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02 G500
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So im working on something with a little cash i have hidden from the wife.

I know the wheels tha chuck use to make are 16X8's and they set real flush with the finder flairs. Howeve im toying with the idea of mud rigs and bead locks which ad 1 to 1.25 of a inch in width once everthing is made and bolted on.

Now here is the question,

Which would work the best, have the wheels made in 16X7's then ad the rings which should put it at 16X8 or 16X8.5 or do the regular 16X8 becuase they have been proven by a few members on here that they work, and then install the rings which would be 16X9 or 16X9.5. If i do that of course the wheel will stick out. I was thinking if i went that way i could order the G55K flairs and cover them back up becuast the G55K has 18X9.5's i think.

So any suggestion on this?
 

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TJs, FJ40s, JGCs, G500
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flush or not flush - sticking out or not - is not alone determined by the width of your wheel. The ET is the primary factor.

Harald
 

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1987 280 GD TURBO
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132 Posts
I have made moulds to reproduce in fiberglass
the G55 style flares. For more info E mail
or call 450 227 8972.
Warren
 

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1996 G320 LWB
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126 Posts
Hey Warren, question for you, is it reasonably possible to swap out the automatic transmission on mid 90's 463 G and convert to manual?
 

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1987 280 GD TURBO
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132 Posts
I would not attempt that unless I had a donner 463
to get all the parts. After finding the proper
transmission, you will need to rebalance flywheel,
Different length drive shaft to T case, shifter
linkage and bracketry, clutch pedal, master cyl.
Neutral and back up light switches, modify or
change console and an infinate amount of small parts.
Easier to change trucks.
Warren
 

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00 g500
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2,289 Posts
Russ at europa is selling his '91 300ge SWB with factory 5 speed manual tranny. He's selling it on the europa website.
 

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'02 G500
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Does anyone have a comparo picture of the G55 flares vs G500 flares?

I didn't realize they were any different.


Brad
 

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1996 G320 LWB
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126 Posts
Hey Brad,

The G55 flares are different, I think 1.5 - 2" wider than the normal G500. If you go to the picture gallery on mbusa.com for the G500 and G55, I think you will be able to see the difference in some of the close up shots.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
4x4abc - 4/6/2006 11:03 AM

flush or not flush - sticking out or not - is not alone determined by the width of your wheel. The ET is the primary factor.

Harald
Well do you have any suggestions on what might work then?
 

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Kerr, harald is right that et is the primary factor... that said, if you take an et32 wheel (like those steelies) and throw 1.5" onto the outside face your're effective offset will be .75" or 19mm so your wheels will be effectively et13. The g55 flares still tuck in at the front and back of each flare so they match the bumpers and running boards but they do provide a lot more coverage as they transition upward and especially across their top surface, so they would help that much to keep crap off the lower parts of the side of your car, but will still help...

If you decide to go that route with tires that will stick out a lot more, g55 flares would be a pretty logical solution. I personally think the g55 flares stick out way to far for the stock g55 rims and tires on the truck (but it's probably the law that tires have to sit under the flares so that's the determining factor).

Also, if you go that route you may also want to keep in your plans a custom steering damper. I think i was gonna custom fit an Rancho RS5404, but the factory one works fine for me... but fitting a damper which is %30 the cost and might last longer is a tempting proposition for a simple mounting configuration.
 

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ewalberg, I'm not aware of a 'fender flare' law but certainly has some merit. However, there are laws that pertain to certain size vehicles/tires that require the use of mud flaps which help prohibit water or debris from being thrown on the traffic behind these vehicles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Yes here in va your tires have to be covered. the will let you fudge a little, however if you get infornt of cop in a bad mood in the rain there a good chance you will get a ticket.

So on the wheels if i want to keep the stock flairs (which would be nice, ORC has the bigger ones for $1K) how would i go about getting the off set and back spacing correct to run the the wheels and bead lock rings?
 

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The issue as i see it is that there doesn't exist anyone making wider rims like you'd prefer in beadlocks with enough offset you want/need. The only option i can think of would be to get custom beadlock rims. And the only person i ever found interested in the job was Stazworks, and after dealing with me, he might not want to make more rims for a g-wagen owner.

His process has since improved but by that time i had already got new rims so we agreed to a partial refund. I believe he can re-make my rims as double beadlockers without much change in offset, and he's already set up to make rims that fit the g-wagen so it might be worth your time... especially if your not hypersesitive to tire smoothness like i am.

There's always hutchinson's beadlockers but those are pretty narrow and cost a fortune... but top notch quality... you'd then need nothing, accept spacers if you wanted to make it wider stance looking. i think 255/85/16's were a good match for them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
true, well i have two companys that will make the wheels and have a price if i can tell them what i need. one way was to just pay the big bucks (for me at least $400 a wheel) Or use the company that chuck did and the ad the do it your self bead lock kit. Which was the way i was planning on going.

i wonder if i could just use the same information for chucks 16X8's and have them make the wheels 16X7? If so then by the time the rings for the bead locks where installed it would put me back to a 16X8.
 

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Going with Chucks guys, unless there's something really different about the 7" wide shells, it's actually the relationship between the outer face of the shell and the center geometry that results in et32 wheels with 8" rims... to do so the center is pushed as far outboard on the shell as possible... so on 7" rims will actually be significatly worse because the best they can make on 7" rims i'm gonna bet is 1" less offset... et07.

Your best be is to start with en 9" rims because assuming the shells and centers have similar geometry , you could actually get an et57 wheel without bead lockers, then add your beadlocker system maybe gets you into the et20-40 range which is more where you want to be.

What width tire are you planning on running? If you know the width of the tire, the width of the rim, and how the beadlockers change the centerline of the rim it wouldn't be that hard to figure out an ideal offset.

You may want to dig up the file i generated of our front brake and hub system. If i never posted it, let me know and i can. Not many 16" shells will fit over our calipers, 17's you're better off, but you still gotta make sure the rims has the appropriate dish to not hit the face of the caliper.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
thanks again for in the info. this is gettion over my head ;) i might just have to save more money and the expensive wheels.
 
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