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Discussion Starter #1
intlautoparts.com lists two oil filters for my '55. One is a paper filter made by Hengst (A6002-105626) for $10.75, and the other is a fleece filter made by Mann (A6002-132856) for $16.83. Which filter is the right one for my use? Looks like all the AMG V8 engines use the same filter. Also, they don't show any parts for the SLK350, but the ML350 uses the same filters, so assuming the SLK350 filter is the same as the ML350, it would appear that both SLK engines use the same filter. How do these prices compare with purchasing at the dealer? Should I be concerned with not buying the filters at the dealer? Thanks.
 

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'14 CLS63 AMG S, '10 GLK350, '03 SL5000
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Everyone: Fleece (Photos) - Still Some Questions

Has to be the Fleece one, MB Part # A 000 180 26 09. This is listed for both the 55 (Engine 113) and the 350 (Engine 275.)

My 55's "Factory Approved Service Products Sept 2004" booklet clearly states on page 4, "229.5 engine oils must be used with fleece oil filter (p. 11)." Page 10 shows that 229.5 is the oil all SLKs should use and includes Mobil 1 European Car Formula 0W-40. So the answer is "FLEECE."

Here is are 2 photos. The 1st is of 3 filters and a box. The white filter in the middle is the correct fleece filter and the box is for it. The filter on the left is the paper filter that somewhere I have seen listed as an alternative (Part # A 000 180 28 09) but as you can see, it is smaller than the fleece one, so I am not sure if that is really correct.

FYI -- the filter on the right is for my 4.4 Liter V8 in my BMW 740i. Doesn't it seem strange that the MB filters are so much smaller?

When I had my 55 in for it's 1st checkup and oil change in early March, the dealer apparently did not have the fleece filter and in fact, several dealers told me that it was not available at that time. So they installed the paper one shown on the left. At least that is what they told me and the part number for the paper one (28 09 vs 26 09) shows up on the invoice. The dealer said that the paper one was OK and provided adequate flow rate, but did not filter as well as the fleece one.

Since then, I have been able to buy the fleece one and plan to change the filter with a fleece one for sure after this weekend when I'll be on the track in Las Vegas with the BMW Club.

The 2nd photo is a close up of the correct filter and it's box.

Note that the concern is not only with the ability of the filter to filter, but also with it's ability to provide adequate flow rate and not be too restrictive in passing oil to the engine.



 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks, Gordon (as always)...your posts are so thorough that one always has the sense that you have the right answer for sure...I know that more than several of us here appreciate the time that you take. Two more questions...in a separate post Roadsterboy showed a photo of an oil filter wrench that was recommended to him, but I thought someone is a older post mentioned that only a 12mm allen wrench was needed. What do you think? Finally, can you shed any light on the difference between Mobil 1 "European Car Formula" 0w40, and the regular Mobil 1 0w40 I bought at WalMart yesterday? I looked all over Mobil's website and can't find any mention of "European Car Formula", and thought it might just be a marketing gimmick. I did notice that the spec sheet for Mobil 1 0w40 is the same in the U.S. as in Germany...perhaps that's a hint. Thanks.
 

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Yes, 12 mm Allen Wrench, etc.

shark22 - 5/11/2005 7:48 AM

I thought someone is a older post mentioned that only a 12mm allen wrench was needed. ... can you shed any light on the difference between Mobil 1 "European Car Formula" 0w40, and the regular Mobil 1 0w40 I bought at WalMart yesterday?
You are welcome! My pleasure.

Yes, I posted the bit on the 12 mm wrench. I don't know WRT the 350 -- it may be different from the 55, but all one needs with the 55 is a 12 mm Allen wrench. Better yet, cut about an inch off the end of one and use it with a 12 mm socket and torque wrench when you tighten the oil filter cap (25 nt-m as indicated on the cap.)

I got to thinking about the paper filter that might me in my housing and decided to check it and replace it with a fleece filter. But it turns out that it is a fleece filter after all. The 1st photo below shows the removed filter on the cap and assembly tube that comes out with the cap, a new fleece filter, my 12 mm slug, and torque wrench. Because the filter has only about 1K miles on it, I decided not to replace it, but just reinstall it.

I made a not-too-serious attempt to remove the old filter from the extension tube, but found that it really is on there tightly. I did not force the issue and decided to leave it alone for now. It appears that when the cap is tightened, the fleece filter is actually designed to collapse somewhat and that causes the filter to seal very tightly. If you look closely at the old filter, you can see where the filter ribs have twisted slightly as a result of the twisting during tightening.

BTW -- there is an oil drain plug on the 55 as shown in the 2nd photo. It is located on the left side of the oil pan and requires a 13 mm socket. I noted that the green paint mark that I believe was applied at the factory was still undisturbed, indicating that the dealer who changed the oil sucked the oil out of the dipstick tube rather than drained the oil from the pan. I do not think that this is a good idea and I plan to use the drain plug when I change the oil. Actually, I'd like to find a drain plug that has a magnetic insert to collect metal particles.

