en-em - 4/5/2005 5:05 PM
What rotor and brake pad combos do you guys have on your ML's, if any?? Any preferences or suggestions??
Generally, cross-drilled rotors should not be used on the track since they could warp or crack under the extreme heat they would be subjected to. For everyday driving, the holes do help dissipate heat, but primarily they allow air and gases to escape from the contact surface. If you are old enough to remember corporal punishment in school, were you ever on the receiving end of a “cross-drilled� paddle? It always hurt worse because it had no air cushion. That’s the principal here.Why are you guys spending extra for drilled rotors? Reports indicate that there is no improved braking off the race track. Just for the good looks?
I am about to do my rear brakes on my ML430. Probably Brembo solid rotors and Mintex (or possible Wagner) pads. I want original braking performance, same wear sensor function, low dust and no squealing. Not interested in extra hard pads. Is Mintex the way to go?
rudeney - 4/6/2005 2:32 PM
For everyday driving, the holes do help dissipate heat, but primarily they allow air and gases to escape from the contact surface.
You should not let hard pads bother you, though. While they may tend to squeal a little bit more than softer pads, keep in mind that it’s “normal� to have some squeal from all modern metallic pads.
- RODNEY
The rear pads on my 2001 ML320 use the encapsulated sensors, the fronts use the “exposed� sensors. My Rotex pads came with new sensors for the fronts, but not the rears. In fact, the rear pads did not even have a hole or mounting spot where I could have re-used the original sensors. Besides that, one of my front sensors was already to the rotor and not setting off the indicator, so I just left them off.I guess the brake sensors differ quite a bit between models. I got some ML320 sensors by mistake one order, and I'll compare the two here. The ML320 sensors work differently, riding along in the open air, waiting to hit the rotor.
The ML430 sensor actually goes into a hole inside the pad and waits to be distroyed by the rotor when the pad wears down and exposes it.
As for the cheese grater analogy, I could see that except that the surface of the drilled rotors is still flat. If anything, it could better help expel some of the dust, which would actually promote better wear and longer life for both the pad and rotor.I have heard that drilled rotors do absolutely nothing for normal street driving. A solution looking a problem as they say. Drilled rotor sales are most likely driven by appearances now that brake rotors are so visible through the current wheel styles.
What drilled rotors might do is wear the pads down faster. Think of a cheese grater and you get the idea.
Is is definitely NOT normal to have squealing brakes. My wife's 2000 C280 has zero squealing. Likewise with a 1989 S-class that I used to drive and even my 1990 Ford had silent brakes.
gwwaterman - 4/6/2005 9:05 PM
I guess the brake sensors differ quite a bit between models. I got some ML320 sensors by mistake one order, and I'll compare the two here. The ML320 sensors work differently, riding along in the open air, waiting to hit the rotor.
The ML430 sensor actually goes into a hole inside the pad and waits to be distroyed by the rotor when the pad wears down and exposes it.
Both of them make an electrical connection when the pad gets to a preset thickness, but I have to admit I like the encapsulated 430/55 version.
I don't know if all wheels on an ML320 get sensors, but my ML430 has sensors on all wheels and they are relatively cheap. But NO ONE sells them automatically with pads - you have to order them seperately. This is probably because they can be reused if you haven't already destroyed them when they did their job and told you that you needed brake work.