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'95 S600
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419 Posts
I thought pulling the manifold was quite easy, all the fasteners are easy to reach but its just time consuming due to 12 cylinders. I just worked in prone position on the manifold with feet resting on a bench for most of it, no strain on the back etc.
 

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'99 S420 116K
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1,376 Posts
I Got My Baby Back!

My '99 S420 developed a miss in the engine last week. :crybaby2:

O'Reilly's kindly put the OBDII reader on and it was #1 cylinder, located on the front passenger side of the engine. O'Reilly's wanted $90 plus freight for a coil, I got it online for $54 free shipping from German Auto Parts in Tennessee.

The replacement took all of 30 min, pop the engine covers, 3 bolts for the coil/spark plug cover, two bolts for the coil bracket, pop off the wiring harness fitting, pull the bad coil, put the new one on, and replace the covers. Almost as easy as changing a light bulb. :shit not:

I pulled the spark plug while I was in there, it was gorgeous despite the misfire for the last 5 miles of service.

I now have my loved one back on the road and I'm thrilled! :devil

She'll get washed today, and I'll be at the Hooters Cruise-In Saturday night livin' the life.
 

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Premium Member
'99 S420 116K
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1,376 Posts
Soft Close Door And Trunk Issue

I had an "Aw Sh8t" moment with my '99 S420 recently. About 6 months ago the driver's door stopped soft closing. Then last month the trunk stopped working properly. :dunno:

After some labored research, and thanks to this forum I found a quick fix.

There is a fuse panel in the trunk, passenger side, behind a 8"X 8" cover.
Pull #9 fuse, start the vehicle, turn it off, replace the fuse.
This resets the pump under the back seat that controls the soft close features.

Apparently when the pump senses 2 failures at a door or the trunk, it turns off the feed to that door or trunk. The reset seems to work so far(2 weeks), but just last evening the front passenger door failed. So I'll try the reset trick today, and hopefully all will be well again. :thumbsup:
 

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1994 S600 Coupe, 1995 S600 Coupe
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1,711 Posts
I had an "Aw Sh8t" moment with my '99 S420 recently. About 6 months ago the driver's door stopped soft closing. Then last month the trunk stopped working properly. :dunno:



After some labored research, and thanks to this forum I found a quick fix.



There is a fuse panel in the trunk, passenger side, behind a 8"X 8" cover.

Pull #9 fuse, start the vehicle, turn it off, replace the fuse.

This resets the pump under the back seat that controls the soft close features.



Apparently when the pump senses 2 failures at a door or the trunk, it turns off the feed to that door or trunk. The reset seems to work so far(2 weeks), but just last evening the front passenger door failed. So I'll try the reset trick today, and hopefully all will be well again.
If you keep doing that, eventually you will burn out the pump. The fix is to adjust the shut off pressure of the pump, so that the pump doesn't run as long. Running long is what triggers the diabling. The adjustment procedure is on page 5 of the attachment. Not hard to do. View attachment CloseAssistRepair.pdf
 

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Premium Member
'99 S420 116K
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1,376 Posts
A Dangerous Procedure

If you keep doing that, eventually you will burn out the pump. The fix is to adjust the shut off pressure of the pump, so that the pump doesn't run as long. Running long is what triggers the diabling. The adjustment procedure is on page 5 of the attachment. Not hard to do. View attachment 2516658
I appreciate your response, I'm certain you are correct about the pump running too long and disabling the soft close.:thumbsup:

I read about this problem extensively, and I concluded that the pump adjustment was just too dangerous to attempt. If you booger up those nipples on the pump, it's new pump time. I carefully looked at those hoses and nipples and decided there is no SAFE way to remove those hoses to get to the cover to make the adjustment. At some point in the future I may perform this adjustment, we'll see.

I suspect my problem possibly arises from the intense HEAT we experience here in Florida. I cannot garage my vehicle, so it bakes in the sun. :eek:
 

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1994 S600 Coupe, 1995 S600 Coupe
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1,711 Posts
I appreciate your response, I'm certain you are correct about the pump running too long and disabling the soft close.



I read about this problem extensively, and I concluded that the pump adjustment was just too dangerous to attempt. If you booger up those nipples on the pump, it's new pump time. I carefully looked at those hoses and nipples and decided there is no SAFE way to remove those hoses to get to the cover to make the adjustment. At some point in the future I may perform this adjustment, we'll see.



I suspect my problem possibly arises from the intense HEAT we experience here in Florida. I cannot garage my vehicle, so it bakes in the sun. :eek:
I've removed and replaced both the PSE and soft close pumps, and never broken a nipple. Both cars I've got are southern, so there seen plenty of heat. The key is to get a thin end wrench between the fitting and the pump body, so as to force the fitting straight up, and not bend it and the nipple. You will be out a lot of money if you burn up the motor in the soft close pump, unless you find a good used one.
 

