Wheel covers
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1973 416 Doka, 1978 416 Doka, 1980 416 Doka..... Help me, I can't stop buying them!!!
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2,659 Posts
Kenny,
They look great! Where did you get the idea from??!!
Now don't take it to heart when CoachGeo tells you that its too much bling and is not needed! and to take it off!
They look great! Where did you get the idea from??!!
Now don't take it to heart when CoachGeo tells you that its too much bling and is not needed! and to take it off!
hehehe
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Is that a silicone bead sealing the wheel 'disc' mating with the wheel 'rim'? I have just had four of my 404 wheels powdercoated and the guy who did them pointed out that the process could not totally penetrate this seam and that I should seal the four mating places on each wheel. Did you use any special product? On the inside of the wheel, there is no problem; the mating is actually an overlap and is thoroughly blasted/powdercoated.
Yes the wheel cover idea is Von'S, keep though good idea's coming Von, HaHa, Oh and by the way so are the red spring's and yellow shock colours anyways I do like good ideas thanks Von.also yes you should silicone seal the seam of the wheels because the powder coating will not get into the seam or you will see rust in time .
Nice accent to wheels, and certainly not gaudy. Fits with the rest of truck very well.
Are covers readily available? And do they only fit 404 or other 400 series Mogs? I take it that you used M-B star from something else? How about a little "how to" from you or Von.
Are covers readily available? And do they only fit 404 or other 400 series Mogs? I take it that you used M-B star from something else? How about a little "how to" from you or Von.
1973 416 Doka, 1978 416 Doka, 1980 416 Doka..... Help me, I can't stop buying them!!!
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2,659 Posts
You can read about how I did it, here in this post!4x4 Explorer said:
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/unimog/1276915-making-some-bling-hows-mog-hubcaps.html
Unimog 404.1 Diesel (sold :( )1995 LMTV 1078
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5,857 Posts
Actually Kenny's use of smaller MB insignia is the ticket here. These look much less BlingyVON said:
Still not real practical though. Odd's are you'll never get anywhere near the lug nuts in the rocks. Something like this would be great for anyone that adds CTIS though.
What people really need to do is add a steel guard in front of the tire valve stem, like the Mogs designed for logging work. You're much more likely to scrub off a valve stem in the rocks then ding the lugs. The result would be instant deflation and possible a de-bead.coachgeo said:
Unimog 404.1 Diesel (sold :( )1995 LMTV 1078
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5,857 Posts
Thats why you use rubber valve stems. Won't stop the problem but it helps alot. Doing a protector at just the valve stem can create a wheel balance issue. Not a problem for slow moving logging mogs. Big problem for those that drive on the highway.Mogasaurus said:
I just got used Staun bead locks for mine. They come with a special valve stem for the tires that are rigid... this concerns me for the reasons you stated above. The one for the Staun bladder is rubber cause it is an innertube. I might first try modifying typical rubber tire valve stem for the tires and see how it goes.
Confused yet? LOL. When you run Staun Beadlocks you end up with two valve stems per tire. One for the bladder that inflates only to press the tire bead to the rims (locking it in place) and another to inflate/deflate the tubless tire.
Well, yeah - of coursecoachgeo said:
That's why you also tack a equal weight of metal 180 degrees away from the valve core.
A UniKnick I saw had a real nice set-up - Werner had taken heavy wall 1" tubing (well - 26mm), cut it lengthwise and welded a 2" long piece right to the wheel, outboard of the valve stem. On the other side, they had welded a piece of flat stock right to the wheel rim.
This is on my to-do list. I personally have torn two rubber valve stems right off Land Rover wheels.
Sorry for the thread hijack guys...
I've had that idea on the back burner for a while too. Was gonna do welded-on pipe, threaded for caps as well. I couldn't balance a wheel assembly, but I'm pretty sure a bare rim will fit on the machine and weld on counter-weights.
Unimog 404.1 Diesel (sold :( )1995 LMTV 1078
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5,857 Posts
It's my understanding that a large rim and tire is very hard to balance and the balance can change easily and quickly due to rubber loss like say loosing a chunk of tire on a rock, and many other factors. Makes since with the outer edge being so far from the center. So adding more potental unbalance elements to an already easy to unbalance situation is not good IMHO.
It's a catch 22 thing. If you rip them off often like Mogasaurus then it makes since. Mogasaurus, can you drill new holes and put your Valve steem deeper inboard?
It's a catch 22 thing. If you rip them off often like Mogasaurus then it makes since. Mogasaurus, can you drill new holes and put your Valve steem deeper inboard?
Well, I suppose, but my Rover has military wheels which have the stem a lot farther inboard then the Mog wheels. I think the issue with me has always been random wood debris getting in there from running though forest trails. Those sticks and splintered tree trunk ends are hell on soft squishy partscoachgeo said:
I've pulled pretty big pieces from the underside of both trucks that I didn't even see when on the trail. I've also seen plenty of pics of wood chunks stuck right through tire sidewalls - I guess I've been lucky to only destroy stems.
I've never tried balancing the Mog tires. They run right down the road, smooth as can be all the way up to 60-65 MPH with 14.5x20 MPT80's, so I figure adding equal weight 180 degrees off of the valve stem protector would be fine.
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