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1999 ML 320, 2000 CLK 430 Convertible(RIP), 2002 CLK55 Convertible & 2011 ML 350 4Matic
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143 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi Guys,

I hope I'm explaining this correctly - my searches turned up nothing close to what I'm experiencing. My problem is with starting the vehicle. The car does start and runs with no problems; however, when I turn the key, the engine turnovers several times before the car starts. Where I would expect one to two turns (like my old CLK430), it takes five or so before the car starts. The only thing that came to my mind was the CPS which I changed with no improvement. Although I don't think it's the problem, I plan to change the air filters today. Any thoughts?

Thanks,

TennisGuy
 

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Have 2000 CLK320 soft top,W210s replaced with rare'11 Turbo 9-5NG (only 500 imported) , '07 9-7x.
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156 Posts
When you say you replaced the crank position sensor, was it the sensor on the very back of the engine? There is another sensor on the front that some people get confused, I believe it might be called "cam position sensor" & it is located front left.

Just double checking, since the CPS rear sensor replacement is usually the culprit and usually does not throw a code. If you did replace the rear one, I would start with checking the fuel pressure.
 

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1999 ML 320, 2000 CLK 430 Convertible(RIP), 2002 CLK55 Convertible & 2011 ML 350 4Matic
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143 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I replaced the rear one. I'll see if I can get it in this week to have the fuel pressure checked.
 

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2002 Mercedes Benz CLK430
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67 Posts
extended turnovers

My 2002 CLK 430 Cabrio does the same thing...No code...and happens sporadically. Sometimes I just turn the key back and try starting again, and it kicks right on. It's odd. Never brought it up with my mechanic, cause it doesn't happen that often.
 

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02 clk 55 cabriolet
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550 Posts
Load tested the battery yet? Could be getting low and taking all the juice to turn things over, not leaving enough for a hot spark. Does it start the same hot or cold? Cold battery, cold motor, takes the most juice.
 

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1999 ML 320, 2000 CLK 430 Convertible(RIP), 2002 CLK55 Convertible & 2011 ML 350 4Matic
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143 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Thanks MarcusF. I actually noticed a difference after changing the air filters (which were very dirty) and am looking to change the spark plugs soon.
Hi Bobbyjo09. I was thinking the battery might be an issue, but wasn't sure. I hadn't noticed if there was a difference with a hot start versus a cold one. I will have it tested tomorrow to see if this is an issue.

Thanks for the advice guys.

Tennisguy
 

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R230 SL350 Presnt, Past - W208 CLK230K 2000, W203 C Class, W202 C Class, W210 E Class, W201 190E
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1,470 Posts
Hi Guys,

I hope I'm explaining this correctly - my searches turned up nothing close to what I'm experiencing. My problem is with starting the vehicle. The car does start and runs with no problems; however, when I turn the key, the engine turnovers several times before the car starts. Where I would expect one to two turns (like my old CLK430), it takes five or so before the car starts. The only thing that came to my mind was the CPS which I changed with no improvement. Although I don't think it's the problem, I plan to change the air filters today. Any thoughts?

Thanks,

TennisGuy
I have had that problem when you turn the key, the car should turn over about 3 times and then automatically fire, and like you one day it would not start and I would have to try for ages over a couple of minutes to get the car to start. However once started the car behaved normally?. I found the root cause to be the 'Fuel Pump Relay' located in the boot under the carpet on the right hand side at the back near the fuse. Its a small black box about 1" square that pulls out and the contacts inside were dirty. Now if you look at the photo I have attached, you'll see that there are two small plastic catches that you can easily lever open with a screwdriver to be able to remove the plastic cover. With the cover off you can see the small metal reed contacts and if there is a lot of fur build up then give them a clean with a thin piece of card of very fine sand paper.

IF like my car your car is nearly 11 years old then its a good chance its this problem, especially if you have already changed the crank position sensor and ruled that option out.... good luck!
 

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1999 ML 320, 2000 CLK 430 Convertible(RIP), 2002 CLK55 Convertible & 2011 ML 350 4Matic
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143 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Hi A1EK,

Thanks for the info. I checked the relay and it was as clean as a whistle. That being said, the car started right up when I replaced the part. I didn't notice whether the part was loose when I removed it, but if it continues to start with no lag, I'm going to assume it was something of that nature causing the extended turnovers.

Thanks.

TennisGuy
 

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2001 E240
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506 Posts
The Mercedes part number on the relay is: A0025427219
The internal Hella part number is: 4RA 007.791-13

There is another part number from Hella 4RA 007.791-11. This corresponds to Mercedes part number A 0025421319-26. More expensive. This relay is factory fitted and comes with the new car.

According to Hella, These are the specs for the two:

4RA 007.791-11 is 950/630 High Power Mini SPST
4RA 007.791-13 is 630 ISO Mini SPST

I read in the USA they are sold for $30.65; and $12.32 respectively. The high power comes in a Hella box, the Mini SPST comes in a Mercedes Orig Parts box.

I have the same random long cranking issue before engine starts. I swapped the fuel pump relay with the starter relay which is in the K40 fuse box - it does cure this long cranking issue; but it is good for only 3 days (or about 15 ignitions) before the old 8-seconds cranking redoing. Car runs awesome once started. Car never has to start twice, only once, but the cranking randomly is a bit too long.

I changed already the following parts on advice of forum members here....

Battery
Crankshaft pos sensor
Camshaft pos sensor
12x spark plugs Mercedes branded
Fuel pump
Fuel Filter
Fuel pump relay


Still the long cranking randomly does. So I went on to change the following parts:

2x pre-cat 02 sensors
Coolant temp sensor
solenoid / starter
2x cat converter
Starter relay

The long random is still there.

