[Akorna]

I have searched for interior squeaks, which only produces issues with the blower motor.

I have a re-occuring, what I believe is an interior squeek that I have been unable to pin down. It happens most often when the ambient temperature is below 70 degrees and the car is moving and going over bumps or irregular pavement. It may squeek for a short time, or for several days, but comes and goes. Depending on where you are sitting in the car, it sounds like it is coming from different areas - dash mostly. I have pushed, pulled, prodded, and tightened a number of suspects, but now luck so far.

Anybody run across something similar and solved?

 

[Akorna]

Interestly enough, drove the car to work today - temp and humidity up some - 75 degrees. Not a hit of a squeak. Appears to be related to thermal expansion or contraction of something. Really surprised that this has not occured in someone else's vehicle.

 

[Akorna]

Squeak from shift linkage bushings?

No responses so kept searching.

I read a post that someone had a similar squeak that they traced to the shift lever (not the dash). Got me thinking about the shift linkage bushings. I put the '91 up on the lift. both the shifter end and the transmission end had no evidence of bushings! They were completely gone! The linkage was just rattling around - at least the clips were still in place.

I've ordered the bushings and will hope to install next week. I can barely see the transmission end, and from what I've read, I'll need to lower the trans and remove the shift arm and lower the linkage with the arm attached. At the moment, that connection is hidden by the electrical connector and speedo cable on the drivers side. Doesn't look like any fun.

 

[Nfsjunkie91]

I can vouch for the following:

Chasing down squeaks by one's self is a pain in the ass. Our S class had a squeak from the shifter as well, and the bushing was also gone. The shifter metal was moving against the plastic and making a high-pitched noise.

Replacing the transmission end of the shifter linkage is a MAJOR pain in the ass. I was doing this while swapping transmission about a year ago. Stupidly, I did not install the new bushing while the transmission was off the car. I ended up dropping the pan and disconnecting the shift arm, I took off the electronic part for P and N (2 x 10mm bolts) and then disconnected the shift arm with a 6mm hex, pulling it out from under the car, and using a few sockets and a C clamp to put it on.

If you don't want to do all that, there is a specialty tool that is designed for that purpose.

 

[Akorna]

Parts are in....

I've got the linkage bushings and clips and should be able to start this weekend on the repair.

Nfsjunkie91 - you said that you "dropped the pan," did you mean "lower the transmission?"

I've looked at this and can barely see the transmission end of the linkage at the arm. Read that this was similar to vacuum modulator replacement, but the 2.6 (which I have) is more difficult than the 2.3's to physically get the trans to lower sufficiently to access the arm. Also understand the disconnecting all the exhaust hangers is required to allow enough trans movement. True?

 

[1984babybenz]

I've got the linkage bushings and clips and should be able to start this weekend on the repair.

Nfsjunkie91 - you said that you "dropped the pan," did you mean "lower the transmission?"

I've looked at this and can barely see the transmission end of the linkage at the arm. Read that this was similar to vacuum modulator replacement, but the 2.6 (which I have) is more difficult than the 2.3's to physically get the trans to lower sufficiently to access the arm. Also understand the disconnecting all the exhaust hangers is required to allow enough trans movement. True?

Removing the transmission mount and the exhaust hanger that's connected to the transmission is all you need to remove.

It's a huge pain to do, but it's possible without the special tool.

I covered my new bushing in petroleum jelly, and used screw drivers and long needle nose pliers to pry it into place.

What could also make it easier is if you grind the outside of the bushing down SOME, not a lot. It will slide in a whole lot easier then. You don’t want to grind down so much that it won’t stay in place, just enough to make it easier to press in.

 

[Akorna]

Folks - I'm pretty sure the late model 190e 2.6 is a little different config. The trans only lowers about 1 inch or so, and I was able to get the P/N swich off - but the shift arm at the trans has no external fasteners (see pic). I currently have the pan off and there is a 5mm hex head bolt above the valve body. Is that how you get the arm off?

 

[Akorna]

I meant "5 mm allen head bolt" in my last post - I think that was the ticket, but the bolt would not budge, so I couldn't remove the arm. I trimmed the bushing and was able to work it into the hole in the shift arm with long needle nose pliers and bolt/washer. I wedged a socket between the trans tunnel and the arm for support while I pushed against it with the bushing/bolt/washer assembly. I installed new MB clips also. Everything was re-assembled and fluid topped off. Job done - hope there are no more squeaks.