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Next time, just disconnect the sway bar at the control arm and you'll have the needed extra travel. It's suggested to position the plates with 5 coils in-between.

Jayare

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Taking off the shock nuts is way easier, especially with an impact wrench. I've done both. I had at least 5 coils, and still had to have the coils in bind. I have an S600 coupe, with one of the heavier duty springs, so that may make a difference.
 

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I'd advise having the compressor on the spring before you remove the strut mount nut if that's isn't what your already doing/done. I find the front sway bar link on 140's much easier to deal with.

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I'd advise having the compressor on the spring before you remove the strut mount nut if that's isn't what your already doing/done. I find the front sway bar link on 140's much easier to deal with.

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It's done. Removing the shock upper nuts is the WIS factory procedure, step one, exactly as I stated it. Check WIS and see.
 

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Easiest way the worked for me was to jack up the control arm to compress the spring then install the compressors to take the tension and then lower down the arm
 

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Gave it the best gift I could, DROVE it 400 miles, the longest single drive distance I have since I got it running again. Averaged about 17mpg in a mix of interstate and 4 love, non-limited access highways, pretty good for an S600 coupe. Will finish up the drive with another 300 or so miles tomorrow.

The drive was made much better by a Hunter Road Force wheel/tire balancing I had done a couple of days ago. Super smooth at the 65 to 85 mph speeds I was driving. This balancing took out the remainder of any vibration I had after adjusting my front wheel bearings a few weeks ago. Well worth the $100 it cost.
 

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CL600: New wiper blades, change diff oil, swapped the drivers side mirror to a convex type.

Also swapped the newer airbag from the S500 into the S600, it's dated year 2000 & has the silver star in the center from factory.

Also made up some flagpoles. Easy to swap them onto whatever car but here they are on the S500:
 

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Refurbished Front Grille

I finally finished my front grille. The black plastic had faded to a gray, and several of the chrome strips were bent and coming off, per the first photo. Removing the grille was easy, as it's attached via several bolts, and the grille pops right out. You then need to remove one screw from the top and then some slips. That will separate the chrome frame from the plastic grille itself. At that point, you can work the chrome strips off. I've been collecting the best chrome strips that I can find off of wrecked W140s from the junk yard, and you can see them in the photo with the spray cans. As you can tell in the final picture, I was not successful in getting the chrome strips to look like new. They are aluminum covered in chrome, and sanding removes the chrome....quickly. I therefore just tried cleaning them as well as I could. For the plastic grille, I sanded it lightly wet sanded with 400 grit paper. I then primered it, wet sanded it with 800 grit, and then painted it with Rustoleum Matte finish black. When you are sliding the chrome strips back on, you need to be careful as it catches the new paint. If you don't immediately remove the paint and keep sliding, your going to noticeably remove additional paint. To top the grille off, I added a metal and porcelain Mercedes badge that I got off a wrecked S500.
 

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S500: Engine oil & filter change at 200,000kms & swapped back to 16" 6 spoke "Gildun" wheels. Afterwards I took it for a test drive and it developed a brake line leak on front RHS. It's late here now so I'll take a look tomorrow to work out exactly why the line failed & begin replacement of both sides. I have new replacements here on hand.
 

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Which lights did you go with? Please post photos! bought some but I thought they didn’t look OEM enough and returned them. They were a little too “chromey” looking and they had clear plastic where you could see the bulbs. I have a 1998 with the pinkish problem and water leak. Opened it up and tried to paint it chrome silver but it doesn’t match. Everyone I find at the junkyard has same problem. I noticed that there was a year or two (95-96?) where the lights had yellow on top, instead of clear, and the bottom of these is normally in perfect shape. I’ve considered replacing mine with these but it would not be correct on the car. Whoever manufactured the 97-99 OEM taillights did a terrible job.
 

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Forgot to mention I picked up some cool stuff from a 1999 S500 at the Oakland CA Picknpull on Saturday but haven’t installed yet. Real wooden steering wheel, grille with six chrome slays and working cup holder.
 

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Which lights did you go with? Please post photos! bought some but I thought they didn’t look OEM enough and returned them. They were a little too “chromey” looking and they had clear plastic where you could see the bulbs. I have a 1998 with the pinkish problem and water leak. Opened it up and tried to paint it chrome silver but it doesn’t match. Everyone I find at the junkyard has same problem. I noticed that there was a year or two (95-96?) where the lights had yellow on top, instead of clear, and the bottom of these is normally in perfect shape. I’ve considered replacing mine with these but it would not be correct on the car. Whoever manufactured the 97-99 OEM taillights did a terrible job.
Pic added to my above post, branded Depo.
 

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Which lights did you go with? Please post photos! bought some but I thought they didn’t look OEM enough and returned them. They were a little too “chromey” looking and they had clear plastic where you could see the bulbs. I have a 1998 with the pinkish problem and water leak. Opened it up and tried to paint it chrome silver but it doesn’t match. Everyone I find at the junkyard has same problem. I noticed that there was a year or two (95-96?) where the lights had yellow on top, instead of clear, and the bottom of these is normally in perfect shape. I’ve considered replacing mine with these but it would not be correct on the car. Whoever manufactured the 97-99 OEM taillights did a terrible job.
Those would be the 'crystal' type ones like my car came with, yeah they look bling and out of place. Originals on mine were orange on top for the indicator but a painted them red as i think its looked better and didn't want to buy aftermarket ones. Mine are slightly pinkish but not bad enough to warrant replacement.
 

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S500: replaced the slightly scratchy center rear view mirror speaker & sorted out the rattles coming from the rear view mirror itself.
 

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Must be one of the highest V12's on there? One here at a pick a part yard that made it to 389,000km.

I will always believe internally they have the best potential longevity out of all W140's engines without being opened, the problem all is the external $ bits which send them to an early grave.
 
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