I suspect it is due to the relay:4RA 007.791-13 made by Hella, which the MB dealer said has replaced the factory fitted, P/N A 0025421319 which is no more selling on the market.

Also I discovered on other forums there is actually A 0025421319-26, but this P/N with suffix -26 is also not available in the market.

I believe it is this relay substitute that is ghosting around.

BTW this long cranking does mostly after car is driven and parked a while, and not in 1st start of the day. It can be after car is parked 3 minutes, or 3 hours; can never do once in 9 starts; can also do consecutively for 5 starts. Absolutely no fixed pattern - that you can't believe it is lost fuel pressure or leaking injectors related.

Immediate resolution:
Have tested various means, and found only 2 work to cure this cranking issue:

1) turn key to pos 2 and wait for a few seconds there, in the meantime taking time to wear your seat belt, before turning key to pos 3 to start car.

2) push key inward while turning to pos 3 to start car; no need to wait at pos 2.
 

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R230 SL350 Presnt, Past - W208 CLK230K 2000, W203 C Class, W202 C Class, W210 E Class, W201 190E
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1,470 Posts
Zaxler...


Your lost comment was to push key inward while turning? how does this work?
 

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2001 E240
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506 Posts
Zaxler...


Your lost comment was to push key inward while turning? how does this work?
I found this method in quite a few other forums, tested it myself, and found it works...

Pushed the key inward; kept pushing the key deeper into the hole while twisting key to pos 3 to start car.

I discussed with a few forum members on this; reply I received suggests that this might activate the circuit and make it work.
 

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R230 SL350 Presnt, Past - W208 CLK230K 2000, W203 C Class, W202 C Class, W210 E Class, W201 190E
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1,470 Posts
I found this method in quite a few other forums, tested it myself, and found it works...

Pushed the key inward; kept pushing the key deeper into the hole while twisting key to pos 3 to start car.

I discussed with a few forum members on this; reply I received suggests that this might activate the circuit and make it work.
Hmmmm interesting! Do you think the strength of the battery on the keys has a part to play?

By the way I see your in HK, Just to inform the rest of the world that owning a car in Hong Kong especially a CLK is pricy business with 100% import tax amongst other cost like parking! I used to live there many years ago back in the early 90's and every other car I saw was either a taxi, Rolls Royce or Mercedes. In fact I believe that there are more Rolls in HK then any where else in the wolrd.! So good work in owning a CLK out there, that shows class and presence! Now however im back in the UK, Glasgow, but being half Chinese I could not let the Merc leave me.!
 

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2001 E240
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506 Posts
The battery in the key is only to lock and unlock car and nothing to do with ignition. Was told that even without battery in it the key can still start the car, though I didn't test this yet.

This random 8 seconds of cranking really pisses me off.

What do you guys think is the culprit?
 

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1999 ML 320, 2000 CLK 430 Convertible(RIP), 2002 CLK55 Convertible & 2011 ML 350 4Matic
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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Hi Zaxler,

Thanks for the info. Moreover, thanks for saving me from replacing all of the parts you replaced. So, are you saying there is no relay that resolves the issue? If not, I can definitely live with it. I only lose a second or two out of my life and the car run beautifully once it has started.

TennisGuy
 

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2001 E240
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506 Posts
Hi Zaxler,

Thanks for the info. Moreover, thanks for saving me from replacing all of the parts you replaced. So, are you saying there is no relay that resolves the issue? If not, I can definitely live with it. I only lose a second or two out of my life and the car run beautifully once it has started.

TennisGuy
If your car does stall after started, or unable to start, then relay is a suspect; but if car only cranks a bit long and always starts in 1 key cycle, replacing the relay does not solve the problem. This fuel pump relay P/N A002 542 7219 by Hella (the substitute for P/N A002 542 1319-26) costs only USD10. Don't bother to repair - just buy a new one and see if it works.

If you pause at pos 2 before turning key to pos 3 and this does cure the long cranking - the odds are your fuel pump and fuel filter are okay. If waiting at pos 2 does not make any difference, then either the fuel filter or the fuel pump or both is shot. This is my findings on basis of numerous replies I have received from forum members.

My car also runs beautiful once started. It always starts in 1st attempt albeit randomly the cranking takes 8 seconds which is a bit too long. Checked codes but none.
 

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2001 CLK 320 and 2002 ML 320
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Wish someone can find the issue with this sporadic long cranking. I have also changed the Fuel Pump Relay, Fuel Filter (from the stealership) and did a fuel pressure check and the pressure kept. I suspect it has to do with the Fuel Filter and the Relay being out of sync periodically. All my problems started when I changed out my Fuel Filter.
 

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2001 E240
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506 Posts
Wish someone can find the issue with this sporadic long cranking. I have also changed the Fuel Pump Relay, Fuel Filter (from the stealership) and did a fuel pressure check and the pressure kept. I suspect it has to do with the Fuel Filter and the Relay being out of sync periodically. All my problems started when I changed out my Fuel Filter.
Are you saying even the dealer is unable to find out the cause of this sporadic long cranking?
 

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2001 CLK 320 and 2002 ML 320
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71 Posts
Issue went away after replaced defective Alternator

I don't know if that was the issue with my extended turnover BUT approximately 2 weeks ago my OEM Alternator went kaput (after 217,000 miles ). My issue went away after replaced defective Alternator. After 2 weeks no more extended turnover so far. My extended turnovers happened at least 2-3 time per week previously.
 
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