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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
no one was intrested in my last post and im running out of time on finding this product, want to get the part for this weekend :D i guess theres a few different calipers and i need to knwo which one i have. I'm almost postive ihave original caliper. does anyone know the orginal manfacture of the caliper? and if you dont any easy way to see what my caliper is, any log on the caliper i can go and lift my car up real quick and check?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Girling caliper; Teves caliper; Bendix calipers those are the three opitions they gave me.
 

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1979 280CE
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I have Bendix on my car, pretty sure they are the original brand.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
yeah i ran down stairs and jacked my car up just to see what i could see. and it was a mercedes symbol. thats all i saw. so is bendix original?
 

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money pits of various forms
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ATE Bendix and Girling.

Just buy remanned calipers they are pretty cheap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
well 40bucks for two repair kits vs....120for two rebuilt ones.....and me being poor......40bucks sounds so much better.
 

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1979 280CE
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Whats wrong with the calipers you have now?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
well i dont know the cause of bad calipers....but these are my problems at the moment. first off my brakes are worn down on one side, when i pull my tire off today i have deep groves in my rotors (i know i know; im replacing them this weekend) since i have new rotors and brakes ready to put on i dont want to ruin them with faulty calipers. (i think there faulty) anywho while just driving i hear a high pitched noise also when im going in first gear with out high revs i hear a grind. the high pitch is not always noticeable though. or maybe its not even there. so high pitch a high speeds; and also grinds a low speeds (with no brake applied) high pitch goes away when i press the brakes and returns after i take foot off brakes.
 

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'73 450SL, '83 300CD, '01 E320 4matic
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The calipers on my 123 are SHOT. I have the bendix type. I also have the rebuild kits sitting on the table in front of me. Bad calipers could cause one side to drag, that is what's wrong with mine. The driver front (most likely to have trouble, shortest line) has the outside piston stuck. It wont move in or out. I'm going to have a fun time freeing it up.

I have to get my 126 on the road so I can spend some time taking them apart and overhauling them. It's not really a major job, but it's tricky on this particular type, because you're going to need to keep one piston in while you get the other out. You'll need to find a clamp that will allow that, and keep your fingers out of it when you hit them with compressed air. I read the instructions on the manual CDs, the only thing I'm worried about is that it says the pistons have to be in basically perfect condition. They are supposedly chrome plated. I'm thinking if you carefully buff them that would be good enough, but you dont want to use anything too abrasive or it'll corrode fast and you'll be stuck in the same situation.

Remember. Moisture + heat = instant rust.

I'm giving it a shot anyway, for $15 and a few hours, it's worth it, but i have a funny feeling I'll end up replacing the calipers.

Aaron-
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
thanks for your advice, i believe my pistions go in and out, but i think there slowing down hense one brake is WAY lower then the other. im going to call mercedes tomorrow and asked them what type of caliper i have. hopefully mercedes is not to expensive oher wise ill two day from offline
 

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1983 240D in pieces 1977 280SE awaiting euro 280 transplant 1990 Audi 200 1995 Audi S6 avant
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The brand should be stamped on the caliper, it may be hard to find after 25 years of rust and gunk.You'll be able to find it with a can of brakleen and a wire brush. I'd be surprised if the stealership can tell by the VIN what brand were put on your car.All mine have been ATE and Girling, I forgot Bendix were put on these as well.
 

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2013 MINI Copper S Clubman, '84 300CD-weekend car
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I recently replaced my front calipers on the SD, they were Bendix, but when you replace them, you do both fronts, or rears. So you can put whatever you want on.
I understand MB used Bendix and ATE. Girling is the booster manufacturer, didn't know they made calipers as well. Anyway, a difference between Bendix and ATE is the shape of the retaining pad spring, the Bendix used a wire bent to specs. ATE used a flat, wide piece of spring steel.
Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
are you talking about the metal piece that holds the pads in? or the sprint for the parking brake?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
yeah mercedes was no help; anyone that knows your calipers are these certain brands; how did you determine it? where did you see there little logo?
 

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1982 300CD
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I prefer ATE.
You could remove a pad and get an exact replacement at the parts store, or you can replace the caliper and get appropriate pads then.

(ATE put the logo on the round part, but it might be covered in grime.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
in all its glory ATE. I called mercedes and they wanted a half a tank of gas 38.54 something like that. was nice enough to give me the part number

001-586-73-43 ate (rear)

buying offline and twodaying it :p shows you to over charge me. im paying the same price probably but.....o well
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
ahhh i love america 32.45 for two kits with shipping. be here on friday from **********.com vs. mercedes benze 38.54 for one kit and i have to waste my gas 20-30miles to get to them. twice! onces to pay, and once to pick up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
i didnt know i wasnt allowed to name drop websites. umm well MBparts with a "buy" in front of that
 
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