Hello, I know my Valve cover breather hose is leaking in my 1985 300CD (just ordered new one). But where does all that blow-by collected under the air filter supposed to go? The oil looks like it just spills over to the tube under the air filter that goes up to the air intake (turbo).
Where does BLOW-BY oil go???
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'84 300D/ dakota benz trk. Sold... miss it. "88 260E '91 190E 2.6 '89 Volvo 240DL "85 300D
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drains back to pan. if you look under the breather lid, you will see how it works. it doesnt get sucked back through the turbo. if you have ever had your entire breather off the engine you will see the little tube that connects with the bottom of the breather, it has an o-ring on it.
From what I could tell looking at the schematics in the Haynes manual I have, it looks as though the oil is separated from the gases and the gases are redirected back into the intake and the oil goes back to the pan. Is that a correct reading? Anyone? Anyone? Just curious because I have a performance intake and I routed the gases back into the intake after the oil separation. I hope I'm not screwing it up!
The stock setting is set so the gases go though the intake and the oil goes back to the oil pan down below. No need to have good oil burnt up by routing the oil into the intake. Your setup is fine as long as the oil goes back down to the pan.
Thanks for the reply. The performance intake I bought was made by some dude and sold on eBay just specifically for the w123 diesels and he included a gas/oil separator type part for the whole system. I just modified that one part myself: the original maker just said to run the gases out of the bottom of the vehicle, but that stunk and made it look like I was burning oil all the time.
You may want to switch back to the OEM setup. The only thing that the "performance intake" made go faster was the money out of your wallet.
I have to agree with H-town on this one though because the OEM system does a fine job as is. The performance kits out there don't really seem to do much in terms of increasing power and whatnot. In regards to your case with blow-by and oil, as long as the combustion gases and oil go back to where they're supposed to be the car will be fine.
What kind of air filter are you using? Just curious. I run the stock system on the 240D so it's got a good German made Mann C 30 122 filter. Mahle is also good.
What kind of air filter are you using? Just curious. I run the stock system on the 240D so it's got a good German made Mann C 30 122 filter. Mahle is also good.
Believe it or not, but I couldn't believe the added throttle response with the intake kit. Before hand, no matter how I adjusted the ALDA or throttle-body, it was 0-60 in 6 cigarettes while red-lining the engine. Now, it performs like a real car and falls under the "stock" times. Also, and I'm not totally sure about this, but I believe it has also improved my mileage (last calculation was 27mpg).
I'm a real happy camper with regards to the upgrade.
I'm a real happy camper with regards to the upgrade.
Have you any numbers to prove that the intake kit worked? This quicker performance may all be perceived rather than true.Believe it or not, but I couldn't believe the added throttle response with the intake kit. Before hand, no matter how I adjusted the ALDA or throttle-body, it was 0-60 in 6 cigarettes while red-lining the engine. Now, it performs like a real car and falls under the "stock" times. Also, and I'm not totally sure about this, but I believe it has also improved my mileage (last calculation was 27mpg).
Well, we are getting way off topic here. I'm surprised by so much skepticism towards comments made by others. We all come from different schools of thought and different ages of design and dynamics theories. To 84300CD, I'm sorry about that.
Yes, I do have numbers, original condition 0-60 was 35 seconds and now it's around 11 seconds depending on how hard I push it. I'm not entirely sure I agree that the stock intakes are the best engineered for these vehicles. I will say they are the best engineered for the intended performance goals for the model design and emissions restrictions of the day. If these types of performance mods didn't work, then the racing industry would be screwed because every owner of a stock civic would be winning the Indy500. I also do not entirely agree with labeling the intake as a hot air intake as it pulls general engine compartment air, which could be hot, but also air which flows into the compartment for the purposes of passive air cooling of the engine. There are other posts by people here on this board who have installed the same exact intake I installed and the consensus seems to be consistent regarding our experiences.:thumbsup:
I take it from your sig you will be going to the meet? I'm new to this but was thinking about signing up. Perhaps we can compare up then. I am curious about how everyone elses is setup and always looking for new ideas.