WRT the oil question -- I do not know if there is a difference. I have been able to find the European Formula at Autozone and WalMart so it has not been an issue for me. You can find a photo of the European Oil Bottle at this URL:

http://home.earthlink.net/~hainesinutah/slkpics/oil/mobil1.jpg



 

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Discussion Starter #6
RE: Yes, 12 mm Allen Wrench, etc.

Thanks again, Gordon, I'll definitely follow all you ideas.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Gordon, I agree with you...I don't see the logic of sucking the oil out when (I assume) you can get a much more thorough draining through the oil pan plug. I like to leave the plug off for a good hour or two and get the most thorough drain possible. I have a boat with an inboard motor and have no choice there but to use the "suck" method, and I've never felt I was getting a thorough oil change. Are there any covers I need to remove to access the drain plug shown in your photo? Given that the drain plug is on the left side of the oil pan, does it appear I would get a more thorough drain by lifting only the right side of the car (versus lifting the entire front of the car), and if I don't lift the left side of the car, how much clearance will there be to slide a drain pan under the plug? (I have a floor jack and I'm planning to use the "trailer ball method" you described in another post.) Finally, does the drain plug have a gasket that needs replacing? Thanks as always.
 

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shark22 - 5/22/2005 11:34 AM

Are there any covers I need to remove to access the drain plug shown in your photo? Given that the drain plug is on the left side of the oil pan, does it appear I would get a more thorough drain by lifting only the right side of the car (versus lifting the entire front of the car), and if I don't lift the left side of the car, how much clearance will there be to slide a drain pan under the plug? Finally, does the drain plug have a gasket that needs replacing? Thanks as always.
Hi, Shark22

Yes, there is a panel under the car that you'll need to remove. My recollection is that all you need is a Phillips screwdriver and/or a 10mm socket. You don't need to remove the large panel that covers the rear of the engine and the transmission -- only the smaller front panel.

If you try to drain the pan with the car tilted, say jacked up on the right side, I believe you risk missing some ot the oil which will drain to the left of the plug and not be removed through the hole. Best if you jack the left side of the car to remove the panel, place the oil pan, revmove the plug and then lower the car to a level position to allow the oil to drain. You can check then by raising the right side to see if you can cause more to drain, but my guess is that this will not really yield any more oil.

The oil filter should come with gaskets set in a plastic bag. I'm sure one of these is intended for the drain plug, but I'm sorry that I am not yet familiar with MB's recommended torque for the drain plug. It should not take much -- the pan is aluminum, so one could over tighten it and strip the threads and destroy the gasket. The torque for an M12 bolt used for a BMW drain plug in a similar aluminum pan is 25Nm (18 lb-ft.), but BMW uses a crushable copper washer rather than a rubber gasket to seal the drain plug.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I finally got around to changing the oil in my ’55 yesterday. I tried the drain (versus suck) method, and I was hoping that I could still achieve a complete drain if I raised the front of the car just enough (about a foot using ramps) to be able to remove the engine bottom cover (a 10mm socket is required) and access the 13mm drain plug (see SLK55er’s post above). I’m not certain, but I’m assuming that I was able to drain only 5 to 5 ½ quarts because the car was not completely level. Next time I’m going to try jacking the car per SLK55er’s post. I replaced the oil filter with a Mann HU718/5x fleece filter that I bought from intlautoparts.com (their stock number A6002-132856). The filter came with four new O rings (each of them mount on the stem that the oil filter is installed on), and I replaced them all despite that it appears the old rings were in acceptable condition. Interestingly, it appears that the filter installed on my car at the factory was a paper, not fleece filter. I used the fleece filter as it was recommended in several prior posts, and there is also a sticker under the hood of my car “Oil filter: Always replace with MB approved fleece filter element�. A replacement crushable copper washer is required for the drain plug, and was not included with the oil filter (apparently it is included with some genuine MB filters according to some earlier posts).
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Because I did not achieve a total drain on my last oil change (see my post above), I changed my oil again today, and ran into the same issue despite that my '55 was completely level up on a hoist this time. I was only able to drain about 5.0 to 5.5 quarts. I was able to get out the remaining approximately 3.5 quarts using a pump. Perhaps this is why the dealers use pumps instead of removing the oil pan drain plug? Is it possible the engine was designed to have it's oil changed with a pump? Gordon, I'm especially interested to hear your thoughts on this, thanks.
 

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There are two sumps on the SLK 55. If you drain only the front you will get out about 5 quarts. The real drain is at the back of the engine. If you drain that one you get out about 7 quarts. Drain both and you will get out all 8.5 quarts. You have to remove both plastic covers to get to both of the drain plugs.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
NCAMG - 8/1/2005 11:42 AM

There are two sumps on the SLK 55. If you drain only the front you will get out about 5 quarts. The real drain is at the back of the engine. If you drain that one you get out about 7 quarts. Drain both and you will get out all 8.5 quarts. You have to remove both plastic covers to get to both of the drain plugs.
Thanks, NCAMG, just curious, how did you know that?
 
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