i have a c220 and when i come to a complete stop at the traffic lights, it quite often splutters a tiny bit then dies. any help appreciated. i think it could be spark plugs but someone said it could be fuel pump, or a cam sensor or something like that.
when i stop my car turns off???
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
1997 W202-C180 Classic, smoke silver metallic, Lowered
Joined
·
271 Posts
Seems like you've got an early version of the stop start tech
Have you changed or done anything to it recently?
Mine did this and by memory it was the MAF on the way out, might not be the same problem for you though
Have you changed or done anything to it recently?
Mine did this and by memory it was the MAF on the way out, might not be the same problem for you though
no i have not done anything to it in a while as it was running so good with no propblems up untill now, il change the spark plugs today and if it continues to do it, i will get a new maf
Mine used to do the exact same thing. Only thing that fixed it was a BOSCH brand maf. Dont buy generic. Unless your plugs are just completely shot, which is doubtful, I doubt you will notice any difference by doing the plugs.
Joined
·
880 Posts
Have you tried putting car in neutral and coasting to a stop?
If trans is not coming out of lock-up, it will stall.
If trans is not coming out of lock-up, it will stall.
yeah i did that once put it in neutral gave it a rev as i was driving along and as i was rolling it then switched off as soon as the revs dropped back down
1997 W202-C180 Classic, smoke silver metallic, Lowered
Joined
·
271 Posts
Just remember with the sparks you need the non-resistor type otherwise that will bring you even more problems
ok thank you. i have bought a new maf so i will go with that and see if that fixes it
Inspect your wiring harness, could be wiring to the MAF and throttle actuator is bad? Had this same problem with my 96 C220, wiring from ECM to throttle actuator was deteriorated. Rebuilt main engine compartment harness and from engine connector to the internals of the throttle actuator.
I would suggest starting there, unless have evidence of harness replacement. Even if the main engine harness has been replaced. The wiring from harness to the throttle actuator could be bad.
I would suggest starting there, unless have evidence of harness replacement. Even if the main engine harness has been replaced. The wiring from harness to the throttle actuator could be bad.
ok, hopefully this isnt going to cost me to mutch.......
did it cost you mutch, was it hard to replace or quite easy?
I spent about $80 on wire, tape and heat shrink tubing. I removed the harness in about a 1.5 hours. Spent most of the time removing the stupid plastic covers to expose the harness. The actual removal of the engine harness is not too bad, coils (under intake manifold) and throttle actuator (little clearance to get hands in) are tedious. Once had removed the harness removed all the tape, found the wiring close to the ECM was perfect but any wiring exposed to engine heat, the insulation had deteriorated and crumbled. Spliced new wiring from there to each connector, using the old wire as a length guide. Most connectors was able to directly solder to ends because of the 'awesome' industrial type wiring connectors MB uses which can be un-soldered. I individually heat shrunk each wire at the ECM and then re-wrapped the harness with tape. As recall need about 5 different wire gauges (sizes). Took me about 4-5 hours to do. I am experienced with this type of thing though. I would probably recommend purchasing an assembled harness unless you have experience in soldering and repairing wiring.
I think there are many cars still out there with bad wiring harnesses. But you really don't have too much trouble until you do more extensive engine work like head gasket replacement. Then you move the harness and this movement causes the insulation to come off. This is why so many people have electrical problems after doing engine work on the pre-1997 cars. My car was a late 1996 manufacture, as understand should have had the improved harness (non soy based-bio-degradable) insulation but did not.
Before you get to this remove the plastic cover in the front of the valve cover and cut some of the tape back on the wiring to the EGR solenoid valve/air pump valve and air pump. Check the condition of this wire. If wire ok here the rest of the harness is probably ok. This was the area of worse wire insulation deterioration, on my harness, as exposed to a lot of heat.
This fixed my engine stumbling and dyeing at stops. I also had a bad MAF but found replacing this did not resolve this issue, The MAF wiring to ECM was perfect. Still would stumble at stops. I think what happens is the ECM cannot control, because the wiring going to the DC PM motor inside the actuator is shorted. In my case I found one of the wires feeding the motor had broken (open) because of the deteriorated wire insulation. Even after replacement of wire I had to go thru a ECM reset to get the actuator to operate.
The wiring harnesses are expensive this is why I opted to DIY. I am cheap and since have the skills to fix, I gave is a try and has worked fine for the last several months.
I think there are many cars still out there with bad wiring harnesses. But you really don't have too much trouble until you do more extensive engine work like head gasket replacement. Then you move the harness and this movement causes the insulation to come off. This is why so many people have electrical problems after doing engine work on the pre-1997 cars. My car was a late 1996 manufacture, as understand should have had the improved harness (non soy based-bio-degradable) insulation but did not.
Before you get to this remove the plastic cover in the front of the valve cover and cut some of the tape back on the wiring to the EGR solenoid valve/air pump valve and air pump. Check the condition of this wire. If wire ok here the rest of the harness is probably ok. This was the area of worse wire insulation deterioration, on my harness, as exposed to a lot of heat.
This fixed my engine stumbling and dyeing at stops. I also had a bad MAF but found replacing this did not resolve this issue, The MAF wiring to ECM was perfect. Still would stumble at stops. I think what happens is the ECM cannot control, because the wiring going to the DC PM motor inside the actuator is shorted. In my case I found one of the wires feeding the motor had broken (open) because of the deteriorated wire insulation. Even after replacement of wire I had to go thru a ECM reset to get the actuator to operate.
The wiring harnesses are expensive this is why I opted to DIY. I am cheap and since have the skills to fix, I gave is a try and has worked fine for the last several months.
ok, how did you reset the ecm?. im waiting on my maf to arrive from germany. hopefully this will fix it. if not looks like il be looking down this track.
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