Yes, I'll be at the meet. In fact, I'm the guy putting it on. We can talk filter setups and more. We usually have a good number of diesel W123s coming, they're usually the most popular car there.
Blow by oil goes right to the pan if it's not leaking at the o ring, the rest of the vapor goes back into the intake.
As for going from 35 seconds to 11 seconds with an air filter, that's simply not possible. 300D turbos unless in terrible shape will not take 35 seconds to 60 nor will it drop to as low as 11 seconds. OM602 Turbos and OM603's in 1987 300D's can do that.
As for going from 35 seconds to 11 seconds with an air filter, that's simply not possible. 300D turbos unless in terrible shape will not take 35 seconds to 60 nor will it drop to as low as 11 seconds. OM602 Turbos and OM603's in 1987 300D's can do that.
You're right. I was simply approximating 11 seconds, it may have been a bit slower. I read on here that stock 0-60 numbers were in the 15 second range. I downloaded Dynolicious on my iPhone and will see about getting some very specific numbers soon. I did stop-watch it today from a stopped position, right turn onto a main road to 60, it was approximately 16 seconds +/- 0.5 sec. But when I got the car, before the intake mod, I also stop-watched it at 35 seconds. I'm serious, you have no idea how slow it was to get going. It was painfully slow; I even had people high-beaming me from behind because, even with the foot to the floor, it simply wouldn't accelerate. I was thinking about putting up a post with pics and more info, including links, about my setup.
Update: Attached are images of the result of three test runs I made just a bit ago. I realized on my way back home that not only did I have several boxes of books in the trunk, it was a windy night and on a slight incline (though I could not give you specific degrees of incline); but it was the flattest area around I could think of without cops. The program also states a peak horsepower of 122HP (though this could be due to the still slightly rough shifting of the transmission, you can see the shift points easily on the graph), max acceleration Gs of 0.34G and a 1/4 mile in 20.22sec. @ 72.2mph. All told, with some practice and no books, I think I could shave a good second off that time.
Oh, and this was with a Vehicle weight of 4500lbs (I got this from the inside drivers door area) and a drivetrain loss of 20%. If anyone knows more specific numbers than these, I will gladly re-run the tests!
Attachments
O-ring for the tube going back down to the oil pan? Where is this O-ring located? Does that tube run inside the air intake tube where the breather hose connects (weird). Would like to know these things before I take apart the air intake tubing.
Also weird that the blow-by drips through the center of the air filter and pools at the bottom of the air filter canister. Is this just something that will need to be sopped up with a rag every month?
Also weird that the blow-by drips through the center of the air filter and pools at the bottom of the air filter canister. Is this just something that will need to be sopped up with a rag every month?
I am not exactly familiar with the dynolicious accuracy but the car doesn't weigh 4500lbs....(my 6.9 does though). That is the GVWR....it should weigh 3300lbs or so as I recall.
As for 35 seconds to 60 there was seriously something wrong. No ATF, low boost etc. If the air intake sucked up a bag of flour I could see that but if you want to put that one to rest, put the old filter back on and run it twice in opposing directions and see what the program says with and without the air filter.
Hi
If you have an oil separator in your air filter, the breather hose from the valve cover connects to the top of the separator through the top of the air filter. The botton of the separator (under the air filter) connects to an oil return line leading to the oil pan. There is an O-ring at this connection.
After passing through the oil separator, the blowby enters the intake to be burned in the engine.
If you're getting a lot of oil in the bottom of the air filter, perhaps you will want to cleanup and check the separator first. If you really have excessive blowby you may think about fabricating and adding another oil separator before the air filter.
If you don't have an oil separator to start with then you may want to make an add-on oner.
Yeah, going through my paper work, I got two different weight, 3500lbs and 4500lbs. I decided to go with what was printed in the car itself. If you've got an iphone, I'd check out the web site for the dynolicious program. They are very confident in it and test it against other much more expensive units that are designed specifically for the same purposes. It's an interesting look-through.
I'll update to 3500lbs, if that'll satisfy ya. This intake is more than just a filter and I've had it on the car for a while now, e.g. no more stock intake, housing, tubing, etc. I tried searching around here for the drivetrain loss number, but didn't turn anything specific up.
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