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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
During my most recent trip to the dealer (actually it's there now, and I'm tooling around in an '08 C300 Sport with 500 miles on it...nice little car), they told me I should be running 0W-40 or 0W-50 in my car because it is considered "high-performance". I was like Huh?

But anyway, I said "but this is Florida...it's 100 degrees out...you really think that's necessary?". I would have just dismissed this outright, but it was actually a tech talking to me and not the SA, so it made me think twice about my belief that thicker oil is always better, even at the low temp end, unless you live in Alaska or something...

So I pose these questions to you all:

What oil viscosity are you running, and why?

Have you noticed any changes when running different viscosities?

Also, for those of you who have fallen off the Mobil1 wagon (which I think I am about to do, if I can find a US dealer for Penrite, or I have heard good things about RoyalPurple), what are you running and how happy are you?

TIA

-Chris
 

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1996 SL320
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297 Posts
GOOD DAY I TO AM IN FLORIDA AND USE MOBIL 1 15W-50 SYNTHETIC BEST ENGINE PROTECTION IN WARM CLIMATES,
 

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2000 sl500 sport black with tan
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109 Posts
I live in Pa. and I use Mobil 1 0-40
The reason being it is what mercedes recomnends
They should know they build the engine
besides oil is so good now its not going to make it better by switching if you use a good brand.
I worked in industry for over 30 years and also raced cars and the only way
I seen failures due to oil was the lack of oil or never being changed!!!
just my 2 cents
 

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00 SL500 SOLD, 05 SL600 Sport, 09 Silverado 4x4 LTZ,SOLD '15Silverado LTZ 6.2 8Speed John Deere 318
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Chris, The topic of oil is as volitile a subject as there is!!! I will answer your question as best I can. I run 10-30 Mobil 1, only drive during the summer, 60-95 degrees, Oil is a very personal thing!!! It does a good job for me. Royal purple is a good product, I first heard about it at the track 10 or so years ago. As far as I know its a little hard to find. M-1 can be found anywhere. I guess I would sum it up by saying, It has always worked fine for me, and I will continue to use it. How would someone know if their oil was not working???? {before its to late}???
 

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1998 Pano SL500; 1993 SL500; 2005 ML270cdi
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Viscosity is easy to work out from your own geographical location, however oil quality is another matter.

aam will appreciate this axiom "Oil's cheap, engines ain't".
Never ever try to save a few pennies by buying cheap oil, those saved pennies will cost you thousands when you have to pay for major repairs to your engine.

I still find that Mobil 1 synthetic oil is the best that money can buy. When I first used this oil in a single cylinder Lister generator I could not believe that after hundreds of hours of use when I did the routine strip-down service, I could still see the original honing marks on the cylinder bore. Another testimony is when I poured a little on to an oil stone to sharpen a wood chisel, I couldn't get a proper metal to stone contact (try it).

The winter temperature here doesn't usually drop below 12ºC, and in summertime it can go over 40ºC so my Mobil 1 5W-50W covers every eventuality :thumbsup:
 

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Greek God of the R129
SL500-500SEL-190E
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8,559 Posts
Viscosity is easy to work out from your own geographical location, however oil quality is another matter.

aam will appreciate this axiom "Oil's cheap, engines ain't".
Never ever try to save a few pennies by buying cheap oil, those saved pennies will cost you thousands when you have to pay for major repairs to your engine.

I still find that Mobil 1 synthetic oil is the best that money can buy. When I first used this oil in a single cylinder Lister generator I could not believe that after hundreds of hours of use when I did the routine strip-down service, I could still see the original honing marks on the cylinder bore. Another testimony is when I poured a little on to an oil stone to sharpen a wood chisel, I couldn't get a proper metal to stone contact (try it).

The winter temperature here doesn't usually drop below 12ºC, and in summertime it can go over 40ºC so my Mobil 1 5W-50W covers every eventuality :thumbsup:

I hear you RedLiner.
I am running on 20W50
I would be very careful with big space oils, they have more additives in them.
The question one has to ask is, can you run on additives only?

It is in my nature to side track so I will not brake my tradition.

Some time a go doctors and of course manufacturers were saying that it is better to give
there formula milk to the babies, so most mothers were feeding formula to the poor babies.
Now with many studies after they found that the best milk is the original, better yet if he/she drinks it from the top.

