had a major problem with my MBs ,and they are without a doubt the best cars on the road.
This guy thinks he knows better than teams of experienced German engineers...I doubt it.
Best way to purchase a Mercedes is to purchase a used one - AFTER you have done some research. Even with the R107 model we have witnessed the infamous single row timing chain, weak Sub Frames, and crazy idiot designed Climate Control. With the R129 we have witnessed 1993-1995 wiring where the insulation deteriorates causing electrical problems.

Every car has problems and proud as Mercedes is of their Engineering and the way they Market that perception in the Consumers Mind, it has put out some turd Engineering designs.
 
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Cheaper to buy Mintex discs . And replace them along with pads . Or replace any other new discs if it comes to that .Grinding them is not worth it in the end . As for the lip , spin the disc and use a file to get the lip down .
 

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1983 380SL, ivory/dk brown, 46k miles, dual roller timing chain. 1986 560SL, red/white, 190K mile.
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Cheaper to buy Mintex discs . And replace them along with pads . Or replace any other new discs if it comes to that .Grinding them is not worth it in the end . As for the lip , spin the disc and use a file to get the lip down .
Ditto with CV axle split boots ... a lot of Mechanics believe that its less costly to replace the whole axle than to take the axle apart and replace the rubber boot. Personally I have had success installing the rubber cam shell boot that you glue together.
 

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'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
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As for the lip , spin the disc and use a file to get the lip down .
Problem for owner, is how to do that. Rotors would have to be removed and put in lathe or grinding machine. When on car, only one side of rotor is accessible and only two wheels are driven. There is a youtube video (3 parts)showing how one guy did this by installing rotors backwards so both edges could be accessed and using one driven wheel to spin. Not sure if that could be done on our cars. Also not so easy to remove rotors on our old benzes. A lot easier on modern cars.

 
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