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Premium Member
'99 S420 116K
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1,376 Posts
Time Is Always A Factor

I've removed and replaced both the PSE and soft close pumps, and never broken a nipple. Both cars I've got are southern, so there seen plenty of heat. The key is to get a thin end wrench between the fitting and the pump body, so as to force the fitting straight up, and not bend it and the nipple. You will be out a lot of money if you burn up the motor in the soft close pump, unless you find a good used one.
At the time I investigated this pump issue, I was somewhat panicked about the trunk not completely closing. :eek: I wanted a quick solution. When I looked at the pump and what it would require to remove the hoses I didn't want to possibly make matters worse. I had read about the hazards, old plastic, broken nipples, $400 pump... the fuse thing seemed like the best solution at the moment.

If I find this to be a recurring issue, I definitely will try the screw adjustment, I just didn't want to attempt it that day given my circumstance.

Thank you for your excellent advice and 14 pages of info about this pump and it's functions. :teach: I posted this info to hopefully save others some time researching this issue when they are in a panic as I was. You offered the true repair advise and I thank you. I spent at least 2 hours reading up on this before I made my decision.

Now if you can fix my wonky rear view mirror, the driver's seat belt retractor, the cupholder in the armrest, the slight thunking from the right rear suspension at low speed, freshen the paint on the lower cladding, R&R the antenna mast, install my metal oil caps for the camshafts with new valve cover gaskets(while yer in there R&R the timing chain guides), and restore all 4 wheels for me, I'll be even happier. I don't have too long a list of to-do's but it's enough to keep me busy. :wink_2:
 

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1994 S600 Coupe, 1995 S600 Coupe
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1,711 Posts
If your driver's seatbelt doesn't retract properly, clean the seatbelt. I pulled mine out to it's full length, put a clip at the top to keep it from retracting, filled a bowl full of full strength Purple Power, and soaked the belt in it for a couple of hours, agitating occasionally. You wouldn't believe the crap that came out of it. I then used bowls full of clean water to rinse it several times, then squeezed as much water out as I could, and let it dry. Did both front belts. Both are now much more flexible, and retract completely, where neither did before.

The other option if you have a pressure washer, is to stretch the belt outside the car, shut the door on it, and blast both sides. Generally, you can see the belt change color as you wash junk out.

25 years of dirt and body oils build up and stiffen the belts. I was amazed at the difference.
 

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Premium Member
1999 S600 & 1999 S500
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803 Posts
I've removed and replaced both the PSE and soft close pumps, and never broken a nipple. Both cars I've got are southern, so there seen plenty of heat. The key is to get a thin end wrench between the fitting and the pump body, so as to force the fitting straight up, and not bend it and the nipple. You will be out a lot of money if you burn up the motor in the soft close pump, unless you find a good used one.
Buy a set of the interior plastic pry bars from Harbor Freight. They are yellow. There is one that looks like a slanted two teeth pry bar. Pops those hoses off easily. Just be gentle.
 

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1999 S600
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212 Posts
New bushings all the way around

Picked up the car yesterday after getting all new bushings, This difference is actually quite noticeable, smoother, quieter, better turn in. It was expensive, but given may lack of time, shop, lift and tools, i feel like it was worth it. Drives/rides like new again.
 

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1999 S600
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212 Posts
new dr. side door check, seat (leather) repair, door panel repair

Had a guy come out and work on the seats for several hours. Nowhere near as good as a proper reupholstery job but sufficient for now...

Glued the busted tabs, etc back onto the door car w gorilla glue.

Installed driver side door check.

Next (for this projectF): order new vapor barrier if I can find one, otherwise it's the old shower curtain and gorilla tape hack. And sort out the window regulator. And then the same on the passenger side (minus the regulator).
 

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1999 S600
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212 Posts
ordered a new blower motor regulator (KAE Kaehler)

This is like my 3rd one and apparently the Behr ones are garbage..

These are supposed to be the best ones..

P/N: 1408218351 Kaehler (KAE)
 

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1999 S600
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212 Posts
door resembled and some window discoveries

Finally got the door back together last night and as I suspected, the beltline trim on the driver side door was worn to smooth and "sticking" to the window. The "fuzzy" part that keeps it from sticking to the window had been worn away.

I sanded the smoothed/worn surfaces with 200 grit sandpaper and it was a marked improvement, gotta order new beltline trims for exterior and interior.

I also lubed the $#it out of the internal mechanisms and rails with heavy duty silicone lubricant. ON a scale from 1-10, 1 being non-op and 10 being new, I'd give it a solid 8 now.
 

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1999 S600
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212 Posts
KAE blower regulator installed this morning. The difference in quality from the Behr unit is obvious. Plus I now have climate control that hast temperature adjustments other than raging inferno and polar vortex.
 

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Premium Member
1999 S600 & 1999 S500
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803 Posts
KAE blower regulator installed this morning. The difference in quality from the Behr unit is obvious. Plus I now have climate control that hast temperature adjustments other than raging inferno and polar vortex.
I believe the KAE is the one I used to replace the bad one. This one had a copper base plate which is a much better heat sink. I hope you used the thermal paste to mount the new unit. I think mine was about $75-80. The Behr is a POS.
 

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1999 S600
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212 Posts
I believe the KAE is the one I used to replace the bad one. This one had a copper base plate which is a much better heat sink. I hope you used the thermal paste to mount the new unit. I think mine was about $75-80. The Behr is a POS.
yeah, that's the one. It came with some goop already on it... This one was just under $120 from pelican or autohauz, dont recall..
 
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