This morning was in the news, babies who drink mothers milk are more intelligent.Ehehe.

Ok , ok I know we are talking about cars.

The engine needs oil......and some additives.
0W50 look at the space it has a lot of additives.

I am in California my car will never see cold.
And it is good from 0 degrees F to all the way up to hell.

Synthetic oil in an older engine, maybe yes, maybe no.

On this RL don't get me wrong, not in my engine.

Replace your oil more often your engine will thank you.
Synthetic or not.

I will say it one more time, sometimes I will replace the oil at 700 miles but not the filter.
Because of the time limit.

Remember it is always better to feed your baby from the tit.

No formula thanks.
No synthetic oil for my baby.

Regards.
aam.
 

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95 SL500, K&N, NEOKEN Ported TB, Custom Intake, RENNtech Sport Exhaust, AMG I Monoblocks
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10,980 Posts
15W40 Rotella T

Why?

1. Leith Mercedes-Benz Dealer in Raleigh, NC recommends Rotella T 15W40 for my 1995 SL500, and thats what they use.

2. 15W40 oils generally used for large hi-power, hi-temperature turbo-diesel applications for example; Rotella T SAE 15W40 Meets the performance requirements of: ACEA E7, Caterpillar ECF-1-A, ECF-2, ECF-3, Cummins CES 20081, Detroit Diesel 93K218, Mack, EO-O Premium plus 07, Man M3275, MBercedes Benz Approvals 228.3, 228.31, Volvo VDS-4.

3. Heavy Duty oil for a Heavy duty car.
 

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MB SL600, MB 380SE, Suzuki Grand Vitara, 38' Chris-Craft, Volvo V70XC, and my own two feet...
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I hear you RedLiner.
I am running on 20W50
I would be very careful with big space oils, they have more additives in them.
The question one has to ask is, can you run on additives only?

It is in my nature to side track so I will not brake my tradition.

Some time a go doctors and of course manufacturers were saying that it is better to give
there formula milk to the babies, so most mothers were feeding formula to the poor babies.
Now with many studies after they found that the best milk is the original, better yet if he/she drinks it from the top.

This morning was in the news, babies who drink mothers milk are more intelligent.Ehehe.

Ok , ok I know we are talking about cars.

The engine needs oil......and some additives.
0W50 look at the space it has a lot of additives.

I am in California my car will never see cold.
And it is good from 0 degrees F to all the way up to hell.

Synthetic oil in an older engine, maybe yes, maybe no.

On this RL don't get me wrong, not in my engine.

Replace your oil more often your engine will thank you.
Synthetic or not.

I will say it one more time, sometimes I will replace the oil at 700 miles but not the filter.
Because of the time limit.

Remember it is always better to feed your baby from the tit.

No formula thanks.
No synthetic oil for my baby.

Regards.
aam.
I wanted at least a 5W or 10W, but they talked me into this 0W. It does me no good anyway, I live in FLORIDA. When am I ever going to see temps that would make that remotely useful. Most mornings I will use the car, the car and everything else out will already be 90 degrees.

I think I will call them and tell them 10W30 if they haven't done the change already. Also, another poster mentioned that some of the specialty stuff like RoyalPurple isn't around everywhere like Mobil 1 is. That's a good point. Don't wana get stuck in B.F.E. and can't find what I need...some of the synthetics you can't mix together, so it's not like you can just add any old thing.
 

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Reminds me of a cute little saying, aam, JUST REMEMBER, If it has TITS or TIRES, Sooner or Later, It will give you TROUBLE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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Greek God of the R129
SL500-500SEL-190E
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I have used the 15W40
The new one is for all engines Gas and Diesels but I am a little skeptical.
I know they lowered the chemicals in it, but they can damage the catalytic converter in the long run.

So I don't want to take the gamble.

LOL.

I didn't forget.
Oh yes, about the TTs are trouble.
But a nice one.

Regards.
aam.
 

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1991 500SL
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I am up in Canada, only run the SL in the summer time. I have an Indy who was a mechanic at the local dealership, worked his way up to service manager and then retired to his own shop, working at his own pace. I am a Mobil 1 fan and told him I would bring in my own oil, but he nearly flipped when I suggested anything other than a 15w-50 in Mobil 1. He said the other lower viscosity oils in the Mobil 1 line do not meet the high temperature sheer specifications that Mercedes requires. He would have prefered that I run Amsoil, but I ended up sticking with my Mobil 1. I did find a couple articles backing up what he had been saying.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well they already had completed the oil change by the time I got ahold of them on Friday, so I guess I will have to live with 0W-50 (IIRC) or whatever it was for awhile. In 3000 miles I will probably switch to Amsoil or Royal Purple.

And aam is correct. Mobil1 just screwed up their own product line, trying to comply with an EPA suggestion, except for like two viscosities...IIRC 5W-50 and 15W-50. Those are the only two with the original sulphur contents remaining. Sulphur is an excellent lubricant, but can have adverse affects on a catalytic converter, so our wonderful government decided that it's a great idea to protect a sub-$1k part of the car at the expense of a $20k part of the car: The engine. So they lowered the max sulphur content allowed for general-use vehicles by a large margin. Makes sense to me...not.

Anyway, the Porsche guys have figured out that GM makes an engine assembly lube called EOS, which mixes well with Mobil1 and is basically all-sulphur. So they put a quart of that in along with their regular Mobil1 to replace the lost sulphur. There was a huge discussion about it on MBWorld awhile ago.

So anyway, I will see if I notice any sound differences from the 0W on startup.
 

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15w-40 is a great choice in hot climates. 50 weight is too thick even for the hottest weather, it'll just bog down the engine. HD oil like Rotella comes in a thick 10w-30 too, I would do a gallon of each.

A good 10w-40 High Miles like Pennzoil is also an excellent choice out to 6000 miles. Mix it down with 30 weight to flavor, I'm doing about half and half.

Two short changes is better than one long change. There's no substitute for physically draining out contaminates, excess fuel, condensed water and oil oil mixed and warmed, yuk.
 

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1996 SL320 White/Gray
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15w 50 Rotella (non synthetic) for me also. Up in Canada but my SL is a summer only car. :grin
 

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R129 500 SL 1991
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...the other lower viscosity oils in the Mobil 1 line do not meet the high temperature sheer specifications that Mercedes requires...
I completely agree. And this is not just for the high performance Mercs. My old trusty 190D 2.5 diesel really gives oil a hard time when it gets warmed up too.

There is a simple objective test to prove your point. Fill your baby up with a cheap lower viscosity oil. Something around 0w-40 0w-30 and run it for a week or two, going for a short gentle drives, warming the engine up to around 85 deg C. Check the oil pressure at idle, which will probably be around 2 bar. Then go for a long(ish) hard blast down the freeway (200+ miles). Drive around again gently to let the oil temperature settle back down to normal operating (~85 deg C). Park up and check oil pressure at idle again. All of a sudden it will probably be quite a bit lower than 2 bar because (assuming its not dilution from overfuelling) the stress from the long drive has sheared some of the long chain oil molecules and made the oil thinner i.e. less viscous. You don't want this. This is bad.

Albert made a very good point about the space in the oil. Oil companies use polymer additives to extend the range of the oil (in case of 0w-40 the range is 40, 0w-30 range is 30 and so on), and 0w-40 oils have been known to be the worst for problems caused by the overuse of additives, resulting in shortened oil life, and in some cases excessive engine wear and sticking piston rings.

With Mobil 15w-50, 10w-50 and 10w-60 you shouldn't get a noticeable drop off in viscosity idle oil pressure over time.

Give the test a try. I let you decide.
 

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I have been using Mercedes USA own oil, which is synthetic 5w-40. Was told it was made for them by Mobil 1. Have used Mobil 1 for years. Synthetic oils hold up far better with lower viscosity than conventional oils.

When I got the car I could hear a lifter ticking - now driving it regularly with my oil has eliminated the ticking.
 

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1994 SL320
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I use 10-40. I've 8L of Petronas on the shelf waiting for the next oil change, purchased earlier in the year when on offer from a famous online seller. :smile
 

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R129 500 SL 1991
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I use 10-40. I've 8L of Petronas on the shelf waiting for the next oil change, purchased earlier in the year when on offer from a famous online seller. :smile
Hi Richard, that Petronas Syntium semi is very cheap at £16 ($20) for 4L. But it almost feels too cheap to put in my SL. But then again, it may be the most best kept secret. Am I am torn? Not sure. mmmmmm... :confused:

Should I put this in my sweet baby? :baby bottle:
 

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