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Discussion Starter #1
Is there an easy way to tell which door sensor says it's always open? The open door light warning is constantly on and also beeps, but which door?
 

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W124 e220, W124 230TE, W116 450SEL, W639 119CDI, W201 190E
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Might work the same as mine. Try to lock the car. Either the front or back (including tailgate) will lock, the doors that will not lock are the one(s) that are showing open.
I had the same problem with mine and it ended up being the tailgate. What finally let me nail it down was that the rear windscreen wiper/washer would not work due to the door being "open".
To save a few $ I ended up isolating the two wires that went to the sensor and bridged them with a single strand of copper wire jambed in the connector block. Now the only trouble I have is that if I dont open another door apart from the tailgate within a minute of using the remote the car locks again.
 

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Zotye Auto 1.5T T600 2016
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It is normally the tailgate that causes this.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Cheers - good pointers. The one that doesn't lock! Makes sense.

The tailgate does get quite a bang every time it slams shut, so I can see why that's a clear suspect! but from memory it was the sliding door that didn't lock.

How does one test the wires? Presumably if I take off one of the lock sensors, I'll find a bunch of wires inside. If there's no clear indication, like one dangling in the open LOL I'll have to use a multi-meter - but how do I know which one is supposed to have current?
 

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W124 e220, W124 230TE, W116 450SEL, W639 119CDI, W201 190E
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Sliding doors and tailgate are on the same circuit. On the tailgate there is only two wires that go to the striker of the lock the ones to the locking soleniod are obvious. Pull the connector and bridge accross the contacts. If the dashlight goes out you know you have the correct door
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Thanks - just confirmed that tailgate locks fine with the remote but the sliding door doesn't, so I'll focus on that first.

There are five vertical flat metal conductors on the door post, and five matching pins on the door. The pins push in when the door closes and therefore complete the circuit.

Gave them a good clean with steel wool, but still no joy and they look like they may need changing.

Does anyone know what each of the five vertical connectors do?

 

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1999 108CDI
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My sliding door posts only have 2 of these each side. If they get as pitted as yours, central locking plays up. You can buy them from installers, just refit wire connectors to new ones.
 

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Vito 115cdi 2005
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I have swopped mine from left to right, this means the spring contacts now rub on a different spot. Has been working perfectly for three years since.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Smart solution 8)

I only have one sliding door, but I've ordered a replacement part, which was cheap at around 10 quid. Should be here soon and we'll see if that solves it. Thanks for the advice, great forum!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well, replaced the sliding door contact plate, but no joy... and also the tailgate doesn't lock (contrary to earlier test) - so I'll be heeding your advice to check the tailgate lock.

They all unlock, just the sliding and tailgate don't lock by remote, which when solved I hope will clear the 'door open' warning.

Thanks for the advice.
 

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Rear Doors

Hi Guys

Reading through these posts have got the rear of my van locked again. After swapping the two contacts over on the side doors I managed to come to the conclusion of the rear doors. I've only had this van a week and it turns out the back doors have been the problem as I found the switch loose in one of the doors. Does anyone have a clue where this switch is meant to live as have proved it's location isn't where found it lol?

Regards
Daz

Mercedes Vito 109 CDI 04
 

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Found it!

Was hoping to get a reply on this, but guess not. Anyway managed to find where the switch lives now and have the van working brilliant again :D.

Switch is located on the top catch of the door which you will need to undo the 3 torx screws. Switch lives on the side of this and sits inside a small metal clipped bracket which you may need to find dropped inside the door.

Daz

Hi Guys

Reading through these posts have got the rear of my van locked again. After swapping the two contacts over on the side doors I managed to come to the conclusion of the rear doors. I've only had this van a week and it turns out the back doors have been the problem as I found the switch loose in one of the doors. Does anyone have a clue where this switch is meant to live as have proved it's location isn't where found it lol?

Regards
Daz

Mercedes Vito 109 CDI 04
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I've now opened up the tailgate (one door, lifts upwards) and there's the lock and actuator, with a clip with 4 wires.

Remote opens but does not lock. I sprayed some contact cleaner and it jumped back to life, and the side door also went back to working. After several positive tries, I closed everything back up, went to congratulate myself with a final locking, and I'm now back to square one! LOOOL

At least I know it's the wires going into the tailgate lock.

Now I need to find a narrow, long and sharp enough tester to see if the problem is in the wires, or in the actuator itself.
 

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W124 e220, W124 230TE, W116 450SEL, W639 119CDI, W201 190E
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Try sewing pins or needles as probes instead of the probes with your multimeter. :D
With my vito I found that the switch was not reading as door closed. The door would unlock when I used the remote (after manually locking the rear door) but the remote would not lock the door:mad: . The sensor is part of the lock and for around $120 US I thought too expensive and just bridged between the sensor wires with a single strand of copper wire (held in place when I re-assembled the plug) :thumbsup: . Now the door sensor computor thinks the door is closed my rear windscreen wiper works again and the remote locks and unlocks the rear door.
Really cheap fix at less than 1c worth of copper.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Cheers - that's the genius I need 8)

OK, seems exactly the same issue. So, hope you don't mind a few questions:

You bridged on the wire connector side, or on the door lock side?

How did you find out which sensor wires did what? There's 4 wires entering: black stripe, blue stripe, green stripe and red stripe, which I think is actually supposed to be a Jamaican beer... but I digress... focus, focus! ;)

If you removed the lock, and how did you get the metal rods that go to the manual handle off? There's three of them. I had a quick look and they seem they should be clips but I didn't want to just tug at random and end up breaking one.
 

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1/ Disconnect the plug from the lock. I think you will find that the plug has female connectors in it.
2/ Make a bridging piece utilising a paperclip bent into a U shape.
3/ With the engine running (someone in the driver's seat) start bridging between two contacts at a time until the "door open" light on the dash goes out
4/ Turn the engine off, remove the key and with the front and side doors closed see if the remote will lock the doors. The bridge must still be in place, the rear door can still be open.
5/ The bridge has sent a false signal to the computor that the rear door is closed, now all we have to do is make it "pemanent".
6/ I got a single strand of copper wire from a bit of cable (not much thicker than one of my beard hairs!) and cut it about 20 mm long.
7/ Bend it into a U shape and replace the paperclip with the copper wire. Make sure you press it in so it is flush with the plastic part of the connector plug.
8/ With the copper in place reconnect the connector to the lock/sensor assembly. We're using the pins on the lock/sensor assembly to hold the copper in place.
9/ Once you have the connector back in place you should be able to hear the rear door being locked and unlocked using the remote.
10/ Now your rear windscreen wiper should work again just for an added bonus!
11/ Only drawback that I've found is the car will re-lock itself after a minute or so if you dont open another door other than the tailgate 'cause the computor thinks that the tailgate is still closed!

As for the rods that connect the internal and external handles with the lock mechanism. There are clips that go through the holes in the levers that the bent section of the rods go through. These clips rotate and lock onto the rods. Find the open side of the clip along the rod and push the clip away from the rod. Once the clip rotates and releases the rod you should be able to lift the end of the rod clear of the lever.

Hope this little lot helps
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Perfection!

Unfortunately didn't get pics, but the procedure above, provided by hockeyanimal56, is fool-proof, even for me ;)

No need to remove the lock, just pull out the wire clip. The wires that required bridging were the green/gray stripe and black/gray stripe. Single strand of copper wire, stays in place when the clip goes in. Vito is fooled into thinking rear door is always closed, so the door locking works and door open light doesn't come on anymore.

It'll be hard to find a cheaper and smarter hack than this one to solve the "door open" problem. Brilliant! 8)
 

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Perfection!

Unfortunately didn't get pics, but the procedure above, provided by hockeyanimal56, is fool-proof, even for me ;)

No need to remove the lock, just pull out the wire clip. The wires that required bridging were the green/gray stripe and black/gray stripe. Single strand of copper wire, stays in place when the clip goes in. Vito is fooled into thinking rear door is always closed, so the door locking works and door open light doesn't come on anymore.

It'll be hard to find a cheaper and smarter hack than this one to solve the "door open" problem. Brilliant! 8)
Same problem with my W639, at least I got to identify the problem with this fix. Only wire colours where blue-green and black-green. After inserting a bridge the door-open light went out, so it must be the locking sensor. Its a unit, so its not simple to replace the sensor. Keeping the bridge in was also not a good option.

I got an original lock from the MB dealer for about €80, and that fixed it.
 

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I thought this thread had solved my problem, but apparently not.
My rear doors would unlock electronically, but not lock. I could only lock all three rear doors manually.
I bridge-tested the connector on the tailgate lock. After identifying 2 wires that convinced the circuit that the tailgate was closed, I joined these 2 wires together.
Now I can lock all doors electronically with one press of the button (as it should be), however the tailgate no longer unlocks.
Have I joined the wrong 2 wires? Is it possible that a different combination of 2 wires out of 4 might work without preventing unlocking?
Or could I have damaged something that is preventing the 2 remaining wires from connecting properly?
Or is it more likely that I have a mechanical issue with the lock itself or the actuator?
When I press the unlock button, there is no sign - no clicking noise or anything - to indicate that the tailgate is trying to unlock. It just seems "dead".

I will investigate and experiment further, unless anyone can offer a quick answer
